Tips for Replacing Rear Hard Brake Line on Frame

Another option, although more expensive, is would be stainless braided -3AN soft lines. Cut to length, and add fittings.

 

At around $8.00 a foot I could see this becoming a $500.00 plus job cause if your starting to use 3 AN hose and fitting may as well do the complete system

 

Definitely not cheaper. It is just another option.

 

Hello all, looking to replace my 2005 driver side and passenger side rear steel lines as they are rusting. They connect to below drum brake bleeder.
Looking at this diagram, can someone verify if these are the parts I need? 47328-04020 and 47327-04060.
http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/us...9W/powertrain-chassis/4708_brake-tube-clamp/1

Thanks in advance.

 

bringing back from the dead

I have to replace the same line as well as all the lines on the driver side too. Question about the line with part number 47315. I’m going to bend my own with copper/nickel.
Do I have to curl the line like the oem one? I don’t know why they would make it like that

 

It allows the lines to flex or expand and contract. Since one end of it comes off the master and is then mounted to the frame, if it were just a straight tube it would eventually crack/break due to the movement between the body and the frame.

 

I had to replace that hard brake line as well (#5 line) and was able to get it overnight to the dealer for about $73. 2008 Ext Cab 2.7 MT 4WD

A few comments and tips for anyone who comes across this thread in the future. My line leaked right above the connection to the rubber hose. i had the brake light come on (a familiar sight after having my clutch master cylinder leak shortly after buying the truck. The clutch and brake use the same reservoir) and filled it up but couldn't find a leak. A couple days later I found the fluid pissing out, clearly coming from the hard line to rubber line union. Crawling under the truck behind the Left rear wheel gives enough of a view to see this without too much trouble.

Make sure you have your 10mm flare wrench. I had my regular wrench and one I bought at Advance (where I got the rubber hose.. if you go this route, don't forget to ask for the retainer clips as well. The original ones are likely to be ruined/rusted if you live anywhere where it rains and snows.

The rubber hoses are a PITA. Getting the old ones out and then putting the new ones in are equally obnoxious. Take care to undo fittings BEFORE taking the rubber lines off the mounts. When putting them back on, due to rust and the forces involved in getting them off, the hose did not align (and it must align exactly if you have any hope of getting the retaining clips on them).

I was able to get all the fittings off with a little liquid wrench and care aside from the hose to the line I was replacing.. I just cut the line since I was replacing it. Take extra care with removal. If the fitting rusts to the line, you can twist the hard line which will mean more line replacements. Since the hard line from the new hose to the wheel cylinder (Right side was the one I was replacing) was pretty accessible and since the fitting came off with a little careful wiggling, I did not replace it at this time.

Take care with tracing the lines. Even though I thought I was taking care I still mixed up which line was which at the junction under the drivers side door and ended up taking the wrong one off which made the job longer than it had to be. On my truck, the LR line was on the bottom at the junction, the RR line was on the top. I used a bolt to plug the junction between taking the old line out and putting the new line in. This seemed to work OK.

Yes - you have to drop the gas tank to have any hope of getting the OEM pre-bent line in there. You can probably route a line if you're willing to have a wonky "home routed" line.
As the OP noted, even with the gas tank FULLY removed from the truck, and in my case, with the bed lifted at least 3.5" off the frame (I had one bolt on the opposite side of the bed that wouldn't budge), routing the 6' long hard line required a lot of bending and swearing.

One thing that was interesting was the number of clips holding the line in. If I could go back in time, I'd drop the tank fully before removing the old line. The retaining clips are numerous and difficult to access with the tank in the way.

On removing the gas tank, there are 2 bolts that connect to the straps. On the other end are pin hinges with cotter pin clips on them. My truck was sufficiently rusted that there was no hope of removing the pins. I had success with buying longer bolts.. this was helpful in both removing the tank and re-installing.

Despite the low amount of fuel in the tank (less than 1/4 tank) and a couple of different siphon pumps, it was not simple to drain enough gas out of the tank to make it manageable. Lowering the tank using the longer bolts trick, you will need to remove the filler neck. This was easy enough but requires removing the plastic splash guard in the right rear wheel area. There are a number of 10mm/philips head trim bolts and some plastic retainer clips. Take care with these, I couldn't find suitable replacements at my local Ace hardware.

The filler neck has no attachment at the gas door. Remove the gas cap and once the splash guard is out, there are 3 hoses. 1 worm gear style clamp, 1 squeeze clamp and one fuel line style. The fuel line quick connect is basically just sliding the locking part to "open" then squeezing the sides. Remove the filler assembly as a unit by undoing the 12mm bolt on the clamp and the whole thing comes out fairly easily.

Once this is done, there's a single hose you can reach and squeeze the sides. There are a number of YouTube videos that I found that show these.

I did get gasoline in my eye trying to remove the 2 lines at the front of the tank. There's a plastic cover that pulls right off then there are 2 quick connectors, one with the lock that you need to slide up first, the other just squeeze. Squeezing these was kind of a pain, which is how I got some gas in my eye.

There's a plastic cover over the fuel pump that was surprisingly tough to get off. You have to get it at just the right point and it will pull off. I can't recall exactly what that was, but just try it a number of ways and it will come off.

It feels like the wiring harness and connector for the fuel pump didn't have as much slack as it actually does. You should have enough slack on that line to drop the tank enough to get BOTH your hands on the connector from the back side (around the driveshaft). I watched a very good video on fuel pump removal that showed the connector (it's on there very tight) and the guy noted he was going to remove the driveshaft -- you do NOT have to remove the driveshaft. I was able to use a small screwdriver to push the tab on the connector while working it with my other hand... mostly by feel... and get the connector off. This was frustrating enough that I did seriously consider cutting the wires... had I known I was OK to drop the tank a bit more to get both hands on the connector, this would have been a bit easier.

Once the tank is off, I was able to get a fluid transfer pump hose into the tank at the filler neck hose and pump about 4 gallons of gas out of the tank. This wasn't all of it, but it was enough to manipulate the tank.

Installation was the reverse. It took me a lot longer than 15min though and there were all the normal frustrations with aligning/connecting the hard line at the top of the union of hard line to rubber hose (and of course, this was due to the bending the line to get it around the frame parts... but extra frustrating because the angle of the line is something you SHOULD get when you buy the OEM pre-bent hose).

The gas straps are flexible enough to bend a bit... it took a bit to reinstall the rubber pads between the strap and tank. Take care to align the tank to the straps before lifting it up.

Finally bleeding. I was highly concerned that opening the bleeders at both the wheel cylinders and not seeing a stronger flow of brake fluid meant a major problem. (Did I mention my master cylinder drained out while I did this... my mistake obviously), but I gravity bled both sides and then it was just a lot of bleeding.

I debated whether I should replace the other hard line while I had the tank out. I chose not to based on the fact I'd have to bend the crap out of the "pre-bent" line and fight with another set of rubber hose clips. We'll see if that was the right choice.

Most of my trouble was never having done this before and not having a good feel for getting the various connections apart.

It was, however, all done with the truck at it's stock height and while parked on my dirt driveway. I expect doing this in a garage with a level cement floor with a wheeled jack would have made it easier.