Tire Load Ratings

Prove it and I will prove it's useful.

 

Thanks everyone for the advice. I ended up ordering the BFG AT/KO2. Should be here mid-next week. This is my 6th set so I know what they ride like. Just making sure I wasn't missing out on something else.

 

Inflate P and euro metric tires to 2,149 lbs.
Inflate LT tires to 1,954 lbs.
PSI don't mean shit on it's own; it's just a means to the above mentioned end.

 

Prove what? That your chalk nonsense is nothing more than a gimmick? I don't think there is anything to prove. Simple logic should tell you that it is pointless. There is nothing scientific to it. Let me get you going with the obvious. You do realize that a tire does not maintain the same shape at 10 miles per hour as it does at 60, right? I mean you can't argue with science. Deflection of the contact patch occurs as you go faster. There is no way you can account for that in your shade tree method. Let's pretend that you could, you then can't account for the fact that your contact patch in a steel belted radial tire remains pretty across a pretty vast air pressure range. I could go on, but there really is no point. I'm sorry, but science isn't on your side and your chalk test is a total waste of time an effort.

 

Also...
-There's no concern for longitudinal footprint, which reacts more to psi changes than lattitudinal footprint.

-A square shoulder all-terrain is going have a more definitive edge, than a round shoulder highway tire.

-Manufacturers do not list tread width; though, some online places like Tire Rack, do measure it and include it in the specs.

-It doesn't account for dynamic loading of the tire.

-The chalk method as performed by the vast majority of users, is a dumbed-down, abbreviated version of the chalk test.

"Start by finding a flat road surface. Concrete is actually the best choice, but you can also do this on asphalt. Make a mark with soft chalk that goes all the way across your tread. Then, gradually drive your truck forward about 50 feet and then backwards 50 feet.

Analyze the chalk on the tire. If the chalk is only worn off on the center of the tire, reduce the tire pressure slightly and go through the process again. With the adjustment, you should see the chalk wear off more broadly. Keep making tiny adjustments in the tire pressure until the chalk wears off evenly and all the way across the tread.

You will have to complete this process for each of your four tires. Once you’ve found the right street pressure, add 10% to all four tires. Then, measure the tires and add pressure to balance them. You need to measure from the wheel to the ground. Start by balancing the profiles of the front tires with each other. Then, balance the front tires again with the rear tires. Always adjust the tires with the smaller profiles by adding air.

If you go through the process correctly, you end up with the ideal tire pressure. But, this method is tedious and there’s a reasonable chance that you will make a mistake.

 

This will show you the correct pressure based on GAWR. I know a lot of folks will run less pressure than this recommends on LT tires, but this is the safest way.

 

Should have gotten the C Load Duratracs! 265/75/16 6 Ply. Perfect tire for a mid size truck!

 

No need to point out facts. This guy is going to show us that the science is wrong!

I'm laughing at the official chalk test. That is the first version that I have seen that you drive forward and backward! How in the world could you possibly keep the steering wheel straight? I like how it is more complicated than the normal nonsense. I guess if you complicate it more then it has to produce a more exact result, right? I think if you turn your turn signals on to counter act the air balance at max velocity while feathering the horn, you will get it perfect.

 

so much mythinformation.......

Just shaking my head.....

 

Good work around answer.....statement given with no discernable information of value to the question.

 

Yeah, I know shame on me for not spoon feeding you an answer and giving you the information needed for you to make an educated decision. Unfortunately I am just a tw contributor and not your mother.

 

not everyone drives their Tacoma standing still posing for a pic, though.

i get the point, but some of us cannot get the truck to perform as it's capable on soft bubblegum tires. a low compliance very firm (E) tire is exactly right for my truck's setup. i fought with C and SL tires at various pressures for months before finally getting what the truck needed. different strokes... i don't ride around at low speeds with loads in the back; my truck sees high speeds and high loads from how i drive it at speed, and soft tires are actually risky for my typical driving scenario. try weight-shifting hard into LT/SL/C tires at 85 and tell me how it goes. E's are no problem there.

just saying there is not one way. on the other hand, i have modified a lot and the tires are simply a part of the equation, not the whole story. for what it's worth, not here to argue a point.

 

I have the same tires at 35psi, no issues

 

C vs Es is getting comical on here. And now we have a mod helping with the cornfusion.

E's are NOT just for hauling. This easy looking little 19th century wagon trail would take out a C rated tire in the blink of an eye.....just from that little drop off you see in the front of pic. In fact, the 5-10+ miles of traversing dry creek beds and jagged rocks would most likely keep C loads from enjoying this view of Guale mesa. They'd be changing a flat around a few sketchy corners for sure.

And yes, fingers crossed now I'm not jinxing myself on my upcoming trip on my E tires.

 

30 psi for my LT Open Country AT III

 

When I worked for a logging contractor all of the crummies (3/4 ton or more p.u. and vans) had load range E, 10 ply rated tires capable of 80psi. Since we mostly traveled on gravel logging roads at fairly high speeds we ran 48psi. Not for ride comfort but to reduce the chance of a flat tire.

 

Aren't the OP's original questions.....
"Do I really need E rated tires?"
"If not, what are the other options?"


YOU probably don't need the E rated tires. Most people don't need E unless they are pushing a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. The Tacomas only weigh about 4500 lbs with a max cargo capacity of 1000 lbs. If you have added a pile of weight to the truck in mods (ie skid plates, sliders, bumpers, winch......etc) then you have a different weight situation, but still limited by the GVWR.

I'd suggest looking at a set of Michelin LTX AT/2 tires or similar. Inflate to pressure on the driver's door placard. Adjust from that point after driving for a bit.

Ignore what the "bros" in your herd say.