Tires too heavy?

Same. Non LT Cooper AT3 4S - tow regularly and have even had a 3/8" bolt stab through one. Patched up just fine after being driven on for probably 40 miles or more.

Have witnessed small tree stumps tear trough E-rated sidewalls on a Jeep JK at Rausch Creek. That my C-rated tires passed by just fine. If it's your day to lose a tire, doesn't matter what the rating is.

 

Just moment of inertia stuff...it's all about where on the radius the mass is placed.
Given equal mass, the object with higher moment of inertia, requires that mass travel a greater distance.

 

Exactly "rotational inertia" here additionally explains why Negative-offset wheels, where the mass has moved outboard of the "axis of rotation", increases the 'load' and energy required by the drivetrain to move the same mass located inboard.

OR the Tacomaworld™ Daily-Double!

"What is Newton's 2nd Law?" for $1000, Alex

Splitbolt, youre a Top-tier guy if it hasnt been said before.

 

Might be a little late for this thread but I’d like to jump on with a question. My stock Tacoma came with 245/75r16 tires at 36# and steelies at 33# making it a total of 69#. I just got some E rated tires at 50# and some wheels at 24# so that’s 74# total. The difference between each stock and new set up is 5#. How much more of an affect would this have on my truck. I don’t see how 5 more pounds on each tire would make such a difference.

 

You will not notice any difference unless you went with some super aggressive mud terrains. You will notice a harsher ride though, keep in mind E loads require more Psi to hold the weight of the taco. I would run them at 35-36 psi minimum.

 

Thab

Thank you for the advice on pressure. My tires are the dick cepek exp 265/75/16. How do you think the truck will perform though? It is a 2.7L.....LOL

 

Yeah those are a bit aggressive. With the 4 banger you will notice a slight mpg hit and I think it might feel a bit more sluggish. The 4 cyl is already a bit underpowered IMO, bulletproof engine though.

Let us know how it goes and good luck!

 

I will do! No idea if I should exchange for a lighter tire. My stock tire combo was 69# and now I’m at 74# so not much difference.

 

I would say it’s not so much the tire, but the thread pattern. It has more rolling resistance than A/T tire in the same size. I would honestly try to find a C Load, I know there is not much choice in 16” size. I ran E loads and C loads, C loads are way smoother and lighter, I’ll never go to e load unless I’m aired down and rock crawling 24/7. I am on a 17” rim though, so lots of choice there.

Do you off-road much? You can always go SL and actually have less unsprung weight than the stock set up.

Those are a hybrid tire so not as aggressive as M/T, but I wouldn’t go that route unless I’m spending a lot of time off-road. The do look cool though!

 

I just posted this. You may find it interesting for your situation.

How Heavier Wheels and Tires Impact Braking Distance - Beefed Up Brakes

Found this article that will help you estimate the impact on braking performance from larger wheels/tires. In my case, if I increase from the stock 265/70 R16 to 265/75 R16 I gain about 1 inch in diameter and 5 more pounds per wheel. By their calculation that would reduce braking system performance by about 5% - or stopping distance would increase by 5%. It comes out to about 3% from the radius increase and 2% for the weight increase. I assume acceleration would suffer a similar amount.

Their rule-of-thumb is that X% increase in radius will reduce brake performance by an equal X%. For weight it is 1% more stopping distance per extra 10 lbs of weight at the wheels.

 

I do go off-road but I don’t rock crawl or any of that. I’m still unsure on what to do

 

Very good insight

 

Don’t assume just because it’s a C tire it’s going to be lighter. For instance the Ridge Grappler in a C load weighs right at 58 pounds yet the Duratrac in the same size but in a E load weighs right at 55 pounds. Every tire is different and you should be looking at the actual weight of the tire not just the load rating if your worried about the weight.

Another example would be the Cooper XLT 285/75r16 tire’s I’m currently running. They weigh just under 54 pounds each yet the Wildpeak A/T3w in the same size and load weighs over 60 pounds each. Paying attention just to the load rating doesn’t really tell you anything about the actual weigh of a tire. There’s light and heavy E load tires as there is heavy and light C load tires.

 

That’s what I’m saying ! My load E cepeks weigh 50# which isn’t bad at all for a load E when the wild peaks at3 where 46# in SL.... i Believe. Might as well keep my tires. I’ve got 24# wheels

 

I have never done well with taking advice and prefer to see things for myself. While 5lbs doesn't sound like much and in reality it is because you have to remember that your tires spin. Try this - Get something around a pound or so and tie it to a few feet of rope. Make sure you tie it tight. Start spinning the weight, then try to spin it as fast as you can. That 1 pound starts to feel a lot heavier, doesn't it? Imagine what happens the faster you go. A 33 is turning roughly 600 revolutions a minute at 60mph. That doesn't include the extra force from the oscillation of your suspension from road imperfections.

 

I’m part of the wild peak fan club here ( 265 75 R16 AT3 W Eload). Had them out twice and they took a beating. Glad they are E load.

that’s just 1 tire I could go around and take more photos of less obvious damage. But I like to think if I had a thinner tire she’d be gone. Other than that though they handled everything I could throw at them on a very wide variety of terrains

 

I have e loads that’s I’m about to put on a 2.7

 

preach it, man. this is a truth too often lost in here.

 

That’s a good point yes, C loads ride much better than E loads though.

 

I did it guys ! 265/75R16 E rated ! Look incredible.