To LSD or not LSD

Own a 2001 2.7L 4x4 with 183K. Very well maintained and owned since 2005. Thinking I need better traction when I go on trails or up hills etc.

This is mostly a daily driver and truck I drive to tow or haul so its always on concrete.

Not going to do an auto locker.

But here are the parts quoted to me:
Front 7.5" TrueTrac - $567
Rear 8.4" TrueTrac - $588
Shipping to 97078 - $55.94
Total - $1,240.94

Install if I remove the diffs is $125 per gear box. Then I reinstall myself.

What do you guys think?

 

That labor price seems reasonable.

 

That's really not that bad. But I'd reconsider the front unless you wheel.

 

I would just do the rear and see how it goes.
You won’t spend much more if shipping if you do the front later.

 

@02hilux If open wheel 4wd is at best 2wd, a locked rear 4wd is 3wd drive, and a locked f/r 4wd is 4wd; what is an LSD f/r 4x4

 

LSD will be better than an open diff but won't have the same level of reliable traction off-road that a locker will have. Even just a selectable rear locker is a night/day difference over an open diff 4x4.

Good all terrain tires too will make a big difference in traction

LSD is better for street traction so if that's a primary concern then I would go that route. I wouldn't even worry about doing the front.

 

I have a Truetrac. It works great and is seamless. Better than a locker in normal use in the wet or the snow. Really effective in the slick….and it works great off road.

A locker only works, if and when, you lock it. It’s operates the same as an open diff the other 99.9% of the time.

If you off road hard, consistently lift a wheel and need a locker, then you need a locker.

If you need better traction and are not wheeling hard then a Truetrac is a clear improvement. Mine was about $1.1K installed.

Like others recommended, I would not bother with the front.

 

In my experience limited slip offers "limited" advantage. I'd go locker or leave it alone. And only do the rear either way. Unless you're into extreme rock crawling where you often have one front wheel completely off the ground you don't need it on the front. I've been driving off road since the 1970's. My 2007 Tacoma is the 1st 4X4 I've owned with a locking diff and I did fine without it. I've had a couple with limited slip diff's and they didn't help much.

And there are some scenarios where having a limited slip or locking diff is actually a disadvantage. Wet or snow/ice covered pavement etc. will often put you in a ditch in a hurry if you get both wheels spinning at the same time. Roads are crowned with the centerline higher so rain will drain to the edges. If both wheels start spinning you're rear end will slide downhill and into the ditch. Traction control on newer vehicles is actually the best solution for that type of driving. And at least with a locking diff you can turn it off.

 

Okay awesome responses, no I dont rock crawl, ok so I'll forget the front for now. I dont try and spin tires much so lay off the gas with limited slips? Looks like I have some more reading to do. Then some youtube. Id leave the install of the LSD to a pro but I assume if I can do brakes, suspension components, and CV axles, I could probably remove the driveline and 3rd member and then reinstall it? Is that the skill level needed?

 

Pulling the 3rd member isn't very hard, you can definitely do it easy. ECGS is a good place, you can send your removed 3rd member as a core to them and get a prebuilt 3rd with what ever gears/lsd you want.

 

While you have the 3rd member out- it would be a really good time to do wheel bearings, axle seals, etc... Cap off the brake lines while you do the work. Do a brake system flush once you've got everything back together. Only thing tricky about pulling the 3rd is the locker- which you don't have, so it's not a concern for you. Otherwise, it's pretty straight forward.

 

Do I have to remove those items as part of removing the 3rd member. Ive flushed the brakes recently, but never touched the wheel bearings or seals.

 

This is probably what my limit of wheeling is, and he has two LSDs installed on his expedition.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pGH2Cw_FyM

 

If I were you I would go with a Detroit " soft " locker , this locker has been redesigned from the OE Detroit locker which is made by Eaton . The soft locker allows for quieter operation and it has a much softer engagement so you won't feel the ratcheting or tire chirping that the OE Detroit locker is known for

I've got a Detroit locker in the rear axle of my 2002 Toyota tacoma pre runner and it's my daily driver . I don't feel any ill handling characteristics that everyone complains about . I've had many vehicles with Detroit lockers over the last 45 years and as mentioned never had an issue with adverse handling

I've even had vehicles with spools or welded diffs and no driveability issues such as my 72 Camaro

 

I have a Tru Trac in the rear and really like it in mud or snow it’s pretty much like in the video above but with the E brake even with a manual I can keep both spinning pretty much when I need too. Then if things are really slick I have a Harrop E locker in the front.

 

You don't have to remove those things, but I really recommend it. The alternative is bending the hard brake lines to allow enough room to pull out the 3rd member (roughly 2.5 ~ 3" per side). I personally don't like bending the lines.

If you haven't done the bearings or seals, it's the perfect time to do it. The seals would probably fail if you didn't replace them anyway.

 

Its basically what I do on this truck. I replace things before they fail. Pulled out the original upper ball joint with 183K and 21 years. Its still stiff and supple, no leaks. Same with the LBJ's with 120K on those. Perfectly fine. I replace them anyway. Shocks same and springs same. I think I like just working on it more than anything for the experience. Rear leaf's were shot but that was my fault and a weak point. Replaced with General Springs and AAL.

 

I think some folks in this thread are missing the difference between a TrueTrac/Torsen diff and a clutch-type LSD.

A TrueTrac will not fully lock up like a clutch-type LSD will. It doesn't have a ratchet or any sort of engagement/disengagement. It simply uses a clever gear arrangement to fight the tendency of an open diff to unload all the power through one wheel when that wheel has less traction.

A TrueTrac will still unload if one wheel has no resistance (ie, is off the ground), but otherwise it biases torque towards the wheel with the most traction. With that knowledge, you can fit the unloading by applying a small amount of brake (or a few clicks of parking brake) to add some resistance if you do find yourself with a wheel off the ground.

Here's a video that shows the mechanism, albeit without much explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZmsY2YvVsc

Since you're not crawling, I think a TrueTrac sounds ideal. I've been eyeing one myself, I just haven't decided whether I also want to re-gear.

Where are you finding a TrueTrac for under $600? East Coast Gear Supply lists them at $775.

 

To reaffirm, if you need enhanced traction and are not rock crawling a Truetrac is a great. I replaced the worn our Toyota factor clutch LSD in mine with a Truetrac and it is great on the street, in the snow, in the rain and yes, in Moab or the San Bernardino mountains. Yes, you can feel it when it is working and ‘finding’ the traction. If you are considering regearing that is the time to do it. My shop shot me a great price to do the regear and I passed. My mistake.

 

It's an undecided 4wd.