tons, cummins, 40s, 80 series Land Cruiser build

Get a willwood porportioning valve, or else you won't have any brake biasing.... Ask me how I know

 

Mines a 92 though? Drum rear master cylinder?

 

bumped the starter tonight, kinda cool. Needs a few more things before I'm ready to try and start it.

 

Now grab a grinder and get after it.

 

hmm a little different, BUT I would still do it.... its such a cheap part to add to the mix......

 

Yeah but... but...

ahhhhh

42$

I'll see what happens first LOL.

 

Also, for some reason I junked the battery box. Whoops, little did I know I'd probably want that for dual batteries.

FJ80 box is on passenger side. FZJ80 box is on driver side. Combine them and ta-da... so I had to fab up a passenger side tray, it's ghetto but it works. maybe in the future I can go legit... Guess I need to find a FZJ80 box too.

Fuck it, goal is to get it running and going, I can work on all the extras later!

 

Damn...

 

I hope those didn't come out of what I think they came out of?

 

subby sub

 

Nahhhh hopefully my shits not melted. Dude swapping into a 60 pulled his head and found those. Bummer.

 

Bum deal for him for sure.

 

I just had to tease ya'll a little!

 

Been working on some of the wiring.

It may sound a little redundant but I'm a firm believer in proper grounding.

So. Battery + 2/0 to starter. Battery - 2/0 to block. Battery - 2 AWG to body. Engine block 2 awg to body. Engine block 2 awg to frame. Alt + 2 awg to Batt +. Batt - 2 awg to frame.

Copper lugs, crimped, soldered, triple wall heat shrink with adhesive.

 

I was lazy on the 4runner, body ground came uncunted and while it kept running, my lights and gauges and whatnot were going full on poltergeist. I was like whoops, broke a ground. Yep. Then I had to make a battery hold down.

 

Copied and Pasted if it seems awkward...

So I got my drivelines from Dean, he's actually made it up this way and hand delivered them. Sweet!

EVERYONE told me that single joint has more travel, I'm getting 32* out of the rear neapco 1350CV no problem. Have 1410 yoke on front output and 1350 yoke on D60. The 1350 end has plenty of clearance. Using one of those 1/4" extended yokes from WFO.

1410 (supposedly more angle) binding like a dirty SOB.

I've mutilated the yokes at this point, barely clears on the one side but going to have to demolish the driveshaft yoke to get the straps to clear it.

I'm not really sure what to do. I'd bug Dean but he's off hunting. Keep partying on the yokes or what?









Pinion is giving me no trouble, it's got plenty of clearance!




Why I'm at it... (not very related I know) anyone got any idea what the PO did to this alt. Was either externally regulated or externally regulated through the PCM but now has wires into and had a bunch of ghetto wiring on it before. I want to run just an external regulator and I can wire that up but not sure what the hell this is all about.



Edit: I also fucked up and forgot to tell him I needed it solid stock for a bit after the t-case to clear my upper link mount so after dropping some significant coin on these shafts I had to mutilate my upper link mount at the frame. Will go back and box in.

Shouldn't have cheaped out I guess. Thought single joint was better for more angle.

Rear driveline game is on lock.

Just slightly less angle than the front.

I got carbide bur bits and compressed air out the ass but, not too keen on destroying shit and not sure how weak I'm going to make it if I continue...

I don't mind limit strapping and I will run limit straps but not gonna limit 10" early.

I also might add I'm basing this off the fact that profender says their 2.5s extend to 38" so the axle is sitting at 37"

I've been waiting for my coilovers to return for months, and they were supposed to be here today but maybe tomorrow...

So that'd be helpful but still 36 37 38 I'm binding like hell.

 

http://youtu.be/NAj26rVWK14

 

You fuckers...