Too much rust or is it merely on the surface?

Price. I suspect price is what is driving so many people to pray that a rusted out POS tacoma is worth the gamble.

I don't get why there is Tacoma hype though, and I say that as someone who loves his Tacoma. If the same money can get you an F150 or Silverado with no rust then I'd go that route, especially since those do better at towing/hauling and some of the newer ones get better MPG despite being a full size.

 

I only had my 2018 for 5 years so I’m no expert but that is way more rust than I had - I find it hard to believe it is that bad for a Montana truck. You do get more moisture on that side of the divide I guess - or maybe they just salt the crap out of the roads over there? I’ve gotta fluid film my 2023!!!

 

This looks serviceable and fairly typical for a 12 year-old truck. Not worth the effort to "restore" it. Just spray yearly with Krown/FF/NHOU to slow down the rust and prevent it from getting catastrophic.

2012 models tend to have problematic secondary air injection system pumps and switching valves. Then there are the typical 2nd gen problems like timing cover leaks and steering rack leaks. Expect to spend a few thousand fixing these issues if you can't live with them.

 

What is mag chloride?

 

Magnesium chloride, a salt compound, would be my guess.. so I believe there is some in Montana….

 

Liquid deicer and dust control used in the nw (mt, id, wa, or)
Calcium chloride is used for the same purposes as well.
Salt is used too but very rarely. blue/purple rock salt.
Sand/gravel is used in rural areas and when temps render deicing agents ineffective.


Op I think you can do better. Prices are dropping on 2nd gens in the nw. Lots of trucks available with a lot less rust to no rust.

 

Pass

 

Whats the biggest tire I can fit with Rust......

 

48s

 

It looks alright to me. Check out Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator paint. I'd wire brush the crap out of it and brush on the Eastwood stuff. In fact, that is the plan for my similarly crusty 06.

 

I've lived in the rust belt for my whole life. So, I know way too much about rust. Let me explain what's wrong with a truck like that with "just surface rust" on the frame.

Yes, there is surface rust on that frame. Lots of it as a matter of fact. Some people think surface rust is a minor problem and you can just wire brush it, bomb it with some Rustoleum and maybe some Fluid Film and call it a day. Let me tell you something. Those people have never tried to get into all of the nooks and crannies on a Tacoma frame. Trust me, you'll give up in about an hour - after only hitting maybe 20% of the frame.

The best you can hope for is to slow the surface rust down. That can be done with Fluid Film, Woolwax and various other products. But if you don't knock off the dirt and paint partially hiding the corrosion, those products are not nearly as effective. And remember, those products are designed to prevent rust from starting. Stopping it once its started is not part of the program.

Then there's the issue of the rust you can't see. Yup, if it's got surface rust, it's virtually guaranteed to have rust on the inside of at least some surfaces. That hidden rust is what kills a frame. And you can't do a damn thing about it. Sure, you can possibly slow it down just a bit, but the tin worm never sleeps once it's awake and feeding. On a Tacoma frame, these are numerous areas where two layers (or more) of metal are laminated together. Although they are joined, they are not sealed. Once water gets in and the rust starts in those areas, you're all done. Trust me.

Sorry to be the bearer of sad news. I'm not being cynical, just annoyingly realistic. That baby is toast.

 

I unfortunately agree with the above. That's a real tip right there not sugar coating anything. Good luck with it! Hopefully you can get rid of most of the rust!

 

Re: >>>Too much rust or is it merely on the surface?<<< : Unfortunately: Both. If you buy it you're going to have to address this before next winter or it gets any worse. I have a 2014, purchased on 2021 w/104k. (Now at 133k) It had less frame and rear axle surface rust than this one. Frame has passed three annual Toyota inspections since I purchased it... two years left to go on the frame warranty. As soon as I got it, I started wire-brushing, priming with Rust-O-Leum prime and satin black. Then I coated the entire works with four cans of Fluid-Film and do it every fall. Everything except the rubber parts, control arms, and driveshaft. Every frame weld. Paint has held up good and so has the CRC the Toyota dealer applied. I emptied an entire can of Fluid-Film on the inside of the rear bumper and trailer hitch. At the end of the winter salt season in the spring, I seek out and drive through huge puddles when it's raining and then spray down down the entire under-carriage with a hose and nozzle. .. Touch up as required. For the hitch: every year it's a mess. Dunno why. Frame welds are always rusty after a while: even on southern vehicles and other makes. Treat them anyway.

The cast-iron rear axle components: same thing: Treat them: The focus here is to preserve the mating (gasket) surfaces. If they start weeping/leaking due to rust-intrusion, it's too late/done. and that's not a cheap sheet-steel cover back there like most most cars have. It's massive casting. Expensive to say the least. "If you have to ask how much: you can't afford it."

 

Hard pass. It already needs work and will be ongoing.

Look out west, then take a plane ride and drive it home.

 

I’d buy it. Go for it.

 

Tap on everything with a 8 oz. Hammer. Thin spots produce a different sound than solid metal w/ superficial rust.