Took several tries pressing the clutch to start. Need advice to bypass switch

Couple weeks ago I had to press down several times (hard) to get the neutral safety switch to make a connection and start my car. But, that only happened one time, so I figured it was just a glitch and decided to ignore it.

Well, now it's a full blown emergency. I got off work at midnight and it did the same thing. I didn't know what to do so I pressed down on the pedal as far as it would go and thankfully it got juice and the car started. Driving home I was pretty shook up. I've got an appointment at 11:00 AM and I have no damn idea if the switch is going to mess with me. If the car doesn't start in the morning I have to get on my hands and knees and tear into those wires to bypass the switch.

I know this is a long post, but please give me some advice:

Is it possible I broke the neutral switch or bent it out of place by pressing the pedal all the way to the floor as far as it will go?

Any advice in getting that damn wire coupling off the switch? Do you press down with pliers or push in with a screwdriver? There is no damn room to work on it.

Thanks for any advice. I can buy a new switch for $40 and work on it this weekend. But man I've got to get that thing running in the morning to get me to my appointment, then to work, and then get me home again.

BTW I have a brand new battery, put in a new starter 3 years ago, and new ground wire. I can't imagine it being the ignition switch. Everything seems to point to it being the neutral switch. Any other ideas? Car zooms to life once that switch is engaged.

 

Switch contacts also wear with age.

OR

Bracket broke , vibrated loose , Fire walls can crack Clutch brackets also break.

Someone moved your seat back so it seems your leg is extended more .

I have problems going from my normal work boots to sneakers just the thickness of the soles.

In a emergency make jumper with 2 spade connectors plug into the harness were the switch connects.

I might remember to replace the switch only been a few years . I think about doing it then the thoughts aregone.

Best of luck.

 

Thanks to everyone. I'll upload a photo that shows the bracket may be bent.

The rubber piece is still there (the one that contacts the switch).

When I get up here in an hour I'm going to wrap some vinyl tape around it.

If that doesn't work (the internal guts of the switch are broken), then I'll try to pull the plastic wire couple off and jump it with a paper clip. But if that couple fights me and wont come off I got to snip the wires and tape them together.

And damn if that doesn't work, then I guess it's either my ignition switch that's busted, or a loose connection somewhere to the starter. At that point it's a $40 uber ride to my appointment, and a $40 ride back, and another $40 ride to work. So you see why this is a big deal

Thanks again for taking time out to help me

 

For what it's worth, replacing the switch is very simple, and the switch itself should be less than one of your Uber rides.

 

You don't have to do anything permanent like snipping the wires. Use two small alligator clips with a wire in between them and then jumper the two spades.

 

I gave up. I got on my hands and knees and squeezed the switch closed with my left and turned the key with my right. Nothing, no clicks, just dead.

I got a rental car for the week. I got an appointment at a shop to look at it. There's no room for me to get in there and get the switch out with my physical condition...but I might try again later on.

I can jump the wires...IF I can get that plastic clip off without breaking all the plastic and then come to find out it's a bad wire somewhere else

 

nope. mine does not have that

 

I have a 2nd gen.

When my clutch safety switch stopped working, i took it off and just tied the wires together.
I've done this on a few other vehicles.

Can someone confirm that the 1st gen would work the same way?

It's really not a huge deal to do

 

All you have to do is provide a ground at your start relay......thats all that neutral switch provides, a ground to allow start relay to energize....
Simplest way is to short that switch.......

Or you can use or make a power probe to directly power the far side of the starter relay.....on the opposite two pins...
all you need is a 12v hot lead.....bump start the starter.....
Just make sure you 12v the starter lead and not the ground lead.....which should be open anyways because of the bad switch........

 

It should work to do that, yeah

 

If you've provided an iffy ground.....ie..failing switch.....it may of caused that start relay to go bad.....over heated.
Could of even damaged the ignition switch....or that may even be the source of problem to begin with...
25 year old systems......grounds are first suspect.......

everyone here should have a ground probe tester......

 

Yeah if I had a MT.....I would damn sure have a defeat switch......
especially since it has no power........its just a ground feed......
cheap part at that......


Wondering how to do that on an AT.......when the NSS goes on them its north of $120.....doubt you get much of a warning either.......although a lot better protected.....