Tool-less, 32oz cupholder mod

As of today, on sale via Etsy.com-25% off. Taylor of Static Climbing Company responded quickly and provided the following options or "Tacoma Mods."

-2 single thinner loops (100% mod people choose)

-Swap out the fleece for a nylon liner (the most popular mod other than the thin loops)

-Smaller brush loop / or / no brush loop at all (the side loop that is sized down slightly to fit a sharpie or pen)

-Standard size (fits a 32/40oz Hydroflask) / or / smaller size (fits a normal water bottle) / or / XL (fits a 64oz hydroflask)

-Standard / or / mirrored (If ordering 2) (have the pen loop face the same side so they mirror when installed)

-Patch on the front(normal) / or / the back or leave it off the bag (only applies to bags with patches on them)

-Remove the drawstring and grommet / or / keep the grommet and drawstring

Best of luck.

 

Can confirm it works with RTIC 40oz. tumblers

 

Found a topographic map one on Amazon. Matches the hood graphic. Also use a cupholder insert for when you need more than one big sippy cup

 

This is a great idea.

 

Got mine! Thanks to all those who suggested Static Climbing Co. Taylor was a pleasure to deal with and I got all the mods I wanted!

 

Add me to this list.........and I have to say Taylor was awesome to deal with and super fast! I would not hesitate to recommend Static Climbing.

 

Anyone mount this where it is easily removable? Would like to be able to move it around as needed.

 

Mine is a 3rd gen manual transmission...That said, it is pretty easily removable. Take some care in using a plastic pry tool. Start at the front end (toward the front bumper) and ease the edge of the tool underneath. Gently slide your tool, while it is underneath, toward the rear until you hit the first red plastic clip. Back the tool out a bit and get the front edge (the busines end) of your tool in front of the red clip and push upward and inward towards it until you hear the click. Do the same on the other side. Gently lift up the entire front end of the panel (only the front end, maybe 50 % of it). I think you may need to unclip two red clips on both the driver and passenger side. But I'm not sure, it may only be one clip on each side. The first pic is of where the pry tool goes initially before gently sliding rearward until you make contact with the first red clip.

If you want to continue removing the panel for a full installation of two chalk bags, gather the following tools: Dremel with metal cutting disc, sharp knife, needle and thread, plastic pry tool, and a 4" bolt with a nyloc nut (pictured already sewn onto the thin nylon loops). Sew the nylon loops in tight with the nyloc nut once you have figured out your spacing.

Next, use the Dremel and cutting disc to cut out about a 1" section on either side of each red clip to better accommodate the thin nylon loops of the chalk bag. There is only one red clip on each side (driver and passenger sides) that you are cutting a 1" section out of on either side of said red clip. Then, shave the rest with your sharp knife until you have a flush fit. Trust me, this part is worth it if you are OCD about the gap when you finish it. Eliminate the gap by doing this cutting and shaving.

Finally, install each bag (or one bag) to where the red clip is in front of and secures your bolt behind the red clip. Be sure to push all four loops (two loops on each bag) well behind each red clip simultaneously while using your thumbs to push the entire transmission panel downward. This is so the thickest part (the doubled up nylon loops) of the four nylon loops don't get locked underneath the transmission panel when you clip everything in place. You want the thinnest part of each nylon loop (the part where the nylon loop is not doubled, only single loop) locked underneath the transmission panel in order to reap the greatest benefit of the gap-eliminating cutting job you just did with your Dremel and sharp knife. Boom! You're done and now you don't have to worry about Nalgenes and Hydroflasks rolling around on your floorboard.

 

I followed your steps to set mine up, thank you!

 

I always wonder about people who choose big stick versus round knob.

Does that shit not fatigue your wrist after a while? Aren't 3-4 and 5-6 upshifts awkward as hell? Or the rare 4-6 skip shift?? Seems like you're way up in the air if you just want to fingertip it.

From a round knob guy.

 

I’ve come from short shifters and round knobs. Most of my manual cars I always liked the shifter to be lower and beefier,
However, I noticed that with this truck, I much rather have the longer shifter. I will try to explain it to the best of my abilities:
Since I’m shorter I found myself having to sit a bit more upright to see over the hood of the truck. I believe is because the driving position is a lot different than what I’m used to from manual cars, and the clutch being somewhat harder to engage. I tried to get a round knob but I felt I was having to lower myself to engage the gears. Since the shift knob is heavy, it’s actually a lot easier to shift. I haven’t driven long distances with it but so far my wrist isn’t fatigue.
I hope that makes sense.
Perhaps I gotta give a round knob a try again, I just gotta find a heavier one.

 

If it works, it works.

Its a curiosity thing. I've always been a majority palm-down (I'd guess an 80/20 preference), both in my short-throw and obnoxiously-long floor shifters.

I've just never met a majority palm-vertical, but obviously there are a lot because I see a lot of big shafts on the market.

 

Maybe they've got short arms.

 

had to keep a reference for when people borrow my truck

 

Trying not to be an Elmer, but that’s a damn shame. The dual clutch transmissions are far superior to my manual, but I prefer the manual but slower version. It’s a more engaging experience.

So I’m with you!