Topper/Shell/Cap slides backward on bed rails

Just got back from a 1000 mile road trip, about 250 of it off road.

The topper has a Thule rack system installed by Leer on my 100XQ. I carry an RTT and awning on it. The truck is a 2013 DCSB, so the top is only held down with four little bolts into t-nut like slide-ins on the factory cargo track system. Inadequate, IMO. Every other topper I've had used heavy clamps to secure it to the bed.

About halfway through the trip, I noticed that the tailgate was super difficult to open and close. Soon thereafter, I saw that the top had migrated rearward about a half inch, and the fiberglass was within 1/32" of contacting the metal cb antenna mounting bracket by the tail light. Not good.

With no possible way to off-load the weight on the rack, I backed up a hill, loosened all four of the little bolts, drove forward and slammed on the brakes two or three times, buying me an extra quarter inch on each side. I guess I'm lucky that the entire thing didn't ram into the back of the cab, huh?

Now that I am back home, I was able to coax the top back into it's proper position, but I really don't want to over-tighten the wimpy little bolts or break off the fiberglass lip. and I sure don't want to relive the nightmare of the thing slipping backward on the rails every time I go wheeling.

Anyone have a remedy in mind?

 

My LEER 100R on my 2006, nor my LEER 100XL on my 2013 ever moved.

 

First thing that comes to mind is the rather large rack on top acting like a sail

 

Here is my recommendation:
I purchased these on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/API-Truck-C...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8b9f89a5&vxp=mtr

These provide the Horizontal Force ( which is why your top is sliding ), I'm guessing your bolts have a washer through the fiberglass to the T-Nut, it pulls on theT-Nut but bends the fiberglass inward.. this solution clamps down the fiberglass to the top of the bed. The only other solution would be is drill holes through cap into the bed, insert 1/2" pins.
Try the clamps style first.

 

Standard, garden variety, 2 mpg-robbing Thule rack.

 

Thanks. I will look into these. That's very helpful. Added to your rep.

 

Well, I'll sleep better now after seeing that, haha!

The Leer Company is absolutely the least accessible outfit I have dealt with. They are not even remotely interested in direct customer contact, and will refer their paying customers back to their poorly managed dealer network each time you happen to navigate the maze that may...maybe...get you through to them.

That said, the topper is warranted for a lifetime against structural failure, with no small print. I opted to have the factory install the Thule system in order to have a bit more assurance and to remove the inevitable "it was them" response to a claim.

Getting a straight answer from Leer as to the load capacity of their products is akin to determining how many licks it takes to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop. After all of the Q&A with the local dealer, I was assured that it would handle in excess of 300#, and the RTT is only 125#.

Now, reality and the laws of inertia dictate that that 125# is a dynamic load that is thrashing and bashing about with a good degree of lateral leverage thrown in to boot. I don't like off-roading with it on there one bit, I can assure you (until I arrive at that spot where the Corollas can't get to), and I am absolutely convinced that doing so will fatigue the fiberglass as sure as I am sitting here typing this right now. At that point, Leer will hear from me.

Until then, I need to go exploring with a "stop the rearward migration" solution.

 

Stock roof load for a non commercial Leer cap is 150lbs IIRC

and you periodically need to tighten the fastening bolts

 

You get yours from A&A? They're dang good for customer service. Torque the bedrail-to-topper bolts/blocks a little bit, you won't break anything with that 5' bed.

You could also get the same bedrail-to-topper bolts/block to place in the middle of the two that they should have placed on each bedrail, one at the rear and one at the front. Not difficult.

 

Think these have enough height to work with the square tubing of a Softopper?

 

No, not A&A, but absolutely agree that they are unequaled in this market. Awesome guys.

 

Yep

What is the weight capacity of my LEER factory installed Thule Roof Rack System?

When factory-installed on a LEER Model 100XQ, 100XL, 100XR, 100R, 180, or 122, the Thule Aero Bar and Tracker II Roof Rack systems have a maximum load capacity of 150 lbs. When factory-installed on a LEER Model 100RCC or 180CC, the Thule Professional Roof Rack system has a maximum load capacity of 400 lbs. There are other critical factors in safely carrying and securing loads to your roof rack – these factors are explained in the instructions provided by Thule with the roof rack.


http://www.leer.com/FAQ

 

I've got the identical cap with a CVT Mt.Hood mounted on top:



Mine has not moved at ALL - after wheeling Moab then driving back home across the Country too.

I think you may need to just tighten the bolts.

 

Leer doesn't make a commercial version of the 100XQ model

 

It is the same as the OP unless he added the Thule rail system himself.

Sucker has held up like a champ & I did overload the snot out of it once with 8 structural columns for one of my customers.

 

Not to get off topic... What about adding a few extra crossbars to distribute the weight on the non commercial caps?
Someone on here did it.

 

It's not the rack , it's the roof structure

The Leer commercial caps have a reinforced roof structure

 

Have I read that you are in the process of fitting a Prinsu cap rack? I have a cab rack on order with them, and am standing by for your results b4 ordering a cap rack.

I am thinking that their design will both reduce the height off the topper as well as disperse the weight due to additional mounting points along the tracks.

 

I would say just tighten your bolts down too. I just got back from 800 miles of dirt and my shell had actually slid forward about a 3/4" and was rubbing on the rear window rubber when the truck would twist. When I got home I checked and a few of the bolts had came a little loose. I usually go through mine and clean and tighten everything up every 6 months or so.

 

Right, but it would still help no? You are still distributing the weigt over more area.

Where is the actual reinforcement in the cap? Just in the roof?