Torque Atermarket wheels?

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/tip-reduce-torque-when-using-antiseize.44358/


Looks like the less torque camp is correct.

https://www.rocol.com/knowledge-centre/rocol_expert/a-deeper-understanding-of-anti-seize#:~:text=Therefore, when an anti-seize,than for a dry fastener.

 

I will say if you're adding enough to make it reduce torque its too much.

On a new lug stud, I can flick the nut on all the way to the rim with the tips of my fingers.

On a vehicle with 2 or more years, you cannot. There's resistance.

So a tiny dab of anti seize helps alleviate that resistance. Not overwhelm the stud.

This is real world experience, not a lab with soaking wet bolts that are in prime condition.

 

OP, turn 'em till they break, then back 'em off a quarter turn.

 

Just to make things more confusing, the 4Runner manual specifies a lower torque if you have aluminum wheels, but the Tacoma manual does not:

 

OP, anything in the neighborhood of 83 ft*lbs is fine...

For anyone concerned by a 10% deviation, what do you do if you have to swap wheels/tires on the road or trail? I don't know too many people that carry a torque wrench with them. I think some of you are over thinking this.

 

83 is fine
90 is fine
You're not damaging anything at 100

No fucking way I'm torquing any customer's wheels to 62 lb/ft. That's less than a 3 bolt Smart Car

The engineers also say to torque the oil drain plug to 30 lb/ft and that's insane. That bolt is always going to be "wet" too. Way too much..

 

And simple search will reveal by more than one expert that it’s not recommended to put anti sieze on lug nuts or wheel studs. But the torque value should be lowered by approx 20-25%.

 

But that's what Bishop is saying.. Are these experts doing their testing on rusty studs that have been on the road for 60,000 miles in the elements?

We're not gooping antisieze on a brand new stud that's shiny and clean, with a nut you can spin on with your pinky finger. The antiseize is a way to get a scratchy fastener back to a more normal amount of friction, like getting it back to "new"

 

Any verdict in aftermarket wheels on OEM studs? Or do we just stick to the manufacturer recommendations of 83 ft/lbs?

 

Between my own cars and customer's cars during my years as an auto tech I've put dozens of aftermarket wheels on cars and if you include the tire rotations with aftermarket wheels I've probably torqued hundreds of aftermarket wheels and I just go with the factory spec. It is a good idea however to recheck them several times when they're new as I have seen them settle in and require a retorque.

 

You don't need anti seize at all on lug nuts

 

Like a banjo head

 

And perhaps more importantly, lubing the threads results in more consistency with your torque readings. Dry torque specs are for clean new fasteners. Weathering will affect the torque required to achieve a set clamping pressure.