Torque On 3.4 Valve Covers

@2JHilux thank you. When I did the job, the PCV valve was replaced with an OEM unit. The valve hose could use a replacement. I checked the PCV valve and the hoses that were in play, no clogs were detected. I will look into cleaning out the PCV system as you mentioned.

Here is a photo of the valve, showing the bottom part that plugs into the cover. Any issues with the oil residue?

 

I think if it's been replaced and you know what the wetness is around the hose, you're just fine. He just noticed it and brought up a good point about it. But I think as long as the lines are clear and the valve is new, you should be okay there. Unless there's more to it, and there might be. But I'm thinking that's fine

 

For those having leaks, did you torque the bolts in the correct sequence and divide it up in 3 or 4 passes? You also should use new brass/rubber washers each time as well.
Correct, RTV or FIPG should only be applied where specified. Most Asian vehicles only use it where the surface encounters a hump or dip to make sure the corner seals on valve covers.

 

I also learned this the hard way

 

There will be some oil on the bottom of the PCV which looks normal. If you replaced it on the last job and you checked the hoses I think you are most likely ok.
The oil residue on the hose is probably from before you changed it then, or look for a split in the bottom of the hose.
Those hoses usually have an oil mist going through there so oil can come out of places over time.

 

does this effect the valve cover

 

after 13lb of force.

 

I went 13lb and now im hemrrging on the tail pipe

 

I'm paranoid and want to use some thread lock so these bolts don't back out (plan on doing this job soon).

 

Anyone know the best place to get replacement valve cover bolts? Did the job and realized the last person to do this (previous owner, shop, idk) used two bolts on the valve cover that don't fit....

Truck: 2003 Tacoma 3.4L V6 5vzfe engine

 

Yea i used an expensive blue felpro gasket set with all new rubber washers, used the black rtv on the half moons, which i bought new because old ones were chipped.. put new crank caps on and rtv where it said was only needed, torqued in sequence in stages to 52 in lbs and the damn thing still leaked from both the rear driver side and front driver side .. oil got all over timing belt, alternator and exhaust so it would smoke from under the hood.. i retorqed the bolts down a little, still leaked. Torqued the bolts down till the rubber washers bulging out.. still leaked., so i bought a shitty eBay special gasket set for 12$, bought the fipg for 25$ and put that crap all in the groove, sat the gssket, put all around the half moons, cam caps and lined the whole head with it, set the valve cover on, even put fipg on both sides of the new rubber washers and torqued to 52 in lbs. if the sucker leaks still than im just dealing with the leaks cuz the valves were already adjusted and only reason id need back in there is if the head gasket goes but then id have the whole head off so cleaning wont be a big deal.
speaking of, has anybody noticed that the expiration dates for all the fipg is 11/30/25?? Every one i saw was that date.. not sure how many newer cars use it but wondering whether ivwas just buying new old stock online. Check a tube yall got and see the exp date.. worth a gander..

 

Oh. And boobies…
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