Total Chaos Shock Relocation

Hey guys,

I'm gearing up to do the total chaos shock relocation and am looking for a better understanding of the rear axle geometry.
Before installing the kit, I will be installing wheelers ubolt flip and super bump stops in the rear.
These are the total chaos instructions

https://www.chaosfab.com//PDF/install/accessories/49625.pdf

The driveway I'm working on is all types of screwed up. I will try to level the truck in pitch and roll as best as I can. From what I know, the leafs locate the axle. Once I have the top mount welded and I set up the shock perch on the axle, do I need to make sure the axle is level? Theta 1
Is there a chance the axle is also rotating about the diff, as shown in theta 2.




This measurement would essentially make sure angle 1 is the same on both sides of axle I believe.

 

As long as you have the leafs snugged up to the rear axle (center pins set into the leaf perches), you don't need to worry about theta 2. Note that when you do snug up the leafs (the u-bolts), that's when you want to make sure things are aligned - i.e. have both center pins aligned the same way in the hole in the respective perches.

As for theta 1 - you'll want to make sure the axle is level - and ideally that the truck is on level ground - so that you can get "better" measurements for bump stop distance and position of the lower mount. If the axle isn't level, then you're essentially flexing out the truck (a little bit), and the whole idea is to install the suspension when you're not flexing at all.

Now, a lot of folks are going to tell you that the chaosfab instructions are wrong - because really you should be cycling your leaf springs to figure out positioning of your bumps, and the full extension of the shocks (or, rather, where to limit strap the shocks). That's not what you were asking though, so it's up to you if it's something you are concerned with. I'm not super familiar with their relocation kit, and it's likely that they designed it for some set of parameters (shocks, leafs, etc.). If your truck matches those parameters, their instructions are likely just fine.

 

Yeee I thought youd have some info, thanks.
I think they key point is when the axle is hanging off the leafs, and I jack it up to set the height, it needs to be level. That makes sense. Thanks
Do you cycle the leafs with the shocks attached? Cant find much info online for a procedure.

 

Nope, you don't cycle the leafs with the shocks attached, otherwise they can affect the geometry.

Here's the process I used for relocation. Note that it was a different relocation than the TC kit, but all the concepts still apply; it's just that your mounts are different.

How-To: Toyota Tacoma Rear Shock Relocation – Determining Leaf Spring Cycle and Mount Positioning

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Just scanned over it- will re-read tonight.
Holy procedure. Wow. Why use wood between the leafs? To make it easier to cycle ?

 

Yeah, lots of steps there, but it's reasonably straight forward once you're into it. There are a few links at the top of the post to photos of when I actually did it. By all means, keep asking questions!

The wood is to simulate the full thickness of the leaf pack - when you are cycling the leafs, you do it by removing all but the top (longest and most flexible) leaf and bolting it to the axle. Without the other 2-5 leafs in there, the axle (and the lower shock mount) is 2-5 leafs closer to the frame than it would be otherwise. So, the block of wood is bolted between the top leaf and axle as a spacer, to simulate that thickness.

 

I think one thing that's not been talked about is how your tire size, and fender clearance affects where the bumpstop goes. If you set the bumpstop incorrectly, you can potentially ram your tires into the fenderwell under full compression. This is especially true if you have larger tires. And given this is a first gen with outboard shocks (that will likely need spacers or wheels with more offset), that can also affect how and where the tires may contact the fender.

So ideally, you'd set the bump stops not just considering the max suspension geometry, but also so the tires still clear the fenders. THEN go about measuring for shock travel, etc...

It may not be something you need to make major adjustments to, but it's definitely worth confirming it's good before finish welding...

 

@turbodb
Hey what are you torquing down to 150 in your procedure? I think the highest torque would be u-bolt which off top my head is 70-80ftlb
I'm looking at two torque wrenches, both CDI usa made/assembled. One is 20-100 ftb and one 40-250ftlb
At one point in life I'll get both, for now selecting one.

 

Go for the 40 to 250 one. Way more stuff on your truck in that range. Like the crank pulley bolt that's like 210 or something.

 

My ubolts are 9/16 or 5/8, and so take a higher torque than OEM.

I am with @jbrandt on getting the 40 to 250 torque wrench.

 

Yeeee, I decided that anything 40 and under I usually do "good-n-tight" unless its engine work which I dont foresee lol.
Got this

$189 Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head

bad boy. Planning on relocating the shocks this weekend. Will def post some pics in here.

 

Y

Yikes! I generally recommend this one, for about half the dough. Not sure if you can/want to return that one you got...but this one has a larger range as well (on the low end)

TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb.) | 24340

 

hahaha I’m a freak ! I like the adjustment style and the USA made. I think of it as buy once cry once but maybe I’m fooling myself.

Setting up the truck tomorrow for the operation
Got spidertrax 1.25” spacer for the rear cus rn I got 1”. I know I’m gonna deal with rubbing but fuck it. In too deep. I’ll get new wheels if I have to lol.

 

Torque wrench is super nice.
Got one side done. Welding low to the fucking ground sucks but I made it happen.




Clearance. Prob rub when I’ll be flexed.
I didn’t cycle the leafs... I know I know. I just don’t have the time luxury here and I trust the chaos kit to work. It might not be optimized but I got the right 10” dimension including some bump compression. I can always space bump stop in future if I need.

 

Wrapping up today. The fuel side is a PITA. Gotta remote stock bracket adjust hoses and blablabla. It’s real tight.

Edit: too much beer brake line seems fine ool

 

Finally done. That was some tough welding for the lower perches. A lot of point and shoot - blind. Forgot how tough it can get positional welding.

Moving the filler neck and breather lines at the fuel area was a PAIN. I think the chaos instructions show a extended cab long bed. More room. I had to modify the oem fuel bracket and the small tab provided by total chaos.

 

There will 100% be decent rubbing at full flex.
Need to find a spot to flex and see, but new wheels are inevitable.

 

You'll love it. The handling difference was night and day for me at least.

I have the slightest amount of tire rub on my shock body, but I also opted for remote resis over the piggyback style like you have.

 

Could you take a picture of your wheel to shock gap when the truck sits flat?

I think with or without the resi there you get the same rub. You just happen to Rub 2 parts , and my beautifil king stickers lol

Yes, I live in Santa Cruz and took it down HWY 17 (very windy) and the handling is much better. I dont have a front swaybar and it removed some body roll.
I had them set on the softest setting nad have bumped them up a bit. Still experimenting.

 

I'll try to get you some pics tomorrow.

With the suspension flexed out, anything closer to the centerline of the wheel is going to rub more than something further from the centerline. Because the piggyback resi is closer to centerline than the shock body is, it will see a little more rubbing. Also, you could try playing around with some superbump spacers to limit rubbing.