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Tourque converter lockup solenoid code

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Jerry311SD, Mar 2, 2017.

  1. Mar 2, 2017 at 12:47 PM
    #1
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    KDMaxx tune K&N drop in AFE catback Oil catch can Bill's 6112/5160 Dynomat whole inside of cab TRD skid plate
    Ok So my 01 TRD supercharged v6 auto keeps throwing the code for the torque converter lock up solenoid. P0770


    So far I have replaced
    Trans oil and filter
    torque converter lock up solenoid
    both shift solenoid's
    input speed sensor
    out put speed sensor
    engine coolant temp sensor

    But I am still getting the code when i use overdrive the check engine light comes on.
    I NEED to pass smog. I am driving around with temp registration. I cant find a shop that will pass me.

    If I reset the light and drive with the overdrive off. It wont come back on but my catalyst monitor will not be ready if I dont drive the truck using overdrive.


    What the hell do I do I'd rather sell the truck then put a new trans in it. I'm getting killed by childsupport and wage garnish for taxes owed during the time i was married.


    Is there anyway to pass the cali smog crap. the truck runs fine shifts fine.
     
  2. Mar 2, 2017 at 1:05 PM
    #2
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    Dude on toyotanation claims the transmission oil pump was the problem and now it's fixed. Good luck, man
     
  3. Mar 3, 2017 at 7:09 AM
    #3
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    KDMaxx tune K&N drop in AFE catback Oil catch can Bill's 6112/5160 Dynomat whole inside of cab TRD skid plate
    Yeah I looked over there, didnt find anything to help me.

    I'm going to have to sell the truck. i'm so bummed
     
  4. Mar 3, 2017 at 7:19 AM
    #4
    TashcomerTexas

    TashcomerTexas My truck is a whiner

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    Interesting. I get a less than frequent p0741. That's a torque converter clutch circuit, but I can clear it and it won't show up for weeks or months.
     
  5. Mar 3, 2017 at 8:17 AM
    #5
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    When the truck is stopped and idling in gear if you take your foot off the brake does the truck want to take off or does the truck just pretty much sit there?
     
  6. Mar 3, 2017 at 8:38 AM
    #6
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    KDMaxx tune K&N drop in AFE catback Oil catch can Bill's 6112/5160 Dynomat whole inside of cab TRD skid plate
    It moves like normal
    I have no drivability issues at all.
     
  7. Mar 3, 2017 at 9:06 AM
    #7
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
    How many miles are on the truck?
     
  8. Mar 3, 2017 at 9:18 AM
    #8
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    KDMaxx tune K&N drop in AFE catback Oil catch can Bill's 6112/5160 Dynomat whole inside of cab TRD skid plate
    It's got about 160K

    New torque converter and trans rebuild @ 80K

    The truck drives like normal no slipping nothing it goes into overdrive just fine.
    when I changed the fluid there were no metal shavings at all the fluid was verry clean.
     
  9. Mar 4, 2017 at 12:34 AM
    #9
    Dannny boy

    Dannny boy Stab it and Steer

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    Have you ever had the A/T temp light come on?
     
  10. Mar 4, 2017 at 1:14 AM
    #10
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    You may have an intermittently failing lockup TCC solenoid which is built into torque converter I believe. Replacement of it is the only option meaning the tranny would likely have to come down, again. I see it happen a lot on first gens.
     
  11. Mar 4, 2017 at 8:18 PM
    #11
    Dannny boy

    Dannny boy Stab it and Steer

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    The code points to a lockup malfunction. I read that this is electrical 20% of the time and otherwise a mechanical issue. My trans 160 miles on the highway after a full flush gave an A/T temp light, pumps burnt fluid and shows this code. I read that the valve body can be dropped to access the solenoid with the unit in place. If this is a common thing with these maybe I don't feel so bad about possibly killing it. Thanks for chiming in.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2017
  12. Mar 6, 2017 at 4:43 AM
    #12
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have never gotten a AT Temp light to come on. I'm not sure I have that.

    When I was replacing the cracked flexplate. I dropped the pan and changed the filter and the TCC Solenoid. And the two shift Solenoid that come in the kit I bought.


    The TCC Solenoid is twords the front of the trans with the wire going to it..

    IMAG1692_zpsggebcoh7_78592765a23dcc9349866ecb5b1b2443050b0873.jpg



    Did the Rear main seal while I was there

    IMAG1396_zpstdo69tv3_cd4f2c9cc4d5e4fce1d7030243ee7008fe713a10.jpg




    And Replaced the Cracked Flex plate..

    IMAG1395_zpsoeltog94_8b2c95372dc026a17d6ce17268f3db06b93c76ec.jpg





    IMAG1394_zpsej1ffznp_3c408b134a048d001073bcc31cc3e60296088a4e.jpg
     
  13. Mar 7, 2017 at 1:11 PM
    #13
    Dannny boy

    Dannny boy Stab it and Steer

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    Is that TCC solenoid replaceable by just removing the pan? It looks like it from your picture. I had read the valve body needed to come out. Also, how did you remove the pan - mine is really stuck on there. Thanks
     
  14. Mar 7, 2017 at 1:47 PM
    #14
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Once I removed the pan AND the filter all three solenoid's where right there just like you see it in my picture.

    The pan came right off. the truck is super clean, no rust or crap on it or under it
     
  15. Mar 7, 2017 at 3:15 PM
    #15
    Dannny boy

    Dannny boy Stab it and Steer

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    The solenoid on the end of the long wire, that's the TCC? What kit did you go with, was it cheap enough to just replace all or did you have a problem with them? Did you put 12 volt to them to verify function? Thanks
     
  16. Mar 7, 2017 at 3:52 PM
    #16
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    #16
  17. Mar 7, 2017 at 4:25 PM
    #17
    Dannny boy

    Dannny boy Stab it and Steer

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    The TSB M.I.L._ON_DTC_P0770_T-EG025-02.pdf indicates it could also be an ecm problem. Does your truck go into lockup? I had a dealer say to hook it up to their diagnostic machine which would do the things listed in the TSB; force the solenoid etc. and test the ecm function would be $99. Hey at least your not overheating - I assume you've had it on the open road at 50+ I guess that's when the converter is supposed to lock.
     
  18. Mar 7, 2017 at 4:51 PM
    #18
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I can drive around all day every day and NOT use the O/D and it's fine

    but When I use the overdrive around 50mph give or take the light will come on.

    The truck will go into overdrive I can feel it and hear it in the exhaust.
    But I have no drivability probs at all.

    I wish I had the 99$ for that. ECM soundsexpensive
     
  19. Mar 7, 2017 at 5:35 PM
    #19
    Dannny boy

    Dannny boy Stab it and Steer

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    I never have the O/D off button pressed on the shifter. I just assumed that's the normal function position. I understood the O/D off button forces it into 3rd at speed - used in passing, pulling hills etc.. I guess my converter is failing to lock up in 4th and burning up fluid. Doesn't feel any different - RPMs normal. I guess I'll make sure that O/D is definitely off until I figure this out. Can you clear the code and keep O/D off to pass emissions? Doesn't fix the problem but maybe gets you registered.
     
  20. Mar 7, 2017 at 7:52 PM
    #20
    Dannny boy

    Dannny boy Stab it and Steer

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    grey wire, buzzer yank, last click defrost, tack welded column, deckplate, intake silencer delete, led map/red overhead, led backups, underhood dual battery, onboard air, CS-144 big fucking alternator, big fucking alternator wiring, overhead rifle rack, airbag pistol safe, cab to camper 12 volt evap cooler, bug screen cab windows, onboard shower, solar panel and beer fridge!
    Ah, never mind I just read the catylitic thing you mentioned in your post. Reading this... http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf

    ....this part....
    In order to turn on solenoid valve No. 3 to operate the lock-up system, the following three
    conditions must exist simultaneously:
    • The vehicle is traveling in second, third, or overdrive ("D" range).
    • Vehicle speed is at or above the specified speed and the throttle opening is at or above the
    specified value.
    • The ECU has received no mandatory lock-up system cancellation signal.

    The ECU will cancel lock-up if any of the following conditions occur:
    • The stop light switch comes on.
    • The coolant temperature is below 122'F to 145’F depending on the model. Consult the vehicle
    repair manual or the ECT Diagnostic Information Technician Reference Card.
    • The IDL contact points of the throttle position sensor close.
    • The vehicle speed drops about 6 mph or more below the set speed while the cruise control
    system is operating.

    Sounds like you've already covered most of those though.

    Hoping mine is any of these scenarios but don't think I'm that lucky
     

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