Tourque converter lockup solenoid code

Common issue with the A340 series transmission
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/3466-oversized-secondary-pressure-regulator-valve-kit

 

I did pick that one up in one of your many links. I wondered if it might be easy/cheap enough to pull the valve body and send it for refurbishing if the solenoid checked out.
So if I understand this correctly this transmission enters lockup mode at highway speeds. One shop seemed to agree that another flush and keeping it in town wouldn't overheat it.

 

Hey Jerry, what was the reason the trans + torque converter was rebuilt/replaced at 80k? That's even lower than my 140.

 

Dannny
I cant say. This is what the guy told me when I bought it or traded.
I traded a 1975 Chevy 4x4 for this truck

He said it was rebuilt at 80K and then had a new conveter at around 90K.
I'm thinking that the supercharger is just to much for the Automatic trans to handle.

 

Maybe if I had a drivabilty problem it might be easier to pin point whats going on.
But the the dam thing shifts into all the gears just fine.

My Registration was due in DEC. I paid my renewal but cant get my stickers because of this. it's so stupid. Im ready to sell it and buy a prius.

 

I always heard "If ya go fast ya break shit." I did the poor man's version by cutting a big frig'n hole in the front of the airbox and yanking the silencers. It did give it some getup - maybe helped break it. I'd clear that code and find yourself a 5 speed. I just picked up a 2000. Gonna park this thing and track it down later or cannibalize it.
My thoughts are this: If a component generates high heat and is dependent on internal electric sensors, switches, actuators etc.. it's only a matter of time before one of these fails. Electronics hate heat. If its not locking don't get it on the freeway. You'll probably burn it up. Regardless, I do think the dealer diagnostic might be well spent before throwing any more parts at it.

 

I could never find if the lockup function 'S3 Solenoid P0770' only came into play at speed around the 4th gear range. I read that it applies to coasting conditions where it improves fuel economy, and overdrive highway speeds. The service manual says however it can occur in 2nd or 3rd gear. Is this function happening all the time?

 

Isn't it nice to just press a go or no go pedal and sit back with a 40 oz Big Gulp with the A/C and dark windows. All while calmly navigating 3 stoplight changes on clogged city streets, maybe pop another vicadin. Bye bye ol' desert sand mica basket case salvage. but it did put up with a lot - 12 years and just oil changes and brakes + 5000 miles at least of BAD road.

 

JUST TO APPLE-AGIZE i probly' 'jacked this thread, but this condition seems to apply. My desert sand slinker may have finally fried its converter. I can only assume after a legacy of indifference. But before you yell at me - 12 years trying to amoratize an unalignable repaired salvage, I did keep her rolling, though preventative maintenance never really factored in. It seems the slushbox has finally given up the ghost or maybe needs to roast in eternal hellfire a bit more before doing so.

 

I do love an automatic in traffic.
90% of the time I drive my Subaru because it gets better milage and With500$ a month in child support and now 25% wage garnish for back taxes for California, The turck is going to sit for a while.
I'm already eating top ramen and peanut butter an jelly sandwichs every day and night even though im working 12 hour days.

Time to park it.

 

If your Catalyst isnt ready you might have a bad cat and could very possibly be a separate incident. DO you have a scanner to see if the ECT temp threshold is being met?
And another thing, I have seen solenoids fail even when new especially if aftermarket.

Plus since the guy who sold it had the trans rebuilt and then a TC 10K later something aint right, those should have been done at the same time as one can destroy the other if not.

Did it do this from the getgo or something that has developed over time?

 

I got a code reader. I can read codes and see the monitors I cant look at Temps

I have a engine temp sensor in my tool box I have not put on yet. It's the sensor that is in the front of the motor by the fuel rail. I might do that this weekend..


The Catalyst wont be ready untill I am able to to the Drive cycle toyota recomeds. I cant do that drive cycle with using the overdrivre.
Using the overdrive triggers the check engine light.

Temp Senor this weekend and hope for the best

 

I was able to find through a friend of a friend that will pass my smog but that will be about 250$

I'd like to fix the problem for reals

 

It shouldnt need OD to complete readiness test, are your cats stock, and how many miles? Had a customer recently with the same issue and ended up being the catalytic converter, but in some cases it can be a bad thermostat that wont get the engine hot enough either.

Try and go find some big ass hills to go up without overdrive, yes the RPMs will be high but give it a shot..

 

Your stock auto can handle a stock supercharger no problem, especially if it's been rebuilt. I have a shift kit in mine and no issues. Id say stock is good for like 300hp before issues then a shift kit is good for like 350-400 and if you wanna make 500hp the A304E can handle it with a different (performance) stall converter, or so I'm told.

 

Hi Jerry,
I just delt with that P0770 and the TC was the problem. My 01 Tacoma has 199k miles.
see this link for the scoop
https://www.yotatech.com/f2/tranny-issues-p0770-s-o-s-294937/

Ken

 

http://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...in-the-pump-pr-converter-cooler-lube-circuits

 

So... I went by the dealership service department with the main objective of finding an answer to the question "when does the A340 go into lockup mode?" Does it just happen in OD fourth gear conditions? The technician was unable to provide me with an answer. He was able to provide me with a printout from the ALLDATAPRO.COM library regarding troubleshooting a P0770 code. It had a whopping three steps and made no mention of throttle position sensors, ecu's coolant temp sensors or anything else mentioned in other "diagnostics".

The steps were as follows:
Check shift solenoid valve operation, OK - check valve body, OK - replace the torque converter clutch.

I did finally get the pan off my transmission. The fluid I had just flushed in there before it overheated on the highway was black and smelly. There was a shimmering stream of fine particles, probably less than half a teaspoons worth, and black sludge on the magnets. I took out the solenoid at the end of that long yellow wire. I hooked it up to the battery and it functions. I guess my next step is to pull the valve body and test it. Hmm... how does one test a valve body?

This is so much fun!

 

The instructions for performing a leak down test are within this thread
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2747-lockup-relay-valve-sleeve-kit

 

If you are popping the valve body off on a high mileage unit , I suggest the zip kit
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2764-zip-kit