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Tow Hitch Stuck in Reciever

Discussion in 'Towing' started by ToyotaRacingDev, Dec 13, 2018.

  1. Dec 20, 2018 at 8:09 AM
    #41
    96carboard

    96carboard Well-Known Member

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    Here's my list;

    1) Do NOT tie it to a tree. You will damage the tree, damage the truck, possibly kill yourself or someone else, and it won't do the job.
    2) Its beyond penetrating oil. Penetrating oil will only help AFTER you can get it do budge. If it won't move at all, then its sealed out.
    3) Big hammer is not a good solution.

    What you want to do to get that out SAFELY is this;
    First take the hitch OFF THE TRUCK.
    If the front side of the hitch tube is NOT OPEN, then you will need to cut an access hole in it.
    Put the hitch on a hydraulic press and press it out. If it doesn't move, apply heat.

    If it still doesn't move, cut the hitch tube out and weld in a new one.
     
    suppra87 likes this.
  2. Dec 20, 2018 at 8:24 AM
    #42
    nh_yota

    nh_yota Well-Known Member

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    When I have that problem I'll leave it attached to the trailer, pull the pin and drive forward, but that only works when it's just stuck and not seized into place. I don't leave the draw bar in the receiver for this very reason.

    If it's been in there for a while then rust has bonded it to the receiver and swelled it into place which is why hitting it with a hammer won't break it free. A handheld propane torch won't do shit because it can't generate enough heat. Spray it with your penetrating lube of choice every day for a week and then trying to break it loose. An air hammer also helps but you need to pull on it while hammering it so apply some tension with a come along and you might be able to slowly get it out little by little.
     
  3. Dec 20, 2018 at 8:25 AM
    #43
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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  4. Dec 20, 2018 at 8:30 AM
    #44
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    You're going to die!!! :goingcrazy: o_O
     
  5. Dec 20, 2018 at 8:39 AM
    #45
    96carboard

    96carboard Well-Known Member

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    You can also GREASE it to keep it from rusting solid. Just coat the heck out of everything with wheel bearing grease.
     
    cruisedon66 likes this.
  6. Dec 20, 2018 at 12:09 PM
    #46
    nh_yota

    nh_yota Well-Known Member

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    2" Lift with HS coils/AAL and 5100s, TRD Exhaust, TRD Skid Plate, URD Short Shift, AT3s
    I use Fluid Film but any grease will work.
     
  7. Dec 20, 2018 at 12:11 PM
    #47
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Yeah.
    This is what I do. I put grease on lots of stuff.
     
  8. Dec 20, 2018 at 2:54 PM
    #48
    MysticGold04

    MysticGold04 Active Member

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    I've been where you are. The only thing that worked for me was a trailer with a significant load and a slightly sloppy connector. The shock loads from starting, stopping, and bumps put forces on the receiver you cannot create any other way.

    Rent one if you have to. You will save time & money in the long run.
     
  9. Dec 20, 2018 at 3:02 PM
    #49
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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    Cut the tongue off almost flush with the end of the receiver. Then use a sawzall and cut lengthwise into one corner of the remaining hitch. Then using a chisel and hammer fold the cut sides into the center. Sometimes you have to cut more than one corner and sometimes every corner. You essentially hack the remaining tongue one side at a time until the whole thing loosens up enough to come out or you cut one piece out at a time.
     
    Skidog1 likes this.

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