Towing cross country

Moving from East Coast to Wyoming. Looking for any additional information people might have for things. Pulling uhaul's biggest enclosed trailer. It has automatic hydraulic brakes but I'm looking at adding a tow controller.

Not looking for the standard advice like "check tire pressures" but if anyone thinks a tow controller would make a world of difference or something like that pretty me know.

 

The U-Haul trailer doesn't require a brake controller. Adding one will provide no benefit for towing that trailer.

 

Not looking for standard advice but looking for information? Might want to be more specific.

 

Will you exceed the weight limits of the truck?

Have you towed distance before, as in driver experience?

At best plan for a longer trip from driving slower and double or triple your fuel budget.

 

if you mean a trailer brake control, the U Haul will not respond to it as it has a hydraulic surge brake..Make sure that when you load the trailer you have adequate tongue weight to avoid sway.

 

I assume you will have stuff in that largest trailer... that will likely be quite a load unless you are transporting popcorn... that also pushes a lot of air...

Have you considered getting a uhaul moving truck and towing the taco on a uhaul trailer?

 

It really depends on what you're packing. If it's bricks, it'll be running heavy. If it's furniture, it should be ok.

I often repeat the same things over and over when it comes to rental trailers. Namely, be diligent about the walk around. Bring your own tire gauge and check them before the rental agent hooks you up. Check the tires for condition, wear, dry-cracks, and damage. Grab the side of the trailer above each fender and shake it, you're looking to see if the wheels "clunk," indicating that the axle nut is loose. Make sure the rear doors open, close, accept a padlock, and have an intact weather strip. You're paying extra to take that thing across the country - be a picky Karen on checkout.

On the road, buy a 20 dollar temperature gun and stash it in your driver's door pocket. At every fill up, while you're pumping gas, do a walk around. Kick each tire, and take a temperature read of each hub. If you see a hub that's hotter than 115-120, or one that's more than 20 degrees hotter than the others... have it checked. That's an early warning that the bearings are dry.

Keep your cruising speed under 60 mph. Never ever exceed 65 even when passing. You would be surprised what the tire speed ratings are. Most trailer tires on the market are G or J rated (55-65 mph.) On my camper, I had to do some searching and pay a little more to find an L 75mph rated tire, and you had better believe that Uhaul fleet managers aren't paying that expense. Trailer problems multiply exponentially with speed.


The truck can handle those 6x12s with ease. Just be strategic about loading, so that the heaviest things are as low as possible and located halfway between the axle box and tongue (there will be an arrow sticker in the box that shows where). Loading and securing are everything, look up some tips and tricks to make sure you get it right.




Have fun.

 

^^^^

"Trailer problems multiply exponentially with speed."

This sums up towing perfectly.

 

It'll pull fine imho. I pulled same trailer loaded. Just make a list of every gas station on your route.

 

If you decide to get the redarc controller I highly recommend this cnc mount.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/my-redarc-tow-pro-liberty-install.773860/

 

Be mindful of your transmission temps too.

 

I'm assuming you have the tow package. If not, you need to add some stuff to your truck. Most importantly a transmission oil cooler. If you don't have the tow package either forget it or start adding stuff you need.

The 6X12 trailer is almost 2000 lbs empty and rated for about 2500 lbs for a total just under 4500 lbs. As long as you keep everything under around 4500 lbs I think you'll be OK. It would be easy to overload the trailer so be careful. Right around 4500 is the realistic limit for a Tacoma. Also, you won't be able to pull a 4500 lb trailer AND carry more than 200-300 lbs of cargo in the truck If you try to load up 700-800 lbs in the truck and pull a 4500 lb trailer you're asking for trouble. That is assuming just you as a driver in the cab. If one or more passengers are going, then you may be overweight with nothing in the truck.

Plan on around 10mpg overall. You might do a little better in some places, a little worse in others, but that is what I'd budget for, and plan fuel stops around.

When you get to higher altitude your engine will lose power due to the lack of O2 in the air. You start to notice it at 5000' or more. If you're going to get near or over 10,000' the difference is huge. You don't say where in Wyoming. Just be prepared to drop down to 3rd or even 2nd gear and run the engine at high rpm's to get over some mountain passes.

In areas of higher altitude regular gas is 85 octane, mid-grade is 87 and premium is 91. Stay with 87 at a minimum and 91 octane won't hurt. It's expensive, but you really need to stay with at least 87 when pulling a trailer at altitude. Don't hesitate to downshift to 3rd, 2nd or maybe even 1st gear coming down mountain passes.

 

A Brake Controller is only for Electric Brakes? How do Hydraulic Brakes get activated on the trailer?

 

Tow in 4th gear with ECT on
Check tire pressures regularly, at the very least every morning.

 

brakes on a U-Haul trailer called surge brakes. Long story short there was a coupling in the towbar. It has a mechanism that engages a master cylinder that hydraulically applies the brakes on the trailer.

 

defiantly not what OP calls "standard advice", good point though, as it appears the OP doesn't understand the different type of trailer brakes, or at least how they're used, but has been doing some research.

 

These trucks are expensive and expensive to repair. I think the idea mentioned before about renting a uhaul truck might be the better idea.

 

When the truck brakes are applied the trailer begins to "push" the truck. The push motion is proportionally applied (in theory ) to the master cylinder on the trailer actuating the trailer brakes, the harder the truck is stopping the harder the trailer brakes are applied.

The advantage being that the system is self contained on the trailer, any weight capable vehicle can pull it which is why rental companies use them.

Some disadvantages are that they require more maintenance and adjustment than electric brakes, respond in a less linear relationship to the truck and don't generally work in reverse.

 

In reality, my limited subset of statistics says that approximately 40% of the Uhaul trailers I have rented have had noticably effective surge brakes. I have rented Uhauls frequently.



Your mileage may vary.

 

Any chance you are in the military and pcs’ing? Might be able to help out with some stuff if you are ie 18 wheeler with my shop gear going to WY in April.