Towing with a 3rd gen

Don’t usually tow but did my bro in laws popup last weekend. MPG were shot dead. Probably worse than a Tundra.

 

Lower mpg than a Tundra while towing with hills/climbs can be expected.

In the flatlands I can get 17 mpg with a ~2800 lb travel trailer at 60-65 mph.. don't think many 2nd gen Tundras can claim that https://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/tundra/2020 (vs Tacoma: https://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/tacoma/2020 )

 

Yeah, but think of all the money you saved not raiding the hotel room mini-bar.

 

..or bringing bed bugs home.

 

You were in either the wrong truck for your needs from the outset, or just plain outgrew it over time due to changing towing requirements. You are unhappy when you're not towing anything, and exceptionally unhappy when you are... no matter how big or small the trailer and load.

ipso facto: You need a full-size truck. Pick one. Trade the Tacoma in towards the purchase. The dealer will know how to sell it. Reading here up to now, I'd recommend an F250 Super-Duty or equivalent with a gas V8 or any Diesel equivalent. Get the trailer tow package. Ask if there are any final drive ratio options available and or optional GVWR option. They are usually bargains for what you get. (like the Pro Trailer Back-up Assist) You could tow a triple-axle Holiday Stainless steel body house trailer with it.

Check out the last movie scene in "The Accountant".

 

Re: "Below it's Capability". I just saw this and I think it drew a comment by another member, but here is my initial 0.02 (cents):

What's the issue?

IMHO, capacity" is your friend when towing! Brakes, springs, shocks, final gear ratio, sway bars...Name IT: Never mind today's electronic and physical "Grandma's" (aux coolers, higher output alternators, etc that come with the modern tow packages.) Nothing like a wild west panic stop emergency when, after a pleasant "no issue" towing day, it's suddenly obvious that the object being towed is controlling the outcome, to make you a believer and suddenly you: "get religion."

There was a well known article in Trailer Life years ago about a driver with a full-boat extended Suburban K-something (K-300?) with full analog sway control on the hitch and electric brakes/brake controller towing a two axle Airstream that got flipped over from the wake of a passing semi doing 75mph. He was an experienced domestic USA traveler in the thing so no rookie here. He tried everything including manually applying the trailer brakes before the truck passed him. The leading and then trailing wake of the truck hit him, and flipped both the Suburban and the trailer upside-down...they were still hitched together afterwards.... No one hurt. Sobering.

 

Another .02

Here is another thing in my opinion that people overlook is the GAWR. It’s just not the towing capacity. Have your vehicle and trailer weighed so you know that you are legal. If there’s a serious injury accident and you are over the limits you can bet the lawyers will be all over this item.

 

We had a class C motor home...Never again. Noisy to be in when traveling, can't leave camp unless you pack up the motor home and our stick built leaked badly. We love setting up our trailer in camp and taking off to go exploring in the truck.

Good luck in your search for a rig that will work for you.

 

We love our Class C after working out the kinks since new. It's just that we don't use it enough to tie up $65k, currently, while it depreciates further. Would suit us better to just go back into a small towable. We tow a Wrangler so we're not campsite bound on most trips. Kind of a been there done that experience with it. Our last travel trailer was just as enjoyable.

 

Mostly upstate NY, PA, CT area. I know the roads well enough that I can avoid the higher grades on back roads. I'm not sure but I read about pinning the thermostat which I'd do. The air bag thing might be the way to go for me. I don't want a stiffer ride all the time only when towing if I could avoid it. Weight distribution hitch with sway control and brake box definitely.

 

OK two questions. First… Does the trailer sway constantly work or does it only kick in with loss of control? And… I sit a lot lower in the back loaded up the same as I do every year for our annual lake trip compared to old my Frontier. Are the leaf springs less robust than on the ‘03-‘22 Frontiers?

 

That looks like alot of squat. How much weight is on the hitch? That's what I'll need to avoid. I wouldn't tow comfortably like that. Air bags, weight distribution hitch etc. Can you adjust the winch point so the boat sits further back on the trailer. Actually i can see its welded in the pic. On some trailers you can adjust it further back so more weight sits on the trailer and balance it better

 

Yeah it’s never looked like this on the frontier. I was totally level with that truck. I guess I need to change out the leaf springs. There’s probably 300 pounds in the bed plus the tongue weight is probably 300 if I assume 10% of the weight of the boat on the trailer

 

Looks a little better at this stop maybe it was the angle of the road

 

Before adding air bags to a Tacoma I highly recommend folks research on line the experiences some of us have had, the very harsh ride over bumps when there is no load and the air bags are at there lowest setting, I just removed mine and went with the Road Active Suspension. I'm so glad to have a comfortable ride back.

 

My only concern with a leaf change is if it'll make the ride stiffer. I don't want to change the ride all the time when I'm only pulling 8 or 10 days per year. I have no experience with air bags but I'm assuming I can just fill them when needed then deflate them when I'm not.....The 300lbs in the bed is most likely the difference in your situation.

 

Late to the thread but what I can say is that while the Taco is mainly a lifestyle Truck, not all lifestyles mesh well. Wanna do some decent weight towing? Leave it stock. Even then it still needs help with the suspension.


Wanna have the rock crawling 35s for off roading, or just for looks ? Go for it but it will not play well when you need it to town. It also tanks your power.

I understand regearing is super expensive and may not solve your problem. How about an extra set of tires for towing. Something stock or close to it.
Also definitely get a tune. They help.

This is gonna be your best, cheapest solution. You can keep your 35s and still have a more capable truck when you need it to truck.

edit: rev that engine. It was designed for it.

 

Figured out why I looked a low in the pic above. I think I probably stopped and pulled the ebrake and the inertia pushed/pinched the hitch point before I gave it a chance to equalize. All good now

 

Take your stuff out of the bed and put it in the trailer.

 

RAS is the best! And maintenance free.