Toyota recalling 228,000 Tacoma's due to oil leaks and possible loss of control of vehicle

So I managed to access Toyota TIS. I did not see any documents about the rear differential whine yet.. But there are two documents detailing how to deal with the gasket recall. And the front differential TSB.

1) Being technical

2) For the dealer. It goes in depth on how the processes and claims should be handled with a flowchart and what code is applicable for the customer to obtain a rental car. I'll post these after work today.

I'm still looking around and will dig up whatever I can find. At least we can get these out here on a PDF so the dealers can't dick people around anymore. I'm sure they'll manage to find a way still..

 

the recall PDF's have been posted in this thread several times if that's
what you're referring to.

 

LEAK. took mine in for 10,000 service 7 weeks ago.. i saw weeping 1/4 as bad as yours. told them look at it ,and i said, i knew there is a recall , but i said im not on it , they comfirmed, i was not on it,, they ordered parts, they called 10 days a go, said parts are in, taking it to dealer friday am 8 am. they said about 3-4 hrs.... getting loaner for the day, not waiting that long.., go back sat am. and pick it up,, first problem with my pro,, 1 yr this month...

 

That's exactly what mine looks like and I was denied saying it was normal. Not a leak from the service manager's opinion.

 

I offroad my truck so I check fluids regularly. When I opened the rear, the axle was still pressurized and hissed after sitting for a day. I noticed Toyota uses the same style axle breather as the Meritor axle on military MTV's. They suck, they are notorious for failing to vent pressure up the the point the pinion seal literally pushes out. I've seen them hold so much pressure, the gear oil sprays out the fill plug when it's uncorked. I'm going to extend mine and get rid of that garbage breather.

This could very well be part of Toyota's problem. Surprised it hasn't been brought up in the recall.

 

At the time, I coudn't even get a residue smear onto a white cloth. It also didn't have a petroleum gear oil smell.

I took the pictures so I could have something to compare against if I had any new marks.

 

Funny that you mention that. I cracked open that fill plug and pressure was hissing out. I've never experienced that during a diff job.

 

They are full of crap....print out the TSB and the repair process and their definition of " leak, weep and seep". All are the same....leaking ...period.

 

Well today I took my truck back to dealer to perform the repair per Toyota procedures....what a different attitude!! My service advisor was ready,....took my truck and I asked them if they had all the pats and he replied they did. Asked if I could get loaner car for a few hours as I had some errands to run....no,problem. Got a new 4 Runner, it was nice.....Left truck at 0745, went to breakfast and the bank...Returned at 1000. At 1200 they called me to say it was ready...about 3/12 hrs.....This experience was so much different than the previous two...but I know I am on their shit list....

I am very sorry for all of you that have been without your truck for so long....don't know why I could get mine done in 2 weeks and you guys are still waiting....I did send pictures and emailed Jim Lentz though and got action within 24 hrs.....but....there is something really wrong with the system when you have to resort to writing the CEO to get appropriate action....but it worked for me.....my suggestion for some of you, if your truck is been hijacked for more than 30 days, go get it, take pictures, and then write email with pictures to the CEO....tell them your story and see what happens......it worked for me....

Now I will see if it works.

 

I'm willing to bet it's the real issue. Positive or negative pressure that can't get anywhere will find a way. Probably why people have leaks after the fix.

 

The fluid was BLACK also. Burnt I'm guessing without proper ventilation that'll cause a cooked fluid in combination with underfilled?

 

No, it's just a breather. When the fluid gets hot it expands, then contracts when it cools down. The air pressure has to be able to stay equalized. Contrary to popular belief on this forum, the color of the diff fluid really doesn't matter unless it's grey. That means it's aerated with water and no longer lubricating properly. Its what's attached to the magnet that matters. Black dust is normal. Large chunks are bad.

 

at the risk of sounding like a total noob; would the rear-diff breather mod help alleviate any issues with pressure build-up?

 

Depends on how you do it. I run all my breathers together with a couple T fittings and use a carburetor style fuel filter at the end, attached somewhere on the firewall. It's essentially an open, filtered breather instead of a crappy valve type currently on the truck.

 

I see a lot of people having it point out behind the tail light, but you put yours on the firewall. Is that a personal preference, or does it have an advantage over the tail light area? I'm about to do the upgrade on mine and it sounds like you know what you're doing, so I may follow suit

 

The firewall has always been the dryest, highest place on the truck I've found to run a breather. Even with water over the hood, firewall is usually still pretty dry. Ive seen the breathers routed into the cab and attached to the ceiling on snorkeled rigs. I wouldn't take my Toyota through water that deep though. I've been in water so deep, it poured out my heater vents. But that was a dedicated trail rig.

 

Haha. Trade my 16 in after 60 days down and 7 days later the parts show up and it's fixed.

At least I'm in a 4x4 now

 

you won't believe this.........just went out and looked at my truck after repair and new gasket.....there is supposed to be new studs and bolts installed per the r/o.....well, the pictures from the torquing event and Red RTV on the gasket that left red rvt on one of the studs is still there.....and the stud is in the exact location.....according to the shop foreman on the last visit, the red dot on the stud was from the factory....well if they replaced them, why is a red dot on the same stud? I do not think they did anything....the brass washers are still dirty and not shinny like new ones....I will be going back this time with my lawyer and pictures......

what do you guys think?

 

That's unbelievable...i usually use paint or a white pen to indicate what work was done, as I only know the correct orientation.

 

yea me too.....but there is nothing that really shows any work has been done.....especially since the shop foreman specifically said the red dot on the stud came from the factory.....i feel like i am going into the Lions den......i was going to call corporate first and let them know but i don't want to give my hand away.....I think i should just go and ask some questions and ask that the truck be put on a lift and then show pictures and let them look at the "new" studs.....