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Toytec Coilover Isses

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by dtrujillo63, Dec 6, 2008.

  1. dtrujillo63

    dtrujillo63 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So today I installed a toytec coilover conversion kit and some total chaos UCAs. I'm using bilstein 5100s with the ring set to stock height. According to the installation instructions, to achive a 3" lift, you need to set the coilover adjuster above 1" of thread from the bottom (in other words, there needs to be 1" of thread below it). When I put everything back together, the truck only had about a 1" lift??? I then set the coilover adjuster to sit above 1.5" of thread and it only gave me a total of 1.25" lift? The instructions say NOT to set the coilover adjuster any higher then that. Now my 265/75/16 tires are rubbing like crazy. They never use to rub when I had just the 5100s set at 2.5". Am I doing something wrong? Am I reading the instructions wrong? Was I suppose to set the coilover adjuster below 1" of thread from the top? Sorry if this doesn't make any sense.
     
  2. LonghornTaco

    LonghornTaco Can you pass the bailout please?

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    No, set it to 1" of thread BELOW the large adjuster nut. Not sure, off the top of my head, what could be wrong.

    Can you post some pics of what you've got?

    Also, what are your tires rubbing "on" now?
     
  3. dtrujillo63

    dtrujillo63 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here are some pictures. Right now my truck looks fugly with that nose dive! BTW, the rear has the TSB + Toytec TSB AAL.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. LonghornTaco

    LonghornTaco Can you pass the bailout please?

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    3" ToyTec coilover lift on Bilstein 5100s, Total Chaos UCAs, ToyTec diff drop, Scangauge II, 4D MagLite mounted on the drivers seat, Painted engine cover, Painted calipers (red), Painted skid plate (red) Valentine 1 radar detector hard wired, Damplifier Pro on the floor, back wall and doors, Luxury Liner Pro on the floor and doors, Kenwood DNX8120, 2 Pioneer TS-SW1041D 10" shallow mount subs, 2 Pioneer PRS-D4200F 1200W amps, Mr Marv sub enclosure, Hybrid Audio Clarus 6.5" components in the front doors, Alpine 5.25" coaxials in the rear doors, A.R.E. LSII fiberglass tonneau cover, All Pro bumper, All Pro sliders, Wet Okole seat covers, Sockmonkey Mountain badges, PIAA 510 SMR Driving Lights, Warn M8000 Winch, Bud Built skids
    Don't know dude. Call Doug at ToyTec and talk to him about it. They were really helpful with mine.

    The only difference between your setup and mine is I am using their machined aluminum top plate rather than the stock top plate.
     
  5. dtrujillo63

    dtrujillo63 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Damn... does everything look right to you?

    As far as the tires rubbing, It sounds like they are rubbing on the fender where the mud flaps would normally be.
     
  6. LonghornTaco

    LonghornTaco Can you pass the bailout please?

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    3" ToyTec coilover lift on Bilstein 5100s, Total Chaos UCAs, ToyTec diff drop, Scangauge II, 4D MagLite mounted on the drivers seat, Painted engine cover, Painted calipers (red), Painted skid plate (red) Valentine 1 radar detector hard wired, Damplifier Pro on the floor, back wall and doors, Luxury Liner Pro on the floor and doors, Kenwood DNX8120, 2 Pioneer TS-SW1041D 10" shallow mount subs, 2 Pioneer PRS-D4200F 1200W amps, Mr Marv sub enclosure, Hybrid Audio Clarus 6.5" components in the front doors, Alpine 5.25" coaxials in the rear doors, A.R.E. LSII fiberglass tonneau cover, All Pro bumper, All Pro sliders, Wet Okole seat covers, Sockmonkey Mountain badges, PIAA 510 SMR Driving Lights, Warn M8000 Winch, Bud Built skids
    Looks like it to me, but "something" has to be wrong. It's almost as if your truck is LOWER in the front than stock...
     
  7. chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    4.10 gears, sliders, lots of buttons, and yellow flashing lights on the dash.
    Its gotta be 1" from the TOP of the adjusting coller (the threaded part).
     
  8. LonghornTaco

    LonghornTaco Can you pass the bailout please?

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    Doug told me it's 1" "of thread" below the adjusting nut to the bottom.

    [​IMG]

    But, Chris is a pretty smart guy... :)
     
  9. rick

    rick `

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    do you have the top plate spacer? or you can drive down to AZ and have chris fix it for you. :)
     
  10. dtrujillo63

    dtrujillo63 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I would have to agree, I always heard you can run 265/75/16s on a stock suspension without any problems and right now its rubbing like crazy. So your probably right, its lower then stock.

    It deffinantly looks like it, are you 100% sure about this :eek:?

    If I read it correctly, that's what it said. That's how you do it and it gave you 3"s right?

    I used the stock top plate, I only ordered the conversion kit.
     
  11. chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    4.10 gears, sliders, lots of buttons, and yellow flashing lights on the dash.
    If everything else is installed properly ( I cant see where the adjusting clip is on the shock in the pics), then thats the only thing it could be.
     
  12. stevigee

    stevigee It's a MOD, MOD World

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    Im running 265/75-16 on my stock suspension with tsb and theres no rubbing.
     
  13. roxspin72

    roxspin72 Enjoying my addiction

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    I dont have this set up yet but deffinately will get one next month. Already been talking to the guys at Toytech because I noticed that even though I dont have the 5100's yet; I could order all the parts seperate and save lots of money.

    Well, the guys at Toytech said performance is the same with the conversion kit and the billies, but I would have to set up myself and Billet aluminum top plate will not be included.

    I am definately interested in this thread because I was wondering a couple days ago if the top plate made the capability for 3.5" lift or not. Billies only level 2.5" on there own. What helps get the full aditional inch w/the Coilovers???

    Hope Chris, the guys from Toytech, or anyone can help out dtrujillo63, so we can sort out the facts for future installs.

    Good luck.
     
  14. LonghornTaco

    LonghornTaco Can you pass the bailout please?

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    3" ToyTec coilover lift on Bilstein 5100s, Total Chaos UCAs, ToyTec diff drop, Scangauge II, 4D MagLite mounted on the drivers seat, Painted engine cover, Painted calipers (red), Painted skid plate (red) Valentine 1 radar detector hard wired, Damplifier Pro on the floor, back wall and doors, Luxury Liner Pro on the floor and doors, Kenwood DNX8120, 2 Pioneer TS-SW1041D 10" shallow mount subs, 2 Pioneer PRS-D4200F 1200W amps, Mr Marv sub enclosure, Hybrid Audio Clarus 6.5" components in the front doors, Alpine 5.25" coaxials in the rear doors, A.R.E. LSII fiberglass tonneau cover, All Pro bumper, All Pro sliders, Wet Okole seat covers, Sockmonkey Mountain badges, PIAA 510 SMR Driving Lights, Warn M8000 Winch, Bud Built skids
    This is what I thought and it's how I ordered all my parts. You can
    save money if you use your stock top plate and don't order theirs ($150) but it means you have to take your stock stuff off, have the springs compressed to remove the plate, then have the new set assembled. However, when I did mine, I wanted a complete swap. Take the stock stuff off then bolt on the new stuff.

    Here's how mine broke down:
    Adjustable coilovers - $429
    Full set of 5100s - $269
    Machined top plate - $150
    Shop assembly for coilovers - $40
    Total - $888

    That's about $80 more than the complete coilover kit ToyTec sells and I ended up with the rear shocks too. However, if I were to do it over, I would just buy the complete coilovers from ToyTec. It was a hassle trying to find a shop to put them together, run around getting stuff done, etc... Now, don't buy the top plate and save yourself $150 and it may be better with separate parts. Just my opinion on the "buy the parts separate to save money" idea, cause I had it.

    As far as I know, the top plate doesn't make a difference on lift height. You get all your lift from preloaded springs. You don't set the 5100s to 2.5 then get the extra inch from the coils... You set the 5100s at stock height and get all the lift from the springs.

    Also, a word of caution... Don't set the coilovers all the way to 3.5". Even with the diff drop, your CV joint angle is going to be too high.
     
  15. dtrujillo63

    dtrujillo63 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Man... this really sucks. I have no idea what could be wrong. I know both my tires are rubbing and I also keep hearing all type of ugly noises :confused:. The tires already rubbed the paint off my inner fenders :mad:. Is it possible that I might have the UCAs installed wrong? Can that cause these issues?

    Here is how I assembled my shocks/coilovers. From top to bottom:

    Nut
    Washer
    Rubber Boot
    OEM Top Plate
    Washer
    Coil/Spring
    Toytec Coilover Body
    5100 (Lowest Setting)
     
  16. dtrujillo63

    dtrujillo63 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I think I just figured it out, I was looking at loghorn's installation pictures and I noticed a huge difference!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    [​IMG]


    HOW THE #$&! did this happen? I set the clip to the lowest setting and that's where toytecs body landed.
     
  17. Ridingontrd

    Ridingontrd Well-Known Member

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    Marking this for more info.:)
     
  18. chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    Looks like the threaded adjuter part is not mounted correctly. Pull them off and re do them.
     
  19. roxspin72

    roxspin72 Enjoying my addiction

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    Thanks for the heads up... Yeah I want to go 3.25". Get the front diff drop in. This should give me a 1' lift over my Ready lift spacers I am now using.

    One quick question; What machining did you have to do to top plate, and are you talking about the stock one?
     
  20. LonghornTaco

    LonghornTaco Can you pass the bailout please?

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    Don't look at mine as a reference... I did mine wrong. The instructions I got were apparently "old" and it told me to set the 5100s to the second setting (.85") then adjust the nut to 1" of thread. However, this lifted my front end almost 4.5"!!! :eek: BAD!

    Anyway, I called Doug and he told me I could leave my shocks set where they were, just adjust the nut all the way down. So, rather than pay to have them assembled again, that's what I did and I've got just over 3" (~ 3.15-3.2") of lift. But, I never took anymore pictures of it after I adjusted them down.

    That's why I didn't post pictures of my setup in this thread... :p

    But, something else seems to be wrong in this whole setup for you, so I would call Doug tomorrow and chat with him about it and see what he says.

    Here are some "better" pictures of someone that set them properly (unlike me...). This is silver07taco:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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