Tpp4's No Nonsense Guide to Kicker Key T-Harness (16-19)

not really. Truck stays in the garage (insulated) most of the time.

I’ll read up on how to set the gains, once I get it installed.

cool, I’ll try this then.

 

Thanks guys! This has been fun so far. I built the harness and got the thumbs up from Destin_Meeks. He was a big help. The Sub should be in sometime this week and I will start the install. In the picture that I attached should I run the blue remote wire from the sub and tie it into the blue wire where I drew the arrow in the picture?

 

Yep

 

Quarantine has gotten the best of me and I'm needing something to do to keep me sane. So this is going to be my next project. Thank you to everyone in this thread. Shout out to @tpp4 and @destin_meeks. You guys have been more than helpful to many on the forum.

Just to clear up any confusion I have before I start buying parts. I can build the harness exactly as @tpp4 has outlined in the original post to power the door/tweeter speakers? I dont ever plan on adding a sub. I feel like I've seen several variations of the harness depending on everyone's needs. I want to confirm which instructions and pictures to reference.

I live in az and want to install the amp in an open spot to avoid overheating, either under the seat or even behind the rear seat. Maybe a stupid question, all I have to do is extend whatever wires connect to the amp? Any issues going under the seat or behind the rear seat?

Thanks again, I'm super pumped to do work on the truck again.

 

Agreed, @tpp4 and @destin_meeks are awesome for sorting out the questions you may have in this thread. I started off with just the speakers in this thread and have to say it is a slippery slope. You might just add the Key Amp and Hideaway Sub like I did. You can use some speedwire to help you run the amps to another location. I purchased mine off eBay and found it to be very good quality wire, I still have about 15 feet of it so if I upgrade in the future I am good to go. Loving the sound I am getting now off the OEM HU. You will not be disappointed. Good luck with your project and have fun, be safe also.

 

I did the same. Works great there and when I pulled it out to check after coming home from work it was warm to the the touch after being on 45 volume for 30 minutes. I doubt you will have much trouble with it.

 

Does anyone on here have the Alpine unit installed? I have it working fine but I can not turn the radios power off when truck is on it just turns back on. I am not sure if I need a relay or something got messed up with wiring. The only difference with this and the kicker unit is the Alpine has a remote turn on passthrough that I am using for another amp for subs. Any help.

 

My original post is for running just the door/tweeter speakers. There is plenty of space to run it under the HU, under the passenger airbag, or under either seat. If you want to run it under a seat, you will need to pickup speedwire and lengthen your t-harness.

 

Awesome thanks!! Im gonna install under the passenger seat, no issues with extending the power and ground wires from the kicker key to the yellow and black wires to the Metra harness? I've got my harness already built, just trying to avoid any electrical issues.

In previous vehicles, I always ran my power wire on opposite sides of the car from the speaker wire and always grounded as close to the amp as possible. Thanks again, this thread was a HUGE help!!

 

I can't imagine that it would cause an issue, but @destin_meeks would know better.

 

I’ve always ran my power wire on the opposite too. I did it in this truck as well. I have always been told non-shield wires can cause issues down the road. This was the theory way back when I first started installing audio in my vehicles and friends vehicles also. It may have been some BS but it is not hurting anything to do it like this.

 

Definitely wasn’t BS back then, and that can still hold true today. It most often comes down to the RCA cables. Back in my shop, it got to the point where I wouldn’t even use the RCA’s that came in any of the cheap kits (boss, Rockville, power akoustic, etc) because you could almost guarantee there would be noise in the system. Then I’d have to spend another hour ripping them out and replacing them. I’d throw in even the basic Kicker RCA’s and all noise would be gone.

I typically had no problem running subwoofer RCA’s next to 4awg power, but would run them on opposite sides for larger power wire. I would also always run them on opposite sides for 4ch amps. This was also simply due to space. The average setup would be 4awg power, 6 channels of RCA, and then speed-wire that was the size of 4awg. Trying to do all that down the same side of a car was usually not feasible, so power went down whichever side the battery was on, and audio signals went down the other side.

 

My other thought is if someone is too lazy or not capable removing trim from both sides of a vehicle, they probably should not be working on the Audio portion of their vehicle. Just a thought though.

 

I just ordered my CS series front and rear door speakers & Kicker Key 200. Curious if anyone can tell me if there would be any advantage to running the kicker tweeters directly off of the head unit and wiring the two sets of door speakers off of the kicker key 200. Or would it not make much of a difference to just run all four speakers off the four channels of the Key?
I was so impressed with the kicker tweeters I had to take the next step. I have the non-JBL audio system. Thanks for any input.

 

Run it all off the key. The tweeters will absolutely be overpowered by the doors if you try and run them off the head unit. Not to mention it will add a decent amount of additional wiring

 

Thanks destin_meeks, I appreciate the input! Thanks to you and the OP for so much excellent info!

 

Think I might build a "bi-amp harness" and test this out. COVID has me bored... but I have 3.5's up there and just saw the new Kenwoods that are a 6x9 woofer/3.5. Bypass the crossover and let the key do the work.

So anyone wondering a new harness from Kicker is only $25; I reached out to them.

 

I’m glad they finally sell them. I reached out right when the key came out and they didn’t offer them.

If you don’t need power to the rears, then bi-amp those fronts and get some volume!

 

The out put on the rears just isn't there like I wanted out of the key and I've adjusted it sooooo many times. It sounds great don't get me wrong but I want to suck every inch out of it. I think the key performs better in those more flat or "harmonious" setups but Toyota likes to shove it all up front off the factory deck.

 

See my post #67. You will want to do exactly what I did for install under passenger seat. Works great and I defiantly don’t need a sub after tuning.


edit- I used a 12 gauge amp install kit from Crutchfield for power and ground. And the 2 RCAs were to add the sub later. They tap in before the key.