Trac off and check engine light on dash!

OK I have been monitoring this issue and the codes and check engine light have not returned.
I think I know now what caused the problem to show up unexpectedly.
I had stopped for gas at the mobil station on the way back from that trip of 60 miles.
I had removed the gas cap to fill up and the pump would not accept my card.
So I decided to go home and fill up at another station. I still had a 1/4 tank.
I bet I did not tighten the gas cap all the way to the click.
Because the next time I started the truck was after I washed it and then the codes
and check engine light came on. During the time I posted on here for answers I did drive
to a few places. Then got gas. After I reset the codes. it has not returned.
So I bet it was a loose gas cap that caused all of this.

 

I would say that is probably what caused it.
EVAP System are definitely no fun to work on.

 

Even if so, don't sleep on the air pump issue that's been mentioned..especially if you qualify for the recall.

 

The parts for the diverter valve and 2 gaskets were quoted at $535. 86 w/o labor.
it would have been a me install them . So I dodged that bullet.

 

This. The traction control is disabled anytime there is an issue that can affect engine control by the ECM. That is because traction control depends on the ECM being able to control speed/throttle in the event of lost traction. If the system sees anything that might affect that capability, it disables traction control automatically.

 

Yup. Not necessarily Toyota specific, I had an Oldsmobile with traction control that did the same thing.

 

The fact that 1 of the codes was for a slight leak led me to realize that if the gas cap was loose
and not completely sealing as it should would mimic the same effects as a slight leak in the system.
After the cap was tightened to the click the system sealed and things returned to normal.
I've driven well over 100 miles since I reset the codes, started an stopped at least a half dozen times
from dead cold to fully warmed up and all is well.

 

The other side to this is the fact the computer cannot see what's wrong it only
detects something is not right or out of spec. It triggers a code or codes based
on what parameters have been targeted. In the event of a leak in the Evaporative
emissions anything along the route could set the codes. Gas cap, Fuel hose
between gas cap and the gas tank, any of the rubber hoses and or connection clamps,
Air pump, Diverter valve, etc.

Similar to how the O2 sensor in the exhaust tells the computer how lean or rich the mixture is.
If a hole or crack anywhere in the exhaust system (upstream of the sensor)
will allow abnormal air flow to effect the system and will cause running issues and trigger CEL.

 

OP - take a look at my posts in this thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dreaded-p2443-pending.583826/page-2

Sounds like same issue I just had on my 2012, fixed for no charge by local dealer. I would have a dealer run your VIN & see what they say - evidently this code can potentially put the truck into limp mode if not dealt with.
Good luck with it.

 

Yes I have monitored this thread as well. where I got the P2440 and P2442 codes.
Nothing has changed except the fact I got gas and tightened the gas cap to the first click.
Since then everything has been perfect. I expected it might return but so far is running
as good as it has been since March of this year or about 2500 miles.

 

FWIW - I got the P2443 code and took it to the dealer the next day which was a Friday. They ordered all the parts in & by the time I dropped it off on Sunday the CEL & Trac lights had been gone since Saturday evening. The service rep said it did not matter that the lights had gone out but was probably due to moisture in the system which dried itself out in a couple days.

 

See at first I thought water from the hose when washing it might have affected it .
But never before has such a thing happened after a wash. Being the engine bay heat
tends to dry stuff out I would residual moisture would dry up rather quickly.

 

I went down a Google rabbit hole when the lights came on & scanned it for the code - I realized after a couple hours I was not going to figure it out & decided a 5 minute call to the dealer may be a better use of time! Service rep ran my VIN over the phone, put me on hold for 2 mins, came back and asked if I could bring it in. My office is close to the dealership, they had it in back for 10 mins before he said all covered, parts ordered, can you bring it back Monday or Tuesday.
Like I said in the other thread, not sure if I have the right VIN/date combo or if the dealer can play some recall games but the 5 minute call to the service department answered more questions than any internet search and me banging my head against the wall trying to figure it out......
I really would just call the dealer and tell the service rep about the codes and ask them to run your VIN, you may get lucky like I did & it only takes a few minutes.

 

Your situation is a little bit different than mine. Dealer I trust is always very busy
and due to Covid are only taking appointments. Phones calls are a ring off the hook
type affair. My truck is not stock and has the after market filter mod and High flow
Cold air intake on it. With the alterations I doubt they would agree a free fix
is in order. The only other vehicle we have is my wifes car and she's limited
on her drive distance. I do have a motorcycle.

 

Understood, I am not going to be any help in trying to diagnose or fix yourself, sorry.
I envy the year round motorcycle weather though - I lived in Ft Lauderdale for 12 years and do miss it when it gets cold up here!
If you just want to get an answer from a dealer I can DM my service rep's card, he may be able to run your VIN just to see what comes up - I do live in a much less populated area and they do not seem as busy.
Good luck with it though!

 

Thanks for the offer. I'm going to hold the coarse steady and keep monitoring things.
I'm learning more every day about this gen II tacoma. Which is very helpful.
and even in a worse case scenario I have the tools and ability to fix it myself.
Should the repair devil shine his eyes on me.
But currently no can of worms to open. So I'm good Thanks

 

I had the same happen last week after I detailed my engine....got code 1613, secondary air injection driver.

disconnected connector and blew it out and added di-electric grease. Also took off and put back on gas cap because that was listed. Disconnected battery and reconnect...

All gone

 

See it can be easy and free to fix. SOME TIMES Good job !