Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Boat Engines, & Flood Control.

Popped the engine out this morning. Just as suspected. Keyway was sheared.

 

That big, orange can made a great handle when grunting that motor around the table.

 

EZ fix

 

Finally, a good use!
Although I think Steve's lights would be a real money maker.

 

All this oil change on mower talk, I looked Saturday at my mower. All I mow is our yard, I change the oil every spring and since last spring I've put 18.2 hours on it. I figured it would have been more than that but we were pretty dry last summer and it only takes me about an hour to mow. I did get leaves up with it 4 times too.

 

Put wheel weights on bx2380.
Still feels like a high center of gravity but better.

It's 2 thick steel discs, 1 smaller diameter than other, welded together.

My grandpa made these weights in the 70s for better traction using a snowblower attachment. I just had to get longer bolts and shims and grind down a back corner so they would nest nicely in the rim. And paint of course, couldn't have that faded old jd yellow on an orange machine.

 

Cleaned the engine up before putting the flywheel back on.

For buying 12 years old, it didn't seem that grimy.

The build date for the mower is 2010-11.

The decal on the engine says build date of 201(3)?. There was damage to the decal.

 

I can't decide if I want replace the queer " quick drain" valve on this motor. These fuckers always leak, thus coating the chassis with engine oil. Oddly enough, this one was actually leak free.

I have a 3/8" hydraulic hose ready to install if I want to do this.

 

I had no idea the Frame 3600 filter was the same as our 3614. That thing had got to be a 1/3 longer than the 3614. I bet close to another 1/3 quart of oil can be held in this engine.

Now I'm curious if this filter will fit my Tacoma.

 

I remember your past experiences with them.
I have the same quick drain on the Courage engine in my ZT, not convenient to get to.
It doesn't leak because I have never used it, I have always used the oil extractor.
I raise the away side and after the initial vac out I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and vac any remaining oil out.

 

I've heard people complain about those valves but I've had 4 machines with them, always used them, and never had a problem with them.

 

Yeah, I'm thinking I might leave this for the next owner.

I do like my vac extractor, too

 

Damn straight! I have had mine going on 30 years, makes OPE service a breeze.
Great for older automatic transmissions that didn't have a drain plug in the pan too. I still remember the days of making a red waterfall trying to pop the pan just enough to drain it -- it never went well.

 

I've got 1 ZT that I thought that valve was ok. While it sat for the last 2 months I found it leaking.

I was getting ready to list it for sale and I found the leak.

I guess I have to replace that valve with a hydro hose and cap before I put it to the road.

Oh, well. Better than getting a call from the buyer complaining about oil leaking in their drive.

I know Kohler put those valves on engines that went on many different machines. The layout on these Toro's just doesn't make them very convenient. You have to attach a hose to the nipple, turn the valve 1/4 turn, then the oil has to travel laterally 8" before it can go to a pan or bucket.

Like Russ said " the extractor is the way to go".

 

My Bobcat welder has one, never had a problem with it leaking. Hope I never do!

 

Motor is back in. Test ran for 30-40 seconds as I only was gonna sacrifice 1 qt of oil on an an engine that I have not heard run.

The engine started right up with no choke needed. Zero smoke like I expected on a 4000 hour machine that had been sitting for 15 months. I figured the valve guides had to be leaking a little. I guess not.

I still need top install a few covers and anchor the electric clutch. When those free ride with the motor, they Hella shake the chassis! Oops!

I wanted to snap a shot of it running, but was worried about that clutch grabbing the wire harness.

Pretty happy it runs so well. I'm still doubtful that it is the original engine.

Regardless, $1.50 to replace the key was a "gimme".

 

Glad you got it going man. Congrats!

 

Still have to test the hydros. Hopefully they are solid.

 

If you don't want to go Fram route, here's the part numbers for Hasting's. Regular size on left obviously...

 

Who makes Hastings filters, any idea?


Fram?