Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Boat Engines, Flood Control, & Census.

Dealer strength, network and also parts availability is key. If there is only one dealer within a reasonable distance that would concern me.

If that dealer is only a one or two man show now you are really on thin ice.

 

Finally got the repair job done. New voltage regulator. 1k RPM gets me awesome voltage.

 

just got to check it out a little. 11.8V on the battery, and 12.1V while running.

 

That's not enough. It's not charging. Like said, check fuse 1st.

 

The only fuse I see without taking the cover off the motor itself is still fine. I have replaced it before when the mower wouldn't start at all. I only have 12.2V coming from the voltage regulator though. Ive never messed with charging systems so I have no idea where to go after that. after watching a video of how to check the charging system, I do have 45V AC coming to the plug that plugs into the regulator. so I think its fine going in, but bad coming out? could that just be a corroded ground?

 

Could be the battery is bad not taking a charge, may need to have it tested like others said

 

yea ive got a new one already, but was just following yall's leads to see if it was something with other parts gone bad.

 

You can check and clean the grounds easily, some of them have a ground wire for the regulator, make sure it is attached to metal not plastic.

Since you have good voltage from the engine the regulator might be bad.

 

Do you know how to check continuity?
The voltage regulator body needs to be grounded to the block.
make sure there is good contact between the body of the voltage regulator and the block.
The VR is attached to the shroud, which is plastic. Often there is a little pigtail wire coming from the VR to the block. If continuity is good good, I'd say you have a bad VR. $16 or so and easy to change.

 

Why did I type this? Russ beat me to it.

 

Ok this has me scratching my head.
B-S autochoke guaranteed start OHV 163cc engine. It has a plastic carb.

The engine will run for 2 minutes when cold. Shut off, start right back up and immediately die again. Took apart the carb but couldn’t find any obvious issues. Everything looks clean.

start it back up and mow the 16x40 fenced section of yard and it dies mowing the last 12 feet again! Pulled it and it started and died again. What am I missing?

 

could there be a crack that only opens after a certain temp on that carb? had a chainsaw that wouldn't stay running and I replaced the intake tube that it had (which had a crack in it) and it fixed it. it was just allowing a little too much air into it at certain times causing it to die.

 

I checked continuity earlier and it was 0.3? im not sure what the acceptable range is, but there was continuity.

 

That's a good number.

Can you take a pic of the tag on the side of the engine? It should say Kohler Command and some numbers/letters after that.

CH 750-0026 is the number of the unit I was working with. Yours will be similar if it's a Kohler Command engine.

CH means Command, horizontal shaft.

CV means Command, vertical.
With that number you can figure which voltage regulator is used on that engine

 

Is the gas cap vented? Is it venting?

 

There’s no vacuum or pressure when I pull the cap. It’s been on and off a bunch trying to figure out the issue.

 

That's all I got man.

 

Could be. However it’s not racing rpm it’s acting like a two stroke that runs only until the prime is lost, aka the fuel pickup is clogged or the main jet.

I guess I should find a diagram for the carb to sort out the carb plastic pieces for this auto choke, and also see if there is a blockage in the fuel tank.

 

Cv23s is my model code.