Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Boat Engines, & Flood Control.

Quick list of what it needs:

This does run, I have not tested the charging system. Found out this was an original 72" decked machine, it now has a 60", not worth bitching about. I don't like the 6 footers anyways. This now has a Kohler Command 25 hp, the original was a 28 HP Kawasaki, again nothing to bitch about.

Gave it a quick power wash, kinda confused why the fuel tanks were painted black, the black powered off like it was water color. No biggie.

Pictures to help me keep track of the parts and labor it will need.


New seat-obviously

new muffler. She crackles pretty good

New front tire

New gear motor (included with the purchase-hope its the correct one)

Missing the PTO cover (easy fab work)

Deck with have to be cleaned/ de rusted/painted

Kohler and Kawasaki have different wiring, will have to clean up the cobble job.










Ran the engine. Motor puts out 14 volts at high idle. Pleased to find that out.

 

My two workhorses. Ford 640 for shreddin and draggin. And a John Deere 310a for whatever else. The 640 is ridiculously simple but the JD needs a lot of hydraulic work.

 

Ugh..might be time to upgrade my tractor. I have a Murray 42" with the 17HP Briggs/Stratton. Battery was old so I replaced it about 3 months ago.

Today I go to start it and it's drained, turns very slow. OK I know the drill, I go grab my battery booster. No dice. Now it just gives me one click. Tried to jump it off my truck and same result, can't get any more than one click.

 

Starter toast? Should kick over with truck I'd think?

 

My thought too, I left it on the truck for a good 6 minutes before trying it.

I'll have to dig more but if it's where I think, it might suck getting to it. Doesn't have a pull cord to try it that way unfortunately..

 

Can you take out the spark plug and spin the engine by the flywheel safety cover? Have you tested battery voltage? You can also verify the relay is bad by crossing the contacts using an insulated screwdriver that I’ll probably weld and arc but will eliminate the key being bad and the starter. Another way to do it is to take a jumper cable from the + directly to the starter, it will spin the engine over if the starter is not bad. Don’t clamp it to the starter it should just need a touch to prove the starter spins.

 

fellas, whats the best choice for fixing a slow leak in a garden tractor front tire? its tubeless. can i use spray foam inflator and drive it a while? or do i take this to a tire shop? thanks!

 

Does it for flat in 1day, 1 week or 1 month? If it’s longer than a week just inflate it as necessary. If it’s less than a day take it to a tire shop they might just tube it.

 

Check the rim with soapy water, if it leaking there prob rust on bead. Check valve stem also if its leaking there also will have to get new valve stem

 

I’d try to figure out where the leak is coming from and how fast it’s leaking. Because how fast and from where it is leaking makes a difference on what I’d recommend you do.

 

Haven't checked battery volt. It is only 3 months old, plus it wouldn't change from attempting to jump start with my booster or truck. Hoping to get to digging in tomorrow, but have to cover my pool first

 

i just used an ounce of a tire sealer and positioned the tire to have the goop pass over the hole. Been good for two years. A major tire repair I don’t think is worth it and a tube would be a better choice.

 

Either solenoid under dash or the starter motor itself.
Ground jumper cable on base of motor, touch positive to the lug on side of starter, if it doesn’t spin like a new battery then the starter is the issue. Bonus points for having key on and ready to mow once it starts.
Brute force lump start

 

I used a socket on a drill to start my mower for a while till I got the replacement starter in.

 

Here is a hitch adapter I made for the road towable wood chipper to pull behind the garden tractor.

There are no mods to the chipper, the bolt is where the original chintzy stand went, remove it and uncouple the ball and it is ready to go on the road.

 

Update:

Previous owner told me the hydraulic wheel motor was shot.

Oddly enough, I have not had a bad wheel motor. Pumps and hoses, yes.

Took the hub off this one and found the half moon key sheared.

$2.45, serious uggu dugga with the windy gun and the unit moves and runs like a pretty new unit.

In addition, scored a take off Exmark seat for $40...and it's a suspension seat!

 

Score one for the good guys!!

 

Like I said, it's better to be lucky than good.

 

So, not completely lawn mower or tractor related, but gas powered nonetheless.

Friend did a stupid today, not sure if you can really spot it.



That you see is oil dripping from the gas tank of this chainsaw. Yea, put bar and chain oil in the gas tank...

Cleaned that out really good and thought to myself "wonder where the gas went?"

Yea, in the oil tank

So after cleaning out both tanks, it runs and oils without issues. Smoked like a bong for a couple minutes, but I gave er' the ol' rev-up-tune-up...