Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

Many times when troubleshooting I break out the old style incandescent bulb test light. A meter is just about zero load and just a tiny connection will read voltage.

The old style bulb test light actually loads the circuit to light the bulb and a tiny marginal connection won't carry the amps to do it.

A common 1156 reverse light bulb works good, you might just have everything in a junk box under the workbench to build one if you (like me) have pack rat tendencies.

Another home made tool I use is a little piezo buzzer (from Radio Shack years ago) with alligator clips, handy for those times when where it is switched is away from where you want to test like a fuel pump circuit for example.

 

I'm with you, Russ.

I really hate using my Fluke for more than checking continuity. My Radio shack analog is the shit for finding voltage. If the needle moves, you found 12 volts.

Unlike the Fluke, that thing is reading ghost voltage out of thin air.

The audio feature is nice on the Fluke for finding continuity, though.

 

A lot of it depends on how tough the roots are. If you are adding teeth it adds more leverage to bend your stuff. Take it easy and you should be okay, I would think

 

I decided it was more economical to make the current 5x8 trailer better than to buy a whole new one.

Tires - Loadstar 5.30-12 K353
Fenders
Coupler 2"
Remove 75lb+ gate
Build a removeable tailgate
Cut the 60" composite tongue (straight 2" x 2" x 3/16" tube with angles to about 36") down to probably 48" or so.

60" is only good for 1,200lbs
48" is good for 2,360lbs
​

Measuring for drop hitch as well. I just learned, after years and years of towing, that nose down is more stable than nose up. Level is preferred. This trailer sits nose up and a shorter tongue will exacerbate this.


See Trailer tongue calculator https://www.tnttt.com/Design_Library/tear84.htm

Any thoughts against cutting the tongue down? I feel like the 5' tongue makes the trailer sort of spongy and unstable. The above calculator also shows that the long tongue greatly reduces the safe capacity of the trailer.

 

Helped a buddy pull out some shrubs, stumps, etc.

Before

After


Backyard prepped for pool/filling old koi fish pond, ripped up a bunch of overgrowth by the fence line, cut up the tree into firepit sized logs.

He had me pile the cleared debris from the back fence area up against the shed, and said, "My boys will get it moved out to the street next weekend, after they pick up the bushes and crap out for pickup...I don't want to piss off the city bulk trash pickup driver!"

I'll be back in late summer to prep his front yard seeding, cutting in the backyard for the above ground pool, paver pathway and paver firepit area (to the left out of sight in above photo). I'm kind of scared to think what diesel and gas will be at by then, and so thankful for my stores of 5gal jugs I was able to fill up at $3.22/gal late last year (a local station reopened and was running super cheap prices for the first 1.5 months of business).

 

Will shorter tongue make it harder to back up or affect how sharp you can turn it? Tricky spot in my driveway requires backing a tight turn so that's what I think of maybe affected by tongue length.

Shorter tongue also shifts more weight to truck maybe? (it's a shorter lever)

 

any toothbar is going to help with ground engagement work, either the piranah or another style with teeth. The piranha will help sever the roots, and your shins if not careful. As for preventing bending your cutting edge, it can still happen but less likely and you will have a better result with any toothbar over none for root work.

 

Certainly. It is a breeze to back up now but I think that is a compromise that I am willing to make. A quick look at a big box store 5x8 shows that it's tongue is only 34". 60" is sooo long

 

I build my trailers with 45" tongues. I would not want to make them any shorter.

I don't understand why you think changing the length less "spongy"...Can you elaborate?

 

I think that the material used is not beefy enough for the length so I believe it is not as rigid as it should be. Maybe spongy isn't a good word.

Like the cheaper trailers that flex when you stand on a corner because the structure is too weak.

I'm thinking 48" or so is a good number.

 

Is it metal or something different?

 

2 x 2 x 3/16 square steel tube
It looks something like this. The intersection of the angular and straight tongue segments is about 30-36" from the front edge of the deck.
The straight tube runs under the deck for about 24" to a cross member.
Total length from front of deck to coupler is 60".

I'd cut it off 12-15" in front of where the angles intersect the straight tube.

I'm not at home so I don't have exact measurements.

 

Picked up a dump cart for my Husqvarna. It’s so much better than a wheel barrel! Broke it in by moving fired wood and leaves over the weekend.

 

I don't think I would waste time cutting down the tongue.

You can make the trailer ride level by getting a different receiver hitch. There are many different lengths of "drop".

If you have the opposite problem, you can flip the receiver hitch upside down then install the ball.

 

I'm definitely going to try and get it level with a drop hitch.

You don't think a 60" tongue is too long?

I've only done a little research on tongue lengths, so I'd be curious to hear your reasoning.

 

I often mount a spare tire bracket or a tongue jack or a hand boat winch on the tongue, you won't have any room for future add ons.

If that tongue gets to short, you can't use the tailgate without risking dropping the tail gate onto the tongue jack. That jack needs to be back far enough to it clears the TG. Most smaller trailers use the bolt on flip up style, so there needs to be clearance between the angle braces and the jack bottom.

 

I have a lot of trailer builds under my belt. Lots of different styles.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/6-x-10-utility-trailer-build.657781/

I've built a couple hundred of this style, so I've pretty much seen every scenario that can go on.

I love helping people build trailer (or I wouldn't have posted the link), so don't be afraid to ask questions.

As for your link to balancing the trailer, I don't believe there actually is a formula. There is never a one size fits all situation with bumper pull trailers.

 

Thank you for the input! That is all very good considerations that don't necessarily show up until mid project. Moving forward, I think that I need to get a good load in the trailer and measure for a drop hitch. Then with the trailer level, see how it tows.

Previously it had the huge gate ramp and old crusty tires. A good wheel bearing service, new tires, and ramp removed and I think that will make at least some noticeable difference in how the trailer pulls. It kind of "wobbled" before. Not a dangerous side by side sway, but just a little bit of a shimmy wobble. Could be nose up, could be tires, could be tailgate catching wind, could be empty tongue weight, could be long wet noodle tongue...

This poor trailer hasn't been given priority in a long time. Used and abused. It is also a diy kind of thing that I inherited with my house so I don't know who built it and what their qualifications or calculations were. It's geometry could be all sorts of wonky, or it could be spot on.

I'll get you some pictures and some measurements and if you don't mind, I'd would love to hear some feedback on how it could be improved.

 

Please do! I'll weigh in when you do. Please tag me so I see right away.

 

I have gotten way more use out of my trailer than I ever could have imagined. Hopefully yours becomes just as valuable to you as mine did to me.