Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

Capacitor and voltage are the first 2 things checked on this type call. Either one being bad causes the same issue. Both check out ok, new motor time.

I see tons of guys popping in new motors when it only needs a cap. Im too lazy for that, so id rather replace a cap lol.

If a motor has been sitting trying to run on a bad cap, I replace the motor and cap. Blade usually as well. It gets expensive quickly.

 

Ours was replaced on warranty with a universal "Rescue" motor. The unit was new in 2013.

I always assumed warranty work meant OEM parts. He left the spliced wires poking out of the top of the fan guard and he used unsealed blade type push connectors. Apparently that is "normal", but it looks janky.

 

I would not be happy with that as warranty repair. That happens a lot on general repairs though. I use wire nuts a shitload of 3m tape though. That sounds like a recipe for disaster as you describe it lol.

I'm a trane dealer and on warranty repairs, I use only factory parts.

 

Ironically I am posting this while in my state mandate continuing education classes lol.

 

Can't like that.

 

I sat outside in a chair one day while they were out making it look like I was cleaning my shotgun...

 

I can like that!

 

Never ever, ever replace a motor before checking the cap and never replace a motor without installing a new cap. They are just too cheap NOT to do so. If I'm working on HVAC equipment and it has a cap, I always check the cap before doing anything else if it may be motor related. Even heating and cooling temp issues can be cap related, the motor may run but not at the correct speed which can cause icing or limiting out due to heat build up.

 

Don't forget high head pressure. If that fan tries to start on the heat pump, then stops, pour a bucket of water over the fins. If the motor/fan starts, you have high compressor head pressure.

But yes, capacitor's are a common failure.

 

I bought one of these today, $70 and trimmed an ancient Catalpa tree. Usually I use an Sawzall with a tree pruning blade. This works ok but requires the use of a ladder -- ladders and I don't get along so well anymore.

It comes with an Oregon branded bar and chain. As @toysrgood says above it has plenty of power and cuts easily and well. Solid buy on this one.

 

I have a Dewalt battery powered pole saw. It works surprisingly well. I'm a big fan of swapping anything I can from a small, seldomly used gas powered device to battery/electric.

Cost more than $70 though.

 

I just went out and spun the fan by hand after it sitting overnight. The formerly nearly frozen side spun easily but not as easily as the other side and it wouldn't stay spinning for long with a flick of the blade. It would barely turn yesterday.

I turned it on and it spun up quickly with no assist and ran fine, stopped spinning before the other blade by about 1.5 rounds. I feel like this is gonna be a great trick for electric motors for me going forward.

 

Viva la Pneumatic Electric Revolutione!

 

Agree.
I couldn't see spending the $$ for a battery job than I'm only going to use a few times a year.
I do really like not having to mess with an engine for those few uses too.

 

If you can set it shaft up put a drop of ND 20 grade on it and let it work in overnight.

 

I think even at $70 it is worth its weight! It is so much more convenient and useable than a manual saw. I had a $60 Corona saw that I thought was nice until I used it and found out how aggravating it was. It caught on every return stroke and I eventually snapped the blade trying to free it. For another $10 I can do twice the work without breaking a sweat. No brainer!

 

Question for the wrench heads:

I took the case cover off this Kohler to find a seal leak.

I found this gouge on the block side of the engine.

My question is: will FAG sealant be able to seal off this gouge?

I'm pretty sure this engine case is a form a gasket case. There was no paper gasket when I took it apart. I can not find a case gasket, maybe someone else wants to take a shot at finding it?

I did find this kit that shows the correct gasket, but I don't need the rest of them.

The gouge seems to be about .030 deep (estimate). Of course it is below the water line.

 

You could put some epoxy in the gouge and file it down, go to the auto parts store and get a roll of gasket paper and cut your own gasket. Use the mating part to trace it, etc.

 

Most likely what I'm gonna end up doing.

I'm just surprised that seal cant be purchased separate.

 

I'd clean it very well and get ALL the oil off I could. Then I'd use a metal epoxy to fill it in, sand it carefully to flush level and seal it with a good gasket sealant if there wasn't a gasket available.