Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

If it's not locked up it wouldn't take much to get it going. Clean the carb and fuel lines, get some spark out of the magneto (may be able to file the points) and it should light off. They are pretty simple, fuel, fire, and air and off she goes

If it had gas left in it and the lines, tank, carb, etc. are gummed up it makes it 10 times worse though.

 

That gas can laying under it, a friend of mine came by last week and had one he had just bought at a flea market. It looked really good and still had the original $7.99 price tag attached.

 

Next time I go home I will poke around at it and see how it looks.

 

If you do try and get it going, be sure and drain/replace the oil in the air breather cup. They can get nasty in the bottom

 

That is what I'm afraid of. Lots of fluids that could gunk up and be nasty. Lots of cleaning and replacing hoses. Old gunk is no fun.

 

Anyone ever have to try and break up and remove reclaimed concrete that’s been broken up and repaid on a dirt road?

 

I have not but it shouldn't be that bad if you have a box blade with some rippers.

 

I texted my dad to see what its condition was the last time he looked.

It saw a lot of service. It was put away in '69 after grandad passed. He had the valves ground in '64. The cylinders are tight/seized and there are black carbon deposits around the exhaust.

 

As a kid I worked on a farm in Lancaster Cty., PA during the summer with a Deere just like that one. Farmer used it for cultivating/weeding and for the PTO during harvesting season. Attached a strap from the PTO wheel on the side of the Deere to the equipment used to shoot the silage up into the to opening at the top of the silo.

The main workhorse for use around the farm was an Alice Chalmers.

 

If it's been sitting that long, that would be tough to get running without a full engine rebuild. That's just to get it freed up.

 

The nice thing about the old tractors is you can stand there and work on them.
No contorting yourself and only basic tools required.

You can probably pull the oil pan off in 10 minutes.

 

I believe parts are readily available for that too.

 

Them old 2 cylinder J.D.'s don't have an oil pan, they have a crankcase and the block/head are horizontal

The crank and connecting rods are accessed through a cover on the top and sides.

Some of the 2 cylinders had a oil pan and the cylinders were vertical. Like the M, 40, 420, 320, 330, 430, etc.

 

Its prob just surface corrosion in the cylinder walls unless water or coolant leaked in there.

 

That's what I was thinking from sweating but it's been sitting 53 years, could be worse than expected.

 

There are pictures of my great grandad and that setup next to horse drawn hay wagons at the farm. Right around the time when people used both animal and machine power.

They also had a '37 JD A which probably served as the main workhorse. The B was likely used more for what you're describing and for pulling wagons and other secondary tasks.

I have my grandads entire inventory list from when he bought the farm from his dad in '58. Down to hammers and hay forks. Most of that was sold at auction after he passed.

 

The machine shed has a ton of moisture. Anything metal sweats during certain times of the year.

 

Yep. If its heavy rust, run risk of snapping piston rings.

 

Even if the reclaimed crushed up concrete has pretty much reset into concrete again? Would it be able to break that up again?

 

That's the way it is here.