Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

that may have been me, and I probably saw that in my searches, that’s 750miles away, and an oversized pallet. I’m in deeper than I wanna be right now with the “temporary fix” given other things happening in the family currently. Time and $$$ aren’t commodities I can spare a lot of at this time. Thanks for the thought though !

 

Pump rebuild time-bad input shaft seal. Kind of a messy way to keep the hydro fluid fresh. Was gonna take it apart, but the 1 seal I need is the 1 seal I don't have. Shit.

 

Just posting these pics to I can see if there in number on the seal. I can blow it up on my computer.

 

Isn’t that always the way it happens???

 

Yes. Not a bit surprised.

Surprising. I can just get the seal. Now to Xref it to see if I can find it local.

 

It's amazing what you can still get on old machines if you do a little looking. Used the old promac 10/10s today, ran great BUT [don't you hate those ''buts?] the darn fuel tank seal leaked like a sieve. Yes it was drained, yes I used non ethanol gas last, but stuff happens. I replaced it last time I replaced the fuel line and filter but that has been awhile and the old ones were cork. Sawezilla had viton [Yay!] seals, grabbed a new line just in case as it's molded, and a new air filter while I was shopping. This saw still wipes out most new comparable sized saws no matter the price and with chrome plating and massive ports in the cylinder, compression is still nuts after decades of use.

 

I inherited a Craftsman Chipper from my father when he passed. It runs well but seems like it is not cutting very well. I suspect the blades are in need of sharpening or replacement but I know nothing about these machines. The chipper is a Craftsman 24A-464G799. Can anyone point me in a good online tutorial or offer any advice on the best way to proceed to get the machine back into decent working condition?

 

Decided to pop the pump case apart. I scribed the 3 main body parts so there was no confusion on which way it goes back together.

 

After pulling the charge pump cap, I can remove the 4, 10mm bolts. The valve body lifts from the pump case from the springs in the cylinders. There will be lots of oil present

 

I'm checking this plate for abnormal wear. I can see the piston body wear marks, but can't feel them with my nail. This one will be fine as long as I do a full oil drain. This oil was pretty dirty.

 

Piston body. Best to tip the pump on its side so oil can drain out of the case. after draining I cup the piston body while turning the pump upside down. The piston body along with the pistons and springs will now be in your hand along with the center spring and washer...as well as lots of oil.

 

I didn't get a shot of the swash plate and bearing before I removed them.

Once those out of the way and the input shaft seal snap ring is off, you can drive the seal out by swatting the end of the input shaft.


Oddly enough, with all the tools I have, I do not have soft faced hammer. I've just always used a block of wood. The wood won't deform the input shaft.

 

pic was for post above.

 

seal is driven out by the shaft bearing and bushings.

Now I just wait for my new seal to show.

 

My electric water heater started leaking this winter. I replaced it with a hybrid heat pump unit. February's bill cycle lined up pretty nicely with the installation of the new unit. Now that it's been a few months, the bill really shows the drop in energy use:



It is a little noisy, but it's in the basement so that isn't really an issue. I have a friend who has an older Rheem unit that's noticeably quieter, but the new ones have a lot of noise complaints like my A.O. Smith does. I wonder if their compressors are from the same supplier.

 

The seals leak, [just replace all of them] but the actual metal parts seldom wear enough for replacement unless there was actual dirt or metal in the fluid or it was run very low.

 

Some general maintenance done on a friends Terrimite backhoe. Engine oil hasn't been changed in who knows when, but the old Kohler burns so much it's had quite a many top offs! Hydraulic oil also hasn't been changed in quite the many years. Decided to do that as well.



Went to Napa and they actually had an abundance of Rotella T4 10w30, so we went with that. 1551 hydro filter and a 21348 engine oil filter (actually fits a 1st gen 4 cylinder Tacoma, lol). It actually specifies 10w30 in the manual for the hydraulic unit, thought that was kinda weird. T4 went in the engine and hydro.



Crawled under the machine and they said they've been changing the hydro stuff from underneath. I knew there was a better way so I looked around. The plate where the drivers feet sit is removable. What do you know...



No drain on the tank, so just pulled the feed hose. Fluids changed and everything running again. The twin cylinder 20HP Kohler still smokes like a bong, especially at idle. Pretty sure it needs valve guide seals, but the engine still cranks over and runs fine. Trying to get them to let me rebuild the engine, pretty sure I can get all the parts needed. It's an odd front shaft only engine that's kinda rare now-adays. We were going to adapt a Predator engine to it, but then C19 went into full swing. Still might convince them to let me re-ring it and put new valve seals in it.

 

Here is the manual, blade section starts on page 16, it gives the part numbers too.
Made by MTD so the parts are available from many vendors.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/2ii7mi4hjx-000736/mtd-24a464g799-chipper-shredder-parts

 

Excellent! Thank you!

 

You can still get the Predator 670 (horizontal shaft). Actually pretty common at most of the HF stores. It's the vertical shaft engines that are no longer available. They are all going into the Prosumer Exmark mowers. No, I did not make that name up. It's directly from the Exmark add team. No really a commercial units, not really a consumer units.

They are still high end consumer mowers, just don't have the heavy duty air cleaning systems or heavy duty charging systems.