Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

Thanks for the advice. A lot of it I was aware of thanks to pair of YouTube guys that I've been watching religiously for a couple of weeks while I read. I don't even know if I can buy a non 4x4 tractor in new England I am looking at lots of brands, but the kubota dealer is closest. I was thinking that I could probably get by with either a B series. But I've also been considering something larger like the new LX.

 

Hydrostatic is the way to go, but it eats HP so keep that in mind.

As Noelie stated, more HP means you can do more with the PTO, makes hydrostatic trans more useful/ less likely to bog, maybe hold a higher gear with more weight (not that you'd really want to in most situations). If you're doing a lot of brush hogging, etc... sure more HP is good. But really think about loader capacity. Also note, the further you get from the pins (on the bucket), the less capacity you'll have even with counter weight/ballast. Adding quick attach to the loader is awesome, (the SSQA style), but will further decrease your lift capacity by a little. It's noticeable on small machines, less so as you go bigger.

Truth. I wish my machine was four wheel drive.

I quoted all this to say: That's awesome, both what you do with that garden tractor and the AC temporary fix. I've got a belt driven fan similar to that, came out of a small barn. Looks like something I'd do, but haven't had the need and hadn't thought of it! Good thinking!

 

Depends on how old it is. None of the large manufacturers really bother with 2wd CUT/SCUT 's anymore, but you see the older stuff (80's & 90's) on Craigslist/Marketplace in 2wd guise sometimes. And obviously the really old stuff was 2wd only, but if you're just looking for a do-it-all tractor I'd stay away from the 'classic' tractors. Even though they're a lot easier to work on, usually you're talking about no power steering, no down pressure on the loaders (lots of them even still have the 'trip' buckets, too), manual transmissions, etc. Vintage iron is great if you've got room to roam, but it can be a hassle otherwise.

 

Yep, when you're talking 50's stuff. The loaders they put on the Massey Fergusons in the late 50's, through the 60's almost all have double acting cylinders. Hell, my loader has a max lift capacity that's 2100lbs full height, 3200lbs half height. If you look for the right machinery, you can get what you want, I've also got proper power steering on my (1964) machine, I can turn the wheel with my pinky with a fully loaded bucket.

That's not to say that these old beasts don't come with other issues, just putting it out there that I get a LOT done with mine. Loaded tires and wheel weights get you REALLY stuck if ya want, just as stuck and burying a 4wd machine hahaha. Where I lack in traction sometimes, I make up in horsepower (35-40hp at the PTO), so it's plenty useful.

I'd stay away from anything that has single acting cylinders (no downpressure), away from anything that has a trip bucket if you want to get any work done efficiently. Also, don't get anything that doesn't have a live PTO, or Independent PTO. Lots of older machines didn't have live hydraulics.

 

Sure, but your Massey isn't exactly 'compact' either.

 

Here’s that upper radiator elbow for a 140. I ordered and they replaced because it was made wrong. I wound up using my old one because I was ready to put it back together when I realized it was wrong.

 

About the same size as a 34hp Kubota. It's not a SUB-compact, but it is still considered compact.

Comparing my machine to my father's 34hp (27@PTO) Kubtoa L2850, they're about the same physical size. Mine's a bit heavier (old iron haha).

I had this exact issue with an upper radiator hose I ordered through Amazon. It actually ended up being the air intake hose that went from the Donaldson style (oil bath) air filter to behind the dashboard for fresh air intake.

 

I keep finding times where I wish I had gotten a small tractor with bucket instead of just a riding mower. Been dealing with it for years. Moved a lot of dirt by hand with a small trailer behind the riding mower. Didn't have money at the time though for anything bigger.

So I have John Deere X500 that is about 8 years old now. Still runs fine so I assume selling it wouldn't be hard if I choose to sell.

All that leading to a short question:
What are generally the best sources to find a used small tractor with loader?
Dealer is convenient but I assume not the best deals financially.

 

C-list, marketplace, etc. But be careful cause you don't want someone elses problem. I'd still check with the dealers as well but look for off brands, i.e. Kubota at the John Deere dealer or vice versa. Dealers don't like having the competitions products on their lots but they will take them on trade ins and you may can find a good price on a used one.

 

I bought my Kubota B2400 at a Cub Cadet dealer, it had all the stuff I was looking for, added a 60” box blade (a little big but it works) I knew I was gonna spend $10k if I got a loader and a mower, laid down half, they financed the rest. Maybe I paid to much, but it’s been the best machine I’ve owned. Easily repairable, durable and isn’t effected by rain and humidity like my old Riding mowers were (horrible water in fuel issues even with non ethanol).
Ive had it 10 years, Regular maintenance, largest repair was replacing the throwout bearing, $30 part, but had to split the machine to do it. It was fun.

 

tractorhouse.com is a good place to look to get an idea on price

 

Be aware of “grey market” machines. You will have a hard time finding parts, and dealers will not support them. They Don’t have the safety features the equivalent US spec machine would have.

 

Didn't think about grey market. Safety shmafety.
I remember working on farms as a youth, many years ago, how we drilled, welded, spliced, and otherwise "fixed" equipment with whatever worked.
Fun times. And educational.

 

im kinda with you on that, but that’s the rub with stuff in the US, and that’s what keeps the grey market stuff from being repaired most times.

 

Beware of the tire size on the grey market tractors also. Some sizes you can’t find in the US. I’ve heard of guys having to change the wheels because they couldn’t find tires.

 

Calling all grading experts:
I need some advise on grading as I know someone on here is better than me at dealing with runoff erosion. I have a few spots where I have runoff cutting a few areas in my driveway. I'll update as I post the pics so I can keep it straight in my head.

Here's my wagon. 1400lb as ballasted GT. 100lb 42" wide box blade with 70lbs of weights on it. 170lbs total with 200lbs of down pressure available on the hitch. Loader to allow for backdragging and digging/hauling gravel and dirt. I also have a plow and a cultivator with a middlebuster I trench with.



One of my issues that I addressed yesterday. Left side of pic from me to my truck. Runoff cuts the grass edge down and leaves a ridge. I bladed off the ridge over the last 2 days and dragged gravel in and tried to blend it up to the grass. Only thing I can think of is to cut a ditch between the gravel and grass to keep the water off the gravel.



The first one of these shows the angle of runoff I have. Water channels down from where my truck is and cuts into the right side of the driveway. Bottom pic shows 2 cut paths. There's another one just past my drainage pipe to the right. Do you think pouring quickcrete on the shoulders of these 3 spots would slow the gravel washout?

 

Crush and run is one of the worst for washing out. We battled the same thing in our driveway, put a load of 57 (I think it’s 57) on it and haven’t had an issue since.

Ours was washing bad where our parking lot meets our driveway. Hasn’t moved since

 

I just finally ordered a rear main seal for my '64 MF35 Utility. It leaks like a seive. I'm splitting it this summer and fixing a power steering line I can't reach without pulling the dash. Then I'll be nearly leak free. I'm kindof excited. Having the loader in the way will suck.

There are also grey market tractors where the PTO spins backwards from what ours do in the USA.

You've got to slow the movement of the water. Either by diverting it, or trenching in a french drain where it wants to run. You could run it the length of that area that washes out, or collect it and dump it out by trenching through the driveway and letting the water run off on the other side. Water itself doesn't wash anything out. It's running water that does damage. Slow it down, give it someplace to go and you should be good.

 

"Fun" is never a word that I would have used to describe splitting a tractor

 

+1 on this