Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

I make mufflers all the time.
Fromm 22lr up to 458socom. Lmao

Seriously though: you can buy generic mufflers for small engines all over the place & just make your own inlet/hanger set up.

 

So here is the crosstie wall that I want to turn back to hillside. Taper it down where it meets the cement block wall i'm standing on to take the pic and where it meets otherslope beyond wall. It ends at that last bush. It's already hillside beyond that bush. Wall itself isn't so tall I guess but feels tall because it is built part way up a hillbelow it. I'm thinking fill over whole thing to reduce slope overall plus get rid of wall.

That is if I can afford to have that much fill dirt brought in.

Wall isn't bulging or anything but some of the crossties are rotted almost all the way through letting dirt wash out through it in havy rains.

 

The picture makes it look tall.... How long is it by how tall actually?

This could be a bit of fill dirt or it could be 100's of tons. Just cant tell from your pix.

Looks to be 8or 9 rail road ties high?

 

Here's a look at the progress so far.
This was taken the first day we were allowed back.

And today

It's a work in progress.
We did 13 pipe bundles today on the pressure washing line.

 

This appears to be a useful rescource. Thanks for posting!

 

It looks like this



A sheet metal box. With mounting flanges and captive threaded port mounting
But the one on my mower is made of paper thin, rusty metal with many holes in it ;-)

 

9 ties tall at tallest section, down to 4 ties where it tapers to blend into the other hillside. 6 ties long at longest at base.

Hill below wall is equally tall by eyeballing it so base of wall is in middle of the overall height change. I'm guessing easily at least six dumptruck loads and I'd want a vibratory compactor along the way as hill gets built up.

 

Got me a new genny
Like the fork stabs on the bottom of the box? Warehouse people are special. Especially if you give them a forklift….I did poke my fingers in there but the plastic wrap wasnt damaged so all was good.

Testing it for an hr. Started up and ran like a champ. Powered this little heater like it wasn’t even there


Question for you guys in the know.
It has a 50A outlet on it so would I be looking for a 50A transfer switch inlet and cable?

 

Looks like it was stacked in truck or whse and was poked from the 1 in front of it when stacking or unstacking.
You should see how all your appliances are done.
Are you wanting to run certain things in your house at the same time? This is my setup.

I don't have my oven or HVAC hooked up because of the consumption of fuel.
Hot water is a rinnai tankless that runs off of 110 the only thing pulling 220 power is the well which is hooked up.

 

Yea something like that. I’ll be load shedding of course so the basics like fridges and that will be used and were empty nesters so the hot water heater only needs to run for an hr a day. Going the cheap route for now.

 

Nice.
I just bought a new one myself.








I have every circuit available at anytime..

 

This Champion came with the ground Bonded.
Needed to unhook it and turn unto a floating neutral.
Made a bonding plug to run it standalone.
Outside of that it was RTG.
Have 2.5 hours of break in on it.
Now to wait..lol
I will run it once a month or so and roll it over with the recoil once a week.
These style motors have an occasional issue of having the valves stick in the head if they sit for a long time.

 

I would hope everyone here understands that if you're using your generator during the power outage to lock out your circuit panel from the grid. It would be a shame to shock the piss out of/kill some poor man working on the power line because you were sending current onto the grid.

 

This is very good advice.

Regardless, every lineman is trained to assume any lead is assumed to be live. They already take precautions against being back fed to the grid.

With that said, it's just common sense and courtesy to have the main disconnected from the grid when running a generator.

 

I know a lot of home owners that use a suicide cable to the dryer plug (220) or the outside outlet (110).
I keep telling them it’s really not all that much money.
You can get enough info online to get the proper cable, boxes, lockouts, Generlink, transfer switches.
You can run everything yourself and then have a electrician do the final hookup to the box and check it and
certify it.
You gotta have it…

 

Sorry, didn’t see this at the bottom of your post.
To maximize your Gen, definitely use a 50 amp hookup cable, hookup box, interior cable and 50amp
Circuit breaker with the correct lockout for your region…
Mine has a max of like 34 amps running, so not worth the money to switch out for the amps I won’t use.

 

Yes. I installed one of these lockouts in our main panel.

https://www.geninterlock.com/

 

Interlock kits are great.
No need to “pick” your circuits.
You have them all.
Just do your calculations and watch your wattage meter. (Good style to have”).
Funny
Local town codes suck.
2 towns next to each other.
One can have an interlock, the other can’t.
For a long time the Generlink for the service wasn’t allowed in a lot of places.
I think things are getting easier…

 

My neighbor was our lineman and he got zapped on a pole and the kid working with him had to carry him down the pole.
It wasn't from a Genny but it could have been.

 

Ok I will see you on this. When we were getting the mini split in the garage the electric co-op came out and were checking it out because we got it through them. And our address is for another county but we live in the county with the co-op we didn't need the extras the other one needs to have.
I get what you're saying about different rules for areas.
Oh did I forget to mention that the county inspector is the brother in law of the co-op guy