Trailer Hitch Installation Questions

Hello all. I was hoping to get some advice or information regarding the installation of a trailer hitch on my 2019 Tacoma SR. It's a 4-cylinder, 2WD (6AT transmission) with a 6' bed. I mistakenly opted not to get the trailer hitch version of the truck when I purchased it a year ago, and I'm greatly regretting that now. I'm planning to help my girlfriend move from Indiana to California by towing a 6x12' enclosed trailer loaded with her stuff.

I brought my Tacoma in to the dealership today for its first regular servicing, and was asking the agent about how much it would cost to install a trailer hitch. Right away, he seemed a little reluctant, telling me that it didn't have the transmission-cooling unit that the ones with the trailer hitch automatically come with, but that it should probably be ok so long as I was especially careful going up inclines. He made it sound as though it would be no small feat to install the hitch, which surprised me, as I've known people who weren't extremely mechanically inclined that were able to install their own without issue. He didn't give me a price estimate, as he said it was outside of his purview, but could hook me up with the parts department to get a better idea (unfortunately, I had to leave and wasn't able to talk to them). He strongly encouraged me to have the work done there at the dealership, but I realize they are almost required to tell customers that. Finally, he said he did know they wouldn't install a brake control unit for the trailer, but I was under the impression this isn't necessary unless hauling much larger trailers.

So my questions are as follows:
1) Would it be fine to get it installed elsewhere, or is there some inherent risk in going with a 3rd party as opposed to the dealership installing it?
2) Very roughly, what kind of price estimate should I be expecting? I'm assuming it will be around twice as much at the dealership, right?
3) Should I be concerned about the well-being of my transmission, given the length of the trip and the size of the trailer?
4) A brake control box is not necessary, correct?
5) Bonus question: Would there be any benefit to having the installation done in Indiana rather than California? (I'm in Ca now, and will be driving to In to pick up my gf and the trailer to bring back to Ca - I can do the installation either place).

Apologies for the long post; any help here would be greatly appreciated.

 

Makes more sense to rent a U-haul and beat on their shit rather than your own cuz the factory tow package comes with trans, engine oil, and power steering coolers...in addition to the tow receiver items you don’t have to combat heat for such a long haul.

 

Anyone shop can install a hitch, you will also have to have a wiring harness installed for lights. The towing capacity or the 4 cylinder is 3500 lbs, a trailer is prob going to weigh at least half that. Just my personal opinion I don’t think I would do it, lot of mountains, without trailer brakes, (do you know if trailer has them) you could fry your brakes quickly. I’d spend a little extra rent a small u haul truck or just use a ltl trucking company. Someone with trailer experince in a 4 cylinder may be able to give you personal advice

 

Are you planing on using 6x12 Uhaul trailer? That trailer is ~2000lb when empty. With a tow rating of 3500lb, that only leaves you something like 1500lb and that should also include everything inside the truck including people. IMO that trailer is an overkill since you will be limited by the tow rating rather than the space inside the trailer. You can get a smaller/lighter trailer and put more stuff in, rather than hauling a half empty 6x12.

That being said, personally, I wouldn’t beat a 4 cylinder truck without transmission cooler on such a long trip.

 

Side note. If she’s wanting to take common furniture, dishes, ect it would be cheaper to sell, donate them and buy new stuff there

 

have a garage sale and just take what fits in the bed of your truck.

 

Damn, your going to drive 2 thousand miles one way your self to pick her up then drive back?? You my friend are whipped lol.

 

6x12 enclosed trailer full of stuff is pushing your limits imo. It can be done, if done correctly (ie. weight limits). So, you coming here to ask questions is a good move on your part. Hope you get some solid advice.

Any random shop can install a trailer hitch. No need to do that at the dealer. But you want someone that knows how to wire up the lights (and do it in a reputable way).

And for sure don’t use the overdrive gear while towing.

 

Fly out, drive small rental truck back.

 

Reading material:
https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/13264/installsheet/CM_13264_INS.PDF

 

Absolutely!
I have a V6 and the tow package, and I'd still fly, rent, drive.

 

You can purchase a hitch and the trailer light pig-tail online from a place like eTrailer.com . The install is relatively simple. In my experience the good hitches are designed to use existing mount holes in the frame. And the little adapter goes between the wiring harness for the left tail light and the tail light itself. Pop the tail light, pull the plug, put the adapter between plug and light. All good - no drilling to be done. Of course that leaves you with a 4 cyl without the cooling for your AT, and a ton of miles between home 1 and home 2. A 6x12 enclosed trailer could be loaded with more weight than I think you should consider hauling that far. I agree with several of the recommendations already made here. The best one is to rent a Uhaul truck, load and go. You might still find a hitch on your truck convenient for all many of lighter hauling, and shorter distance. FWIW, I pulled a very light (like 250 lbs) 5x8 utility trailer locally with a Gen 2 4 cyl. And without problems. But my typical load was in the 1000 lb area.



The trailer was useful for hauling motorcycles to cabins in the mountains, short distance moving kids from apartment to apartment, mulch, firewood, a refrigerator for a friend, . . . I'd not consider a cross country haul.

 

I installed my hitch laying in the driveway with the help of a floor jack.

But your proposed use of the hitch and 4k of driving is sketchy.

Time for a new girlfriend and let this one figure out moving on her own?

 

I installed both front and rear trailer hitches on my access cab. It helps if you have a second set of hands to help you. The back is easier than the front. You can save yourself some money and do it yourself and the wiring is not complicating.

 

I installed the lights and hitch in about 1.5 hr on my truck and the cost was about $275. I installed it the day after I bought it. If u can turn a wrench u can install the hitch. If you can run a wire from the very back of the truck to the front you can install the lights. I pulled 3000 pounds with 900 pounds of that in the bed . The most id pull going any real distance would be 2000-2500.

 

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You should probably find a new girlfriend.


I pulled my H&H 6x12 (1100lbs) from Wichita to Baltimore (1300 miles) loaded it up, and pulled it back (3000lbs) with a 2nd gen SR5 V6. It was NOT fun dude, especially in the Appalachian mountains.

Once you get past the Mississippi River its all up hill, and then once you hit the Rockies... To keep the transmission from overheating, you don't want it to shift a lot. Going up grades you'll need to be in like 2nd or 3rd and the motor will be screaming.

But I would be more concerned with coming down a mountain. No trailer brake, light little pickup... you'll need to be in a super low gear and creep down to keep from overheating your brakes or losing the trailer. Do U-hauls have integrated brakes? I don't know.

I'm not saying it can't be done, but boy I'd be white knuckling it.

 

Larger ones like the 6x12 has surge breaks that apply breaking to the wheels when the trailer pushes against the ball.

 

Sorry, but this made me start hummin... The Sanford, and son theme...

 

The real question is, is she moving to you or away from you?