Tranny and Drive Shaft Experts

wouldn't recommend this without a re balance of the driveshaft.... plus I would just get a new one for that reassurance that you won't have to worry about the weld holding up...

 

Fort Worth Gear & Axle - www.gearandaxle.com
3409 Kelli Ct, Fort Worth - (817) 625-8878.

This is the place I used years ago. They were good then but I have not needed them since so I can only assume that they still are good.

 

Okay, I think I am about ready to make a decision, last question:

What are everyones thoughts about repaired/rebuilds vs. new? I have olgzr's guy going to take a look to see if it can be fixed; if it needs replacing I found some good prices on new and rebuilt (new being slightly more). The new is just a little more, so I am inclined to say just fork over the extra ($150), is it worth it?

 

Any update?

 

I bought one off car-parts.com for the ole farm truck. It was in great shape and a quarter the price. Might be worth a look.

Thanks,
Robert

 

I took it to Fort Worth Gear and Axle (the place you suggested Olgzr), they said they should be able to repair it. I didn't get it over there until Friday afternoon, they said they should be able to repair it, but they will have it all apart and know more on Monday (today). I'll keep you posted.

 

OP--sorry that I have nothing to add to your driveshaft issue. However, I can offer a quick fix to your backspace issue...after you hit backspace accidentally, hold the Control key and press the Z key. This is the keyboard shortcut for undo and VOILA! your text comes back!

Thought it might come in handy if there is a next time...

 

Thanks, that would have been awesome. I had the whole description of the incident (with narration). So Ctrl + Z, I'll put that one in my back pocket, this is not the first time I have done that.

 

Okay, look slike they welded on a new yoke joint and new u-joint, should be ready this afternoon. Probably won't be able to make it ove rther ethis evening so I should be able to get it tomorrow morning. Thanks for eveyone's help and input. I'll let you know how it feels once I get it.

 

when mine broke it took out the exhaust, fuel tank, and the transfercase rear bearing. i still have yet to check my pinion gear

 

ouch do you think most of that would have been prevented by the install of the drive shaft loops.....or whatever you call them like old school

 

and check with olivers customs drive shafts in winston salem nc they can mail it and my driveshaft (really big honkin one) was $185

and brutal guy racing, mine was a drive shafts made at boone iron works since i need to run a single peice drive shaft, boone iron works forgot to balance it and it broke in half going down th freeway. im taking my truck up to olivers on wednesday to get them to shorten my rear cause i changed some stuff on the truck)

 

This may be a retarded question, but with drive shafts, is there one that's better than another? Performance drives shafts? I know when you lift or do certain things you have the change the shaft to match the changes, but for stock are they all the same?

 

you just want a good quality metal that is properly balanced with quality (OE U-joints are the best for tacos)

 

That and all non zerked joints can be greased,,no reason not to have the u-joint bearing cups pushed out and reloaded then reinstalled. tell toyota this when you take them the bill. they can be greased in a very short time with a bench mounted arbor press once the shaft is out.

One of the reasons the factory puts non zerked joints in is because they are much more indestructable, but they do need to be greased at least once or twice a year,,some guys go 3-4 years or more before pulling the shaft and pressing the cups out for grease, and they find that the needles have been squared and are shot. thus they put in a replacement greasable joint, which of course is your other option,,just depends on how hard you wheel your truck.

 

Okay, one last question (until the next last question):

They are done with the drive shaft and trying to fill the tranny, and needless to say they could not figure it out at first (this is a little more than scary). I sent them this link from the Toyo Repair Manaul: http://www.customtacos.com/tech/fil...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/02700210.pdf

Question is how important is this intelligent sensor tool? The directions say it can be done w/o this, but should I have the dealer take a look to be sure?

 

you can look at it yourself to double check when you get it back

take some pics as well.............

 

UPDATE
I'll get some pics posted soon. Looks good and feels good. I am a little concerned about the smallest and tiniest bit of a trans leak. Not sure what to think. Literally, after the whole day it developed one drop (literally) of fluid, but it was so minute, it never even dripped onto the driveway. I saw it in the morning and it was still there that evening, nothing on the driveway.

This probably isn't good. My guess is, is it possible the shaft was just slightly too short and so the yoke going into the trans is not as far in as it should be (probably less than a quarter cm off). What do you think? Can anyone take and post a picture of where their driveshaft and yoke line up with the tranny case?