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Tranny issue?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by KRich, Sep 11, 2018.

  1. Sep 11, 2018 at 11:35 AM
    #1
    KRich

    KRich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok I've got a six speed 2007 taco and am having a strange issue. In second and third gear most noticeably when I am accelerating it often feels like there is a lag similar to how it would feel if the clutch was partially pushed in but the clutch is not being touched at all. I need to check all my fluid levels but I'm worried that I'm looking at a costly issue. Thanks!
     
  2. Sep 12, 2018 at 8:17 PM
    #2
    KRich

    KRich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Pretty unique issue I guess haha
     
  3. Sep 12, 2018 at 8:36 PM
    #3
    desertrunner24

    desertrunner24 Well-Known Member

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    How many miles/km. Original clutch?
     
  4. Sep 12, 2018 at 9:01 PM
    #4
    KRich

    KRich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    140,000 kms, original clutch
     
  5. Sep 12, 2018 at 9:07 PM
    #5
    Taco47

    Taco47 Well-Known Member

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    Do you feel any slipping?
     
  6. Sep 12, 2018 at 9:09 PM
    #6
    landphil

    landphil Fish are FOOD, not friends!

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    Does the tach show higher RPM when this happens, compared to coasting at the same speed?

    Based on your description, I’m thinking the clutch is slipping. But hard to say over the internet.
     
  7. Sep 12, 2018 at 9:11 PM
    #7
    KRich

    KRich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The weird thing is that it feels like it's slipping without the clutch engaged at all. Is that something that a bad clutch could do?
     
  8. Sep 12, 2018 at 9:30 PM
    #8
    desertrunner24

    desertrunner24 Well-Known Member

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    So when you shift into 2nd it takes awhile for it to fully feel like the clutch has grabbed?
     
  9. Sep 12, 2018 at 9:50 PM
    #9
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    There's a slipper valve body (forget the actual name) bolted to the side of the transmission, it gets gunked up if the clutch fluid isn't changed religiously and causes light clutch engagement of the disk against the fly. Remove it and get a coupler from O'Reilly's. Made a HELL of a difference.

    The purpose of the original valve is to aid an inexperienced manual trans driver in smoothly engaging the clutch to reduce shock load on the drive train, but again of you don't maintain the system to the T or know what you're doing with a stick shift then by all accounts it's simply a hindrance.

    I have much better shifts and can actually put the power down without it as well as my clutch friction point is consistent now which has made a NIGHT and DAY difference when trying to crawl off road.

    (It also makes it easier to clutch kick and slide the back out. :D )
     
  10. Sep 12, 2018 at 10:29 PM
    #10
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.
    ACCUMULATOR VALVE

    That's it's name.

    Right in the middle of this diagram, part 31490.
    Screenshot_20180913-005252~2.jpg

    The actual part number and price:
    Screenshot_20180913-005311~2.jpg

    The janky grabage you want to remove:

    71S04XnjkYL._SX425_.jpg

    What you want to replace it with:
    10022861_dag_785438_pri_larg.jpg

    And a link to that coupler:

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...clsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJSIqMybt90CFcsRhgodj5oMaw#

    What it looks like when you are done:
    maxresdefault.jpg

    And even a YouTube vid:
    https://youtu.be/gNWWoNDpmDE

    It's also a million times easier to bleed the clutch without that stupid engineer's wet dream of a paperweight slapped to the side of your gear box.

    Inside it's pretty much just a stiff linear spring and a ball bearing which limits flow in one direction. (Engagement.)
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 12, 2018
  11. Sep 12, 2018 at 10:52 PM
    #11
    KRich

    KRich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info guys. It's weird to me because I will complete my shift or just be cruising along already in gear and not even touching the clutch and I will accelerate but I will only be getting like 60-70% of what the engine is trying to give. It does not happen all the time so maybe sometimes after a shift the clutch isn't disengaging completely? I will have to test more but I'm pretty sure sometimes it will alternate between working normally and not working normally as I'm driving and staying in the same gear without touching the clutch.
     
  12. Sep 12, 2018 at 11:16 PM
    #12
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    Locker anytime Fog Lights anytime Full LED light conversion TRD cat back Rear cat delete Exaust Y reroute away from actuator Alloy Clutch master 2000 4Runner "Dog Leg" shift leaver Marlin shift seats and bushing Rear seat delete Rear diff breather extension Chrome grille swap Debadge Rear seat delete Honda blower motor beefy plug and wire mod Anytime 12v and USB with volt gauge in bed Blue Sea fuse box Hella AND 70's Caddy horns Low profile recessed hex drain plug swaps Alluminum battery strap 7pin relocated Backup cam on anytime Various other creature comfort and personal taste mods.
    Again I had the exact same issue you're describing, it was all the stupid little accumuator valve, take it out it's like a $5 mod makes it a new truck!
     
    ausfahrt and TheDevilYouLove like this.
  13. Oct 5, 2018 at 1:05 AM
    #13
    KRich

    KRich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Damn I'm not much of a mechanic especially when it comes to bleeding fluids etc too. I'm guessing that a transmission fluid topup or flush wouldn't probably do anything hey?
     
  14. Oct 5, 2018 at 11:40 AM
    #14
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    Bleeding/flushing fluids is one of the easiest and most important maintenance items. If you said from the start you need to check your fluids, it's possible your clutch hydraulic system needs service. Get some fresh fluid in there and drive it a little while, see if it helps. Then maybe replace that sponge mechanism with a straight line coupler as suggested.
     
    KRich[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  15. Oct 5, 2018 at 12:53 PM
    #15
    KRich

    KRich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So you would lean towards fluids for the clutch hydraulic system as opposed to the transmission fluid itself? I have no issues with shifting or anything, like I said it feels like it's slipping when I push the engine moderately while it's already in gear.
     
  16. Oct 15, 2018 at 8:35 AM
    #16
    DGXR

    DGXR Well-Known Member

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    You say it feels like it's slipping... it's pretty easy to confirm whether it's slipping or not. Watch the tachometer and see if it matches the speedometer and acceleration feeling. Maximum power comes on above 3500 RPM and I don't think the "top gear pedal down" test is a very good clutch test. I would put it in 3rd at around 40mph and then put the pedal down.

    To answer your question, yes, I suggest bleeding the clutch fluid and driving it a while. Of course you want to be sure the tranny fluid is full and in good condition (if it's been over 20,000 miles, you might change the tranny fluid anyway). Curious to know the color/condition of your clutch fluid before flushing. Dark is not a problem if you flush it now, but can cause problems down the road if the dark fluid stays in there. Black is a problem. I flush mine about once per year, it's cheap and easy to do while the car is on stands for periodic inspection.

    You might have a problem with the clutch arm pivot or the throwout bearing, but try these things first.

    If a manual transmission fails, 98% of the time it fails completely... truly broken. There is no slipping as would happen with an automatic. Some might argue that a synchro can fail/wear out or a bearing goes bad and starts growling... yes these require repair but IMO these are not failures since it's likely the car can still be driven, carefully and temporarily.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2018
    KRich[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  17. Oct 15, 2018 at 8:48 AM
    #17
    KRich

    KRich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I got the transmission fluid changed and it seems maybe a little better but not gone. I did a 400km each way road trip with some steep dirt roads and highway driving and I can drive in a way to almost completely avoid it if I always stay on the medium and higher end of the tachometer before shifting (not redlining or anything). I can recreate the issue on demand if I am in the lower to medium curve of the tachometer in whatever gear and push the pedal down more. The revs go up kind of like hitting an icy patch on a road or hydroplaning. I guess my next bet will be to change the clutch fluid but it's just so weird that it seems independent of using the clutch.
     
  18. Oct 15, 2018 at 9:19 AM
    #18
    PzTank

    PzTank Stuck in the Well

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    I don’t understand why you’re not jumping on this solution?? If you’re not comfortable doing it, find someone who can do it for you.
     
  19. Oct 15, 2018 at 11:05 AM
    #19
    KRich

    KRich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I haven't found it that cheap in Canada and don't trust myself doing it. My wife drives the truck a lot so would I be better off just getting the stock part replaced?
     
    PzTank[QUOTED] likes this.
  20. Dec 5, 2018 at 3:01 PM
    #20
    KRich

    KRich [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I finally went to the shop and I've been told that it's actually the clutch that's going. What is a fair estimate for how much this should cost to do? He was saying it could be about 6 to 8 hours labor and that they have to drop the transmission and everything. Thanks for any info you can provide and please tell me if you are using us or can dollars.
     

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