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Trans. Shop VS. Dealership for flush

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by SKULLY, Feb 14, 2012.

  1. Feb 14, 2012 at 7:39 PM
    #1
    SKULLY

    SKULLY [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Dave
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    06 DCSB pre runner
    Debadged, BHLM, AFE CAI, Magnaflow Cat Back, Method 301 16X8 w/285/75 BFG T/A KO 2's, King ex C/O's w/RR, King rears w/RR LR UCA's, Dakar leaf packs, Beefed narrow sliders
    Experiences, pro-cons, advice........

    Local dealership quoted me $285 to flush my trans. Said it would take a whole day due to getting the fluid the right temp after dropping it off. Also, sure they would use recommended toyota fluid.

    Trans shop across the street quoted me $140 for the flush and $140 to replace my extension housing seal (new double lipped seal). Not sure about the method or fluid they would use. So for $280 I can get the seal replaced and a flush for less than the dealership. I did not even ask the dealership about a cost to replace the seal. But as the saying goes "you get what you pay for". Would love to save some $ but don't want any problems with my trans.
     
  2. Feb 14, 2012 at 7:48 PM
    #2
    Texoma

    Texoma Well-Known Member

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    Lago Vista, TX
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    Poweraid TB spacer, a bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA 2035s headers and dey are perty, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, LR UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, 5 factory 16" steels wit Pep Boys special Dakota Definity MT's in 285/75/16, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more but it's alre
    The dealership wouldn't flush your trans to begin with. That's just a term used to say they are gonna drain and fill it. You can do it yourself, it's not as hard as everyone makes it out to be. Rule of thumb, what comes out, must go back in. The only difference is that instead of a dip stick, our trucks have an overflow plug. There is a thread in the 2nd gen DIY that explains the process, it's not that complicated. Why do you need to replace the shaft seal? Is it leaking?
     
  3. Feb 14, 2012 at 7:57 PM
    #3
    SKULLY

    SKULLY [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Dave
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    06 DCSB pre runner
    Debadged, BHLM, AFE CAI, Magnaflow Cat Back, Method 301 16X8 w/285/75 BFG T/A KO 2's, King ex C/O's w/RR, King rears w/RR LR UCA's, Dakar leaf packs, Beefed narrow sliders
    Yep. Small leak from the seal. Nothing major, just small drip on the extension housing.
     
  4. Feb 14, 2012 at 8:02 PM
    #4
    Texoma

    Texoma Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    5,418
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    First Name:
    Chris(Topher)
    Lago Vista, TX
    Vehicle:
    10 Taco 4x4
    Poweraid TB spacer, a bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA 2035s headers and dey are perty, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, LR UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, 5 factory 16" steels wit Pep Boys special Dakota Definity MT's in 285/75/16, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more but it's alre

    Have you tried retorquing the bolts to see if that will stop the leak?
     
  5. Feb 14, 2012 at 8:11 PM
    #5
    SKULLY

    SKULLY [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Dave
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    06 DCSB pre runner
    Debadged, BHLM, AFE CAI, Magnaflow Cat Back, Method 301 16X8 w/285/75 BFG T/A KO 2's, King ex C/O's w/RR, King rears w/RR LR UCA's, Dakar leaf packs, Beefed narrow sliders
    Have not tried to retorque the bolts but I will check that. Researched a little on here and others had the same problem. Toyota replaced the single lipped seal with a new double lipped seal. Figured that the lift, new drive shaft angles, and older seal more than likely caused the leak.
     
  6. Feb 14, 2012 at 8:16 PM
    #6
    wolftree

    wolftree Well-Known Member

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    Ohio
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    2011 Tacoma 4x4 Regular cab automatic trans,
    Rear Leaf TSB, Bilstein 5100s, extra leaf added
    In my local area, when any of the dealerships, no matter the brand, have a real problem with a automatic transmission, they send the vehicle to a transmission shop.

    I suggest going with the transmission shop.
     
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