Transmission Change -- Fluids must be Toyota Brand?

Hello All,

I am trying to save some money in getting a transmission fluid change. I think it may be very dirty after driving across the USA in 1 week and my radiator overheating/busting in the Rockies. Pepboys says $130 for a standard transmission oil and $179 for the Toyota specified transmission fluid. A friend of mine says that transmission fluid is the same and Toyota stamped fluid will not make a great difference over any other standard fluid by a reputable company. Any thoughts? I had bought the filter and gasket and planned to do it myself but it seems like it may be a little over my head and ability. Thanks fellow Tacoma Worlders

2001 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner 2wd 3.4 V6

 

Go buy some max life synthetic at wal-mart. You can buy enough to do a flush yourself (it holds about 3 gallons, I bought 4) for 60 bucks or so...

If you look on the jug, it specifically mentions compatibility with Toyota WS. Many of us here have done this and had zero problems, perhaps better shifting for some.

 

Thank you Robert. I bought a filter and gasket to service transmission as well, but was thinking of nixing the operation in favor of letting a shop do it (I am very new to this, my jobs so far: spark plugs, radiator w/help, brake rotors, oil change). Would I service the filter before or after changing the fluid? Do I need a pump to push the new fluid in? Thank you again for your help and advice I will look into the Max-Life Synthetic at Wal-Mart.

 

where are you located? might be some members in your area that could help

 

I am in Los Angeles. That would be great. My truck has 193k on it and I want to keep it in the best possible condition I can.

 

Usually on oil pans and tranny pans some RTV silicone gasket maker is best, though the gaskets can work. You would replace the filter once you have the pan dropped, as it sits up inside it; so before re-installing the pan and adding fluid. No pump needed as you refill the fluid through the dip stick tube, up top.

 

Quick question guys, I just had my Transmission flushed at the dealer. How do you check the transmission fluid level?????

 

Hey Marshall. Thanks for your help. So I would drain it dry. Then take off the pans. Replace filter. And fill from the dipstick until it cannot be filled anymore. And to that last question about filling it: should I just fill until dip stick says full. Or should I carefully measure all that comes out of the plug and pan and replace the same amount as what came out.

 

You check it with the engine running, shift it through R N D 2 1 and back letting it sit in each one for a few seconds after filling. While the engine is still running, check fluid. Add as needed.

Dropping the pan and changing the filter is a bit of a pain. Cleaning the gasket sealer off was a PITA. My filter (just a screen that fluid falls through) was absolutely clean after 80k miles FYI. I changed it and was done.

 

It should be checked hot, after driving a few miles, then do what he said. After draining you fill it with a funnel, but err on the low side. Check that it's in the cold range on the dipstick. Then let it warm up by driving a little, recheck using the above procedure and top off until it's in the correct hot range on the dipstick.

Draining doesn't get all the fluid out. Less than half probably, so it takes a few drain and refills to get a good percent of new fluid in. You could just drain and refill the first time to get familiar with it, then leave the filter/screen for a later time, like after another 10-20k miles.

You might want to replace the rubber transmission oil cooler hoses when you service it if the shop didn't replace them when they replaced the radiator. At least check them for cracks. I recommend Gates brand transmission oil cooler hose at NAPA by the foot. Should be 5/16" inner diameter, but not positive.

 

I would definitely try and measure what comes out and put that back in, then see where you're at. It shouldn't be too bad to drop the pan and do the filter, most time spent is cleaning the mating surfaces for the gasket maker.
Drz gives some good info on checking the level as well

 

Thank you all for the advice. Would investment in a small pump help me remove all the fluid or is that a difficult operation barring working out of a real fully-equipped shop? The measuring of the fluid does not sound too difficult to figure out if I measure against what comes out as well. Thanks for the advice JJ, DrZ and 10Ply. I will let you all know how it goes. Hopefully this weekend. It seems straight forward the way you all explain it and a few rewatches of the you-tube videos should help as well.

 

I drained my transmission fluid, installed a transmission cooler and filled it with new Type IV fluid. I didn't change the filter, the dealer suggested that I leave it. Call your dealer service department and ask them about the strainer/filter. My transmission is running smooth and the fluid temp is 30-40 degrees cooler.

 

There are good write-ups here. My approach was pretty simple:

(1) remove pan, clean the "filter" which is really just a mesh strainer, then replace.

(2) disconnect transmission oil cooler line below the radiator.

(3) refill (using something like the cheapo harbor freight fluid pump) to the point where oil overflows out of the inspection port.

(4) put end of cooler hose in a gallon jug, crank engine and run until you have collected about 3 quarts. Stop, empty jug, refill transmission and repeat. You are pumping old fluid out, and putting new fluid in the transmission. There is little mixing except at the torque converter. By the time you have done this for 3 gallons of fluid, you should be seeing what appears to be clean new fluid when you check that jug with old fluid.

(5) refit again, and then go through the transmission fluid level check procedure that is also given here. At that point you are good to go for another 60K miles, which is the official Aisn recommended change interval.

It took me about an hour to do this, start to finish. The harbor freight will pump the fluid into the tranny quickly which speeds this up a lot, and only costs about 8 bucks...

You can find detailed instructions by searching this forum.

 

If I may add my 2 cents. When I purchased my 04 Tacoma with the 3.4L/auto it was very touchy with the throttle. Barely crack the throttle open and the truck would lurch forward. When I checked the fluid it was about a quart over filled. I drained it off and that helped a little. But another thing I noticed was that tranny fluid had a sulfery smell. I purchased a quart of Toyota Type IV fluid recommended by Toyota. The Toyota fluid has no sulfur smell at all. In fact buried in my owners manual says that not using Type IV will ultimately damage the transmission. After a home tranny flush using Type IV my transmission is much improved and acts like a normal automatic transmission.

I know this is a sample of one but I suggest this is not a good place to save money.

 

Clinton

I have the same miles and want to do it also

I am in Los Angeles

Like you not sure I have the ability

But haven't found a good shop yet

Pm me if you want to chat or if we can lend a hand and do it together

 

Hmmm... I was told by a home-visit/mobil mechanic (a guy working out of his car) something similar. He suggested I use cheap gas to flush the vehicle and then buy the dealership fluid. Sounds like the people up top think the Max Life works well and the bottle I checked at O'Reillys the other day did say it worked for Toyota. Does anyone else have an opinion on that and suggest that the Toyota Type IV fluid is an absolute must? I only ask because only one person has mentioned this as of yet. Thank you Bulldogs, Rob Hyatt and BTU this is helping a lot! Tacoma people are the best!

 

I did my a month ago with max life shifts really nice was easy to do . not rocket science people check out some videos .

 

Not at all, in fact, it's probably a good idea to avoid Toyota labeled oils, they likely contract out to the oil companies and the lowest bidder makes their oil so you have no idea what you're getting and the quality involved. Toyota doesn't make their own oil or antifreeze like many car owners think, they use their labeling to try and make more money. It's the reason Ford pushes Motorcraft oil so hard on Ford owners, Motorcraft is owned by Ford so every time you buy a quart of Motorcraft oil, Ford gets paid, even though it's the same stuff that's in a bottle of Conoco Phillips synthetic blend. I haven't seen anyone else push it as hard as Ford has, every oil cap on every car they sell recommends Motorcraft oil, it's insane. Thankfully, Toyota hasn't started pushing "Genuine Toyota" motor oil that bad yet.
Go with something with a good reputation, Valvoline and Pennzoil make exceptional transmission fluids. For the money, they're tough to beat.

 

I just did a drain & fill last month. dropped the pan and changed the filter & gasket. I let it drain for awhile while I did other things (eat & watch football really)

I ended up draining a little over 6.5 quarts in total (with TC total is ~15q). I got Mobil 1 Type IV synthetic ($58 for a case back last year when I bought it) and the filter/gasket for $30 on Amazon.

The fluid was getting brown when I changed it and is now (even after driving) a nice light red color. No pumps or machines needed.

The hardest work was like others mentioned, getting the old gasket crap off. I think I'm a little over the full mark but it has not affected the shifting.