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Transmission Fluid Slow Drip (2012) Question

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by decaye515, Apr 15, 2024.

  1. Apr 15, 2024 at 3:36 PM
    #1
    decaye515

    decaye515 [OP] New Member

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    I have a slow leak on the passenger side of my Tacoma. I’m pretty sure it’s transmission fluid as my other fluid levels haven’t changed and intermittent gear shifting issues went away for a while after I topped up the ATF system. But those issues returned very gradually and I started noticing a leak basically right under the passenger seat. I can’t figure out where the leak might be originating from though, I’ve attached some pictures and was hoping someone might have an idea where it might be coming from if they’ve had similar issues.

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  2. Apr 15, 2024 at 5:38 PM
    #2
    dtaco10

    dtaco10 Well-Known Member

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    That's some nasty rust. Just a guess. If it's an automatic I'd look at the to/from line to the radiator.
    With the rust I'm seeing, you may have other problems you're not seeing.
     
  3. Apr 15, 2024 at 5:43 PM
    #3
    spitdog

    spitdog Well-Known Member

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    That looks like the engine room on a Tug boat.
     
  4. Apr 15, 2024 at 6:12 PM
    #4
    AJwisco

    AJwisco Well-Known Member

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    The transmission lines run right along that side, just get under the passenger side and follow them with your hand, I’m guessing you have a pinhole leak in the hard section before it turns to rubber.
     
  5. Apr 15, 2024 at 6:19 PM
    #5
    Williston

    Williston Well-Known Member

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    New England
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    2014 Tacoma 040 SR5 4x4 DC SB V6 AT5 Tow Pkg Entune+ Mostly stock with a few OEM mods.
    Stock (99.999%) OEM Bed Floor Mat, Front Bed Rail Cargo Net and hooks, Auto-Dim mirror w/Compass and outside Temperature display, TRD Pro Grille, Uni-Filter air pump modification, WeatherTech floor liners f/r. (winter) OEM All-Weather floor mats (summer).
    Agree with the previous folks in previous responses: Seeing the extent of the rust, the first thing I would scrutinize is the metal transmission fluid lines, especially the ones to the auxiliary cooler (if equipped) and the lines to/from the radiator in-tank cooler.

    If they get corroded enough, the metal lines will seep fluid right through the rusty line. If it gets bad enough and one of the pipes cracks, you'll have a catastrophic failure in minutes.
     
  6. Apr 18, 2024 at 10:39 AM
    #6
    decaye515

    decaye515 [OP] New Member

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    Ok solid, that makes sense. I'll get under the truck again and try to find that leak. I (obviously) live in a high-salt province (newfoundland) so rust is a given - would it be beneficial to swap those lines out for a rubber hose or just stick with the OEM system and order and install new metal lines (that will probably rust out again eventually)?
     
  7. Apr 18, 2024 at 6:25 PM
    #7
    AJwisco

    AJwisco Well-Known Member

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    You could run rubber lines from the trans out.. Judy be really careful on your routings.. you could cut the hard lines closer to the transmission where it shouldn’t be as rusted, put a slight flare on the ends to hold the hydraulic oil approved rubber lines in place
     
  8. Apr 23, 2024 at 6:39 AM
    #8
    decaye515

    decaye515 [OP] New Member

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    Just an update in case anyone finds this thread. This thread was super useful in helping me figure out what I needed: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replace-rusted-transmission-cooler-lines.690165/ and this youtube video was a great resource for figuring out what I needed to do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbZROM71yyA. If you're in Canada look into ordering from Toyota Parts Direct or Lines To Go to save some money on lines, my local dealership actually price matched TPD for me so I was able to save money and time. The upper line was the main issue for me - it was bubbling from rust which led to a small pinhole leak. I swapped both lines to since I was doing it though. The hardest part was probably removing that top line connection to the actual transmission since it was rusted in place, I was able to saw off the lower line and use a socket to get it off but on the top I could only fit the wrench - it's a pretty tight space to work in. If you're going to be planning to take these off make sure you put some rust remover/lube on the connection a couple days ahead of time to really help yourself when doing this.
     

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