Transmission Oil Cooler hose pipe leak

I recently noticed my truck (2017 Tacoma 2wd 4 cylinder) was leaking oil and discovered it was coming from a leak just in back of the front bumper near the radiator. I removed the plastic trim and metal skid plates so I could have a better look. I traced the lines so I'm sure it's the transmission oil cooler lines. The problem is corrosion of the metal lines that are clamped to the frame. The metal lines and the rubber further back seem fine.

The way the rubber and metal hoses are connected looks pretty basic so I wonder if it's as straight forward as undoing the 4 hose clamps and installing the new $117 metal tubing? I've read elsewhere that there is a lot of pressure and it's a tricky job. But if it's straightforward what's to say I couldn't replace the metal tube with the right length of flexible tubing connecting hoses with short sections of copper tubing and clamps? It's crazy that the metal would corrode away after 6 years. Seems like a liability and not worth replacing with metal if flexible would work.

This reminds me of driving my old Dodge Dart through the Sierra Nevadas in the early 80's on a one lane dirt road, just exploring and hoping to find a way up and out, and finally pulling out onto a paved road and realizing my transmission had problems. By some miracle we made it to a tiny little one horse town that happened to have a grocery/hardware store. 3 inches of copper pipe and 2 hose clamps plus some atf fluid got us back on the road. We were two lucky 20 year olds.

 

I can't imagine that being a difficult job outside of dealing with the corrosion and possible stuck bolt.. Make sure your replacement line is correct before starting.

 

Thank you. Any thoughts on why the metal tubing is even necessary? I was thinking maybe it's potentially giving off some of the heat in the line, more cooling effect than if it were all flexible tubing.

 

So long as the rubber line you want to use is rated for the oil and pressure, there should be no need for the metal line. It is important to make sure the lines are secured so they don't rub through. Use clamps and zip ties. Very minimal pressure on those lines.

 

the metal tubing is more than likely used due to heat (internal and external), you may have a hard time finding hose that is able to last any significant amount of time with the heat an auto trans creates,,, but maybe someone in the know can elaborate what exactly what those temps are.

Add to that, you are going to have to get an idea of how much pressure this tubing assembly is seeing. It's not going to be easy to adapt to a hose barb and clamp,,, but then the next question will be- can that barb/clamp handle the pressures?


I'd just get your folding-monies out and buy the tube assembly. The rest of the truck will probably rot and die of old age before the next set of tubing does. The hose will not last long at high temps,,, let alone if your end connection fails and leaves you stranded.

 

I decided to bite the bullet and buy the actual part recommended so I've installed the new metal pipes and connected them to the frame and the existing flexible tubing. I did not realize that toyota makes sealed transmissions and there is no dip stick and no way to easily check your fluid level or to add fluid to get it back to the required level.

Edited to add this very useful post in this forum:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-automatic-transmission-fluid-level-check-diy.547455/


I've seen part of this video explaining what seems like a hugely convoluted method that toyota has hit upon. Is this what it's come too or does someone have an amazing work around?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNcecuGzTDg

 

Just curious if you still know the part number you ordered? I have the same problem.