Transmission shudder

I'm pretty sure a lot of you who are experiencing shudder have a bad carrier bearing.

Replace it with a Spicer unit for direct bolt on action which is much better built over the OE unit, or with a little modification buy and fit a polyurethane one from Inland Empire Driveline off a Ford Ranger. These last forever and can withstand just about any abuse you can give them. PN: 211590-1XS

 

this one?
https://www.jegs.com/i/Inland-Empire/537/211590-1XS/10002/-1

also found this one:
https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/s...K3loeuOqHMxT1QBBczuhUiRH0ruy-CrgaAssREALw_wcB

 

That one on JEGS, yes.

Bear in mind that you will have to create a support for the open section of the carrier bearing. You will also need to determine what is your correct driveline angle and space out your carrier bearing to the height needed in order for the new carrier bearing to be vibration free.

 

Got it, I need to play with the angles though I need to read a little bit more about them to understand them. I do have a digital reader but I’m not really sure what to do with it.

 

You can honestly eyeball the angles, it's really easy. The shaft should be mostly straight all the way through. If it looks off like one is slanted and the other one is not you will get vibes.

Just so you get an idea, for me on my DCLB I run the carrier bearing with the part which would be otherwise open prior to installing facing towards the cab, but I have a lift, and the shafts are entirely vibe free at any speed. For you, you may have to invert the carrier bearing assembly with the flat part which would otherwise be open facing the ground and space it out as needed.

 

Hi my name is Brandon and I have a shudder problem (AA introduction haha)

So I just acquired my shudder in the last two weeks. Just having a transmission service should fix the problem that’s what I hear anyways. That being said has anyone used a tuner to prevent any other problems with it. I was told it shudders because Toyota makes the shift points so low for fuel efficiency.

If this has already been discussed I’d appreciate any links to the thread.

 

Did anybody tried for drive in 4th instead of Drive? My shudder goes away when I drive in 4th.

 

Bringing this back from the dead to share my experience. I had a really bad trans shudder/vibration in my auto 4.0 between 25-45mph. I drained the pan and filled with toyota fluid(about 3-4 qts) then added 2 tubes of Lubegard Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fix part#19610 and test drove. I've put 5000 miles on the truck since then and NO MORE SHUDDER/VIBRATIONS! The end.

 

^ I’ll try it. Why did you use 2 tubes instead of one?

 

Hi guys!

I have the same problem but I have a question

When I bought my taco already have 220K miles and the problem started like 8 months ago but I never change the transmission oil since I bought it everyone told me that I can actually damage it as right now I have 390K so my question is can I just add the "Lubegard Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fix" and see if fix the issue or I can still change the oil? And then add the Shudder Fix

Also if I take the truck to the dealer for transmission change they will drain what I have now and fill it again that should do it?

Or to change the tranny oil have to be something more than just drain and fill it?

Thanks so much guys!

 

Start with just a drain and refill of the oil pan then add the Lubegard. Shudder should go away but if it comes back then a torque converter swap is in order. My shudder went away after I added the lubegard but eventually came back no matter what. I replaced the torque converter and the problem is now resolved. With that many miles I would drop the pan and change the trans filter as well.

 

I see yeah good idea change filter too

Also what type of oil I can get best of the best for the tranny also how many quarts need?

Yes I have in the #2 the torque converter
How much was the full cost of the torque converter replacement

Thanks a lot!!

 

It only cost me around $199 for the converter as I did the replacement myself. Got it from these guys www.floridatorqueconverters.com . If you're doing just the pan drain and fill about 3-4 qts of Toyota WS should be enough. 11qts when you replace the converter. I went with Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF when I did the converter.

 

Thanks a lot man very appreciated

Im a little worry in my tranny oil that it may be to black so I'm wondering if I can just drain/fill one quart and add the 2 lubegard and next month do the same third moth same thing then at 6 months do the 3 quarts on one shoot then wait another 6 months and do it again hopefully by that time I will get better oil color

Just wondering bc I bought it with 220K and I don't have record of tranny oil change and I haven't do it and now I have 392K

What will be the safest way

Thanks again!

 

If anyone else can suggest will be very appreciated thanks

 

There are 7 pages of good suggestions in this post .
Order a pan gasket and drop the pan .
Clean the magnets and replace filter .
You can't expect lubegaurd to work with depleted transmission fluid.
Removing the pan changes out half the fluid for new fluid.
To add . I have serviced well over 4000 transmissions . Hundreds with very high mileage .
I have never seen a transmission with high mileage fail because the fluid was replaced in the transmission pan if done properly
This means removing the transmissionn pan to clean the magnets .
I have had transmissions with high mileage develope sticky shift valving .
If you are performing a transmission service , take the pan off and clean the junk out of the pan .
When you introduce new transmission fluid into a dirty transmission pan , the new fluid with super detergents lifts that junk off the pan and forces that junk through the valve body and shift solenoids .
If you clean the junk out of the pan before adding new fluid , you reduce the risk of particles going through your valve body .
spend the 5 bucks on a pan gasket . Take the extra time to do it properly .

 

Sooooo after 10 years & 136 posts discussing this transmission shutter problem, not one person has come to the table with a solid solution/resolution to the issue; other than putting some sort of miracle gout in your transmission?

i’ve been living with this shutter for so many years I’ve lost track of the time. I gave up on dealers a long time ago. Was hoping somebody will come back with a solid discussion on what the actual cause for the problem is and a viable solution.

 

The reason there are soo many different answers is because everybody thinks they have a torque converter shudder .
99 percent of the shudder complaints are caused by a rough running engine .
There are at least 12 different fixes for shudder symptoms and 3 fixes for an actual torque converter shudder depending on the severity of the shudder .
The key to determining if you have an actual converter shudder or just a symptom that feels like a converter shudder is proper diagnostics .