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Transmission slipping

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by BroDameron, Aug 15, 2019.

  1. Sep 23, 2019 at 12:21 PM
    #21
    eon_blue

    eon_blue If I would, could you

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    If the clutch looked good then it might be an issue with the flywheel causing it to slip. Since you're replacing both I'd be curious to know if it still happens when you get your truck back
     
  2. Sep 23, 2019 at 12:25 PM
    #22
    BroDameron

    BroDameron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I certainly hope not... I'm 4 days into a 3 month long road trip.
     
  3. Sep 23, 2019 at 12:26 PM
    #23
    eon_blue

    eon_blue If I would, could you

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    Oh I think I misunderstood then...so you had another clutch/flywheel put in recently and all is well? Or the symptoms are persisting despite the new setup?
     
  4. Sep 23, 2019 at 12:39 PM
    #24
    BroDameron

    BroDameron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No its currently at the mechanic's. I'll get it back this afternoon and hopefully all is well. The mechanic just called me an hour into the fix and mentioned the clutch looked fine and wanted to know if I still wanted it replaced. The previous owner said the clutch was replaced 10k ago and the mechanic confirmed that it looks newly replaced as well. Maybe it was just the flywheel that's the issue, but I don't really have the time to troubleshoot over a few days and lots of labor, just getting them both replaced and hopefully hitting the road this evening with a healthy taco.
     
  5. Sep 23, 2019 at 12:41 PM
    #25
    eon_blue

    eon_blue If I would, could you

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    I see what you mean, yeah hopefully the new parts takes care of it.
     
  6. Sep 24, 2019 at 7:43 AM
    #26
    BroDameron

    BroDameron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So turns out the previous owner did replace the clutch... Backwards. So it still had enough friction to work under normal conditions, but with any load it would slip.

    The slipping has been fixed now, but for whatever reason, now the truck has developed a kinda miss that we think is a stuck fuel injector. In the morning it takes a longer crank, and after being turned off for like 10min after being fully warmed up, cranking is sloppy. Which has probably killed my catalytic converter with unburnt fuel. Which might be stuffing my exhaust because she seems like it's taking more gas to achieve the same acceleration as a week ago.

    Not sure how the problems would have been correlated or if I'm just incredibly unlucky.
     
    DrZ and trance like this.
  7. Sep 24, 2019 at 10:56 AM
    #27
    eon_blue

    eon_blue If I would, could you

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    I had a performance clutch installed backward by a shop a few years ago, except in my case it was toast within a few weeks. Was a nightmare headache and cost me a ton of money to fix. Apparently it's not uncommon for that to happen especially nowadays since shops don't work on manuals very much anymore.
     
  8. Sep 24, 2019 at 11:35 AM
    #28
    BroDameron

    BroDameron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Damn. What made it so costly? (Beyond just getting it replaced)
     
  9. Sep 24, 2019 at 11:40 AM
    #29
    eon_blue

    eon_blue If I would, could you

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    That was pretty much the bulk of it, getting it replaced. I was in a bind and needed my truck working ASAP so I made the mistake of taking it to Toyota. Toyota dealers are notoriously expensive for big jobs like a clutch, and SoCal ones even more so. I got billed almost $3k to have a stock OEM clutch put in (new flywheel, bearings, etc.)

    So $3k + $800 for the botched performance clutch install +$300 for the performance clutch that got ruined, I was out about 4 grand.

    I did confront the initial shop that botched the first clutch job and they begrudgingly reimbursed me for the cost of the performance clutch plus a couple hundred for the install, but they eventually wouldn't budge on giving me the full amount back for the labor. Saying it wasn't entirely their fault for some stupid BS reason I can't recall, and I didn't want to have to fight them on it in a legal battle over a few hundred bucks.

    So all in all about $3200 or so, still stings to think about to this day lol. That was a few years ago

    Never go to a dealership for a clutch job, and make sure you do your homework with independent shops...like they say you get what you pay for.
     
  10. Sep 24, 2019 at 12:29 PM
    #30
    BroDameron

    BroDameron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ouch. Yeah it was 1300 to have the flywheel, clutch, bearings, and a couple seals replaced for me in SLO. Luckily shopped around because the first shop quoted 1700+ I'm just glad to hear it didn't cause harm to other components. But who knows, it's possible this was the cause of my driveshaft failure a couple months ago.
     
  11. Sep 24, 2019 at 2:17 PM
    #31
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    Last clutch I had done 6 months ago cost me 800 from the dealership and I supplied ALL the OEM toyota parts plus the fly wheel resurfaced for 60.00.

    Of course I found the Toyota parts for 1/2 or less then what the dealership wanted.
     
  12. Sep 24, 2019 at 2:35 PM
    #32
    BroDameron

    BroDameron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So like 1100 total with parts and labor?
     
  13. Sep 24, 2019 at 2:40 PM
    #33
    eon_blue

    eon_blue If I would, could you

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    Yeah the dealership near me is notorious for price gouging parts and labor. I went there to get a reman CV axle the other day, every dealership online quoted $122 after the $75 core charge. The one near me wanted $250 for it and they wouldn't come down on the price at all.
     
    1997tacomav6[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Sep 24, 2019 at 3:38 PM
    #34
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    The clutch was yup around that but ended being closer to 1400.00 because I had
    1) the transmission input shaft seal replaced,
    2) the transmission rear output shaft seal replaced
    3) the transfer case shaft seal replaced
    4)The engine rear main seal too replaced

    I figured the transmission is coming out so the added stuff will be cheap to do it now when the transmission is on the bench.
     
  15. Sep 24, 2019 at 3:58 PM
    #35
    BroDameron

    BroDameron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha. Yeah I had those replaced too. Fingers crossed I can use some injector cleaner to get the slight misfire issue sorted next. Worth the $20 to see if that will unstick my (probably) stuck injector
     
    1997tacomav6 likes this.
  16. Sep 25, 2019 at 1:57 AM
    #36
    DrZ

    DrZ Well-Known Member

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  17. Sep 25, 2019 at 2:03 AM
    #37
    DrZ

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    I'm not sure but if one injector were stuck and dumping extra gas in then the ECU would try to lean out the injectors to keep the air/fuel ratio proper based on O2 sensor feedback. It needs to try to keep the proper ratio for the catalytic converter to work. I guess I'm trying to give you hope that the catalytic converter is not toast. You'd want to rule out the ignition system being the problem too before pulling out the injectors.
     
  18. Sep 25, 2019 at 3:45 AM
    #38
    1997tacomav6

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    If you have a scanguage guage type tool, look at your fuel trims
     
  19. Sep 25, 2019 at 7:31 AM
    #39
    BroDameron

    BroDameron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I hope that too, but it honestly sounds like the cat is shredded if you tap on it. Also the plugs and wires are new. So unless the previous owner found a way to put those in backwards as well, they shouldn't be the issue.

    Also the main symptoms are just consistent hiccups basically (every few seconds.) They become more frequent and aggressive when I'm accelerating and it feels down on power a tad.


    I have an OBD2 reader that I haven't used yet that I brought on the trip, so I'll see if I can't get those. But there's no CEL so if my reader can't get the fuel trims I was planning on pulling plugs to see which has fouled more than the rest to find the bad injector.
     
  20. Sep 25, 2019 at 12:07 PM
    #40
    BroDameron

    BroDameron [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So my reader doesn't give me fuel trims, but I do now have a pending code for a misfire in cylinder 3. Fingers crossed that's an easy one to access...
     

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