Trd grey supercharger

I' come pick it up im in cali

 

PM’d

 

Bump

 

What all is needed to install this on a 95 Tacoma?

 

May or may not work afaik - I think you at may need the ecu and wiring harness out of a later truck.
@Blackdawg @1997tacomav6

 

You need an ECU from a 1997 v6 Tacoma up, 1995 and 1996 are not compatible unfortunately, but can be done.
Such a deal!! 100 new horses for somebody with a few mods for 1400.00.



Can I twin supercharger my truck I wonder ???)))) I've heard of twin turbos before.

Also you need the long supercharger bolts for Intake, they are different lengths
Didn't I see this supercharger for sale a month ago or something???

 

Typically when these supercharger are rebuilt by the Magnuson company or a professional shop
the rotor pack plate is replaced and not repainted, the rotor pack plate on this unit looks original still,
So it probably has not been rebuilt as it has the original sticker, original paint and or might just have low miles, hard to say.
When shopping for a supercharger if you see the rotor pack plate not painted that means
it's been rebuilt at some time.
Either way this is probably a great buy as long as it has no bearing issues or nose seal leaking. These superchargers will last a lifetime with little maintenance but will need a complete rebuilt every 150,000 miles.
As with any used part it's always great to be able to have a video of it running before u buy.
New pulley and bolts and gaskets and oil change will be 100-150
and I would have a butt screw added by a machine shop for 50.00
so that u can do an oil change in 5 minutes
Here are the differences, FYI

 

Sell it yet?

 

Not yet. I have a use 2.2 pulley I'll throw in with the right deal

 

I would try on T4R.org (not .com unless you like tranny porn). Had some luck on there as well selling when TW doesn't work out.

 

Sc rebuilt usually, get the rotor pack recoat for tigher clearance.Tigher the more compression =hp, over time rotor clearance open up due to coating coming off or wear. I used to work for a sc company for a few years! Lmao

 

Any good places to get it rebuilt between here and Fresno?

 

Send off to the high speed labs

 

New grey supercharger with all the trimmings
https://www.ebay.com/itm/trd-superc...ash=item3d534383d7:g:6-QAAOSw4aBaKsau&vxp=mtr

 

I would send the rotor pack to any company that are willing to recoat them, but I can tell you it's not cheap! Not sure if other company would take another company sc for rebuilt. The rebuilt anyone can so it's the coating that makes a difference. The high performance sc we built can't be turn by hand! Lmao clearance are so tight it's crazy.

 

Ryan recommended that place to me and I gotta say it looks like a super impressive spot. The only thing is for the price of a rebuild I'll have to find a s/c for $700 or so to hit the price I want to pay, which do come up. Sometimes out here in SoCal you can come up on amazing places that charge cents on the dollar of other places so I figured I'd ask. Case in point - an off road race fabricator would normally charge me $350 for a steering rack rebuild with the the same seals they put on their trucks, but they got too busy to do it and told me where to take it and what to ask for. $150. My jaw dropped. So I like to ask around sometimes, but thanks for the suggestion. High Speed Labs will be where I send a sc if I get it for cheap enough and don't find anywhere cheaper that does top quality work!

 

Thanks Ryan, I definitely trust your word and his work because of it. If the local guy knew somewhere that could do it for a couple hundred less and he knew their quality since he used to do it for work I figured it was worth asking... still hoping I come across a dirt cheap one - I could do all the stuff I've seen on rebuild write ups, but the coating obviously. The truck just has the engine sitting on the motor mounts and has to come back out one more time before everything gets bolted back together so there's no rush - just seeing how I can cut costs with getting an air pump for my... air pump lol

 

Ok cool, John (btw) not Ryan, if you think you can do the clearance setting on the rotor pack.
I know a few people that did the rebuilt but had issues with the rotor pack clearance hitting each other and had to
send in the whole supercharger to have the clearance set correctly.
I don't know how the clearance is set or adjusted.

 

This is a good page for when you get to rebuilding yours

Eaton Supercharger Diagnostic Information
Use this information to diagnose any unusual behavior from your Eaton supercharger. This will hopefully give you an idea of the direction you need to go in. Whether it be to box up your blower and send it in for one of our Rebuild Services. Or...maybe all you need is a new snout seal and an upgraded seal clip or one of our other DIY Eaton Supercharger Rebuild Kits. We even have supercharger oil and new replacement couplers. If you don't find what you need, Contact Us and we will be happy to assist you. Thank you.

Supercharger Diagnosis including Symptoms, Causes, Solutions:

Worn or damaged belt:
Lower or fluctuating boost indicates the belt has been exposed to oil or antifreeze. Replace belt.

Carbon build-up on bores and rotors:
Carbon build-up can cause rotors to rub and drag down, indicated by lower or fluctuating boost levels. To alleviate this situation, select one of our Complete Supercharger Rebuild Services including a re-manufactured Rotor Assembly or Rotor-only Rebuild Services, both of which include rotor and case cleaning. Consider adding on the Optional High-Tech Rotor Coating during the Rotor Assembly rebuild. This is a common problem for Eaton M-Series superchargers that come on 1992 - 2002 GM products.

Leaking seal:
Examine the outside of the snout for oil spots. Oil will sling off the back of the supercharger pulley when the seal is damaged and failing because of normal age and wear or excessive boost. Consider upgrading to a Premium Viton double-lip seal and Rotor Clip Snap-ring for a longer seal life. Our Premium Services & Products include this seal.

Bad bearings:
Remove the supercharger belt and start the vehicle. The vehicle will run on the bypass valve without the supercharger. Is the noise in question is still there? If yes, then it is not coming from the supercharger. If the noise is eliminated by the belt-removal test, the supercharger bearings should be replaced immediately. The car can be driven without the supercharger belt because the bypass valve allows a reduced air stream through to the cylinders. If the supercharger is damaged, temporary deletion of the supercharger will reduce further damage to the supercharger until it can be rebuilt.

Scuffing of the Rotors or the End Plate:
This indicates a worn bearing. The ball bearings in the front bearing plate are the only bearings controlling back and forth movement. When the supercharger is new, it starts with a .003 backlash in the rotors. So when they wear a little and have a .007 backlash, the rotors start to scuff the back of the front bearing plate. Replace with re-manufactured Rotor Assembly.

Coating Peeling or Chipping Off:
As the bearings wear, they start to allow a back and forth movement in the rotors. This changes the timing of the rotors, allowing the flutes to scuff and damage each other. Replace with a re-manufactured Rotor Assembly. If allowed to go on for too long, this linear movement ruins the rotors beyond economical repair.

Worn Coupler (a.k.a. Universal):
Supercharger rattles. To test, remove belt and move the supercharger pulley back and forth by hand. If it has backlash, replace coupler.

Scratches on the outer edge of rotors:
How can you tell the rotor rear needle bearings need to be replaced? Look for scratched ends on the rotors. When the rear needle bearings need to be replaced, the outer edge of the rotor will have scratches from contacting the case. This happens because the rear needle bearings are allowing too much rotor radial movement. The needle bearings only control radial movement.

Scratched Rotor Bearing Plate:
How can you tell the ball bearings in the rotor bearing plate need to be replaced? Look for a scratched rotor bearing plate. The bearings in the rotor bearing plate need to be replaced when the rotors are putting scratches in the rotor bearing plate’s sealing surface.

 

The coating is unbelievable thin, definitely a process getting it applied evenly,
I would be nervous trying to figure out the clearance and timing