TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I also tried the drive like a grandma test to see if I could get my MPGs up, and it was no fun. Great gas mileage. But I'll gladly sacrifice that, and do every day, just to drive the way I do: like I stole the truck.

 

I get around 24-25 driving around like grandma. My recent audio install resulted in some weight reduction so maybe I’ll get a whole 26 mpg now. Took out my spare in favor of a custom sub box, jack, roadside tool kit, stock sub, nav dvd drive, etc. Mid mufflers will come out too depending on how effective all the dynamat I put in is.

 

Without re-calibrating for my gears/tires I get a whopping 13 mpg pretty much all the time. When I tow my trailer around it drops to like 8-9 mpg. Sooner or later I will do the math and see how far off it actually is. I know at about 65mph I am actually going 71-72.

 

Pre-SC with 315's tons of armor, re-geared to 4.56 with Hypertech almost having speedo back to normal I average 12.5. its still slightly off. Hoping the additional power gets me back up. Seems most folks with the SC are getting better mpg than me. My buddy had almost the same truck on 285's e rated KO2 and he got a few more MPGs than me.

 

The stock TRD tune (and even the N/A, to a lesser degree) in '12+ trucks will richen up quite a bit during cruise if you're much higher than 50-60% calculated load (IIRC - don't have the software up) during cruising. The heavy tires, rolling resistance, increased mass from armor will certainly load the motor up more even on slight inclines, and thus commanding a richer mixture.

 

Need to get the part number off of the ECU. Sneak your phone under the dash and snap of picture of it.

 

I had quite the discovery last Thursday. Pulled the intercooler out of the housing to glue the seal back into place that I know was not fully attached. As I did it I noticed that one of the bolts was stripped out. I have noticed that ever since I installed the supercharger I have had a wet/oily area right above that bolt. When I installed it, I did so with a friend that was a master tech so I never thought anything of checking to see if anything was overtightened. But I am thinking it had to have been. So as I reassembled it I ran a very small bead of FIPG around the outside edge. Then on the tightening part two more stripped out just trying to get it down and compress the FIPG. So I have 3 bolts that are stripped on the housing of the s/c. Then towing my camper this weekend to Dillion, MT. I got myself an amazing 5.6mpg and could not get more than 1.2lbs of boost and that was just for a very short instant. So I think I know why I have never had the boost numbers that the others have, even at the same elevation. I am pretty sure I have been bleeding off the boost for a very long time. And I can say that I really like boost, cause towing without boost is very expensive! 92 miles to a tank of gas.

I am planning on replacing the plenum gasket also just in case I have have had a good seal on the bottom side of the charger. And then I am going to helicoil the stripped bolt holes. Does anyone see anything wrong with this plan? Would love to hear some feedback. Also the 3 bolts are the top front 3 all in a row. The FIPG did hold for about 15 seconds getting on the interstate and got up to 4.4lbs of boost. More than I have ever seen here at this elevation. Also could explain the poor mpg's, the a/f sensors not lasting and the P0101 code that trips after about every long boost run while towing, and the fact that even towing I hang on 0.0 vacuum/boost for a really long time and would only go to boost if I basically floored it. Maybe? Does any of this make sense to anyone else? Am I making it all up because I want this to the be answer to it all? Thanks for reading and I look forward to hearing your feedback on this lovely little issue I have. Cheers.

 

This is why it pays to use a torque wrench. If your bolts are stripped the oring can’t seal and it’ll never hold pressure.

 

Literally fixing those same issues now. I have had stripped bolts on the intercooler lid for years (bought the blower used, years ago) and have re-sealed since then, a couple times, with gasket maker. It has held for the most part, but recently during some other troubleshooting (disappearing s/c coolant).. I went to remove the lid again, and between the stripped out bolts, and now stuck gasket maker, I am in the process of having a shop remove the lid and fix the stripped bolts. I mentioned Helicoils to him as well, which he said would work, but they had similar inserts that were supposedly better. Symptoms are the same as yours. Hoping to get it into the shop this week, once I slap the pulley's back on.

 

Need to fix mine too with inserts @BillDaCat8 let me know about

 

I bet they are the same ones they were going to use. I forgot the name he mentioned.

I'm hoping once its torn apart its just the O-Ring creating my leak and not the intercooler itself.

 

I tried getting the lid off, and could not for the life of me separate it. Was worried of further damage trying to remove it, so just figured I'd leave it to the experts and while its there, get some other stuff fixed and improved, get it dyno'd, hopefully dyno this new pulley, and then get a HP Tune Dyno day on it.

 

If you think of what this other method of fixing it is, please let me know. Or @BillDaCat8 , if you get on and know what they are called, that would be great, as I am planning on ordering stuff tomorrow. I still haven't pulled a bolt to check the size and thread, but just guessing it is M6x1.25 because Toyota loves that size.

 

Helicoils @mr.trd @XPOTRPR

 

Was he talking about time-serts?



(long time lurker waiting until I can afford a blower..)

 

Time serts are a great product. Race teams will preemptively install these in aluminum parts that are frequently disassembled and reassembled.

They come in kits. You drill out the aluminum threads, tap, then screw in the steel sert (that kind of looks like a pipe fitting reducer) along with an anaerobic glue, then you run another specially designed tap that spreads the fitting open for a snug interference fit.
I helped do an entire Buell race engine. Tedious.
Far superior to helicoils

 

I installed helicoils on almost all the bolts on top of my inner cooler. And they have lasted me over 10 years and no problems. Plus they can hold way more torque than the soft aluminum specs.

Sure time serts are great too

 

You run the ucon right?

 

Beat me to it. I agree that time serts are far superior to helicoils. Have them on my dirt bike, that I beat the piss out of and they haven't failed yet.

 

running helicoils on my intercooler too as one stripped on me.