TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Full build while I’m in there. I’m not pulling the motor again. What valve springs to go with tho? I was looking st lc and they had some good for 10,000 rpms. Over kill but would be nice to spin it to 7000-8000 rpms what u think? I no u don’t rev that high. But it should be able to hold it.

 

That's nuts. I have never seen a 1GR bend a valve either. Of course anything is possible when it comes to engines but that's really odd.

 

Did you buy cams? I don't remember.

 

No. I’m on the fence about it.

 

Well then get a set of springs that will allow the future potential. Whatever the guys bought for the camshafts from Kelford. I am sure that @BillDaCat8 or @mightytacoman could post up that part number for you.

 

Is anyone in here running a 2.3 with the stock s/c tensioner and a 69" belt? I have a roush installed right now, but the belt alignment is not how very good on the tensioner idler. Need some time to figure out the best way to fix that and would like to run the stock tensioner in the meantime. Thoughts?

 

I couldn’t tell ya......but if you find that you need to unload the Roush, let me know provided that it wouldn’t give me the same issue with a stock belt,2.7, and the JFR pulley wrap.....

 

im waiting to do this for that very reason. is the tensioner arm too close to other parts? or is it how the belt sits on the tensioner pulley itself?

 

do you have the 50mm double roller? or stock pulley on the roush?

 

What length bolt did you need to go with the double bearing idler? Im thinking about getting one of these and installing the idler the wrong way so i can have more pulley for the belt to ride on. All of my other idlers line up great, its just a misalignment caused by my Roush tensioner. Currently my belt is riding off of the tensioner idler about an 1/8"

 

Stock pulley on the roush, just pulled the tensioner assembly off again to get more pics

 

Also, does it matter that the double bearing idler is a 50mm vs the stock 54.5mm? @White lightning boosted

 

Anybody have a part number for this pulley and know where I can find it? Starting to make a bunch of noise

 

Its probably the bearing that needs to be replaced. I just did mine today. I used timken instead of the NSK that was in there

6303-2RSC3 - Timken Deep Groove Radial Ball Bearings - 17x47x14mm

https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/63032rsc3-timken-deep-groove-radial-ball-bearings-17x47x14mm/

 

The pulley can only be installed one way to prevent misalignment. If you run it the wrong way you will run into misalignment issues and potentially hit something as well in the rotating assembly.

Yes you have to source your own bolt and washer.

Yes it matters to an extent on Roush tensioners. You must shave off some aluminum material all around to prevent the pulley from rubbing on the tensioner as it rotates. The snap clip must always face you as you look at the tensioner and the bolt.

 

What will the pulley get into if i run it backwards? It looks like if i flip it around and run it with the snap ring facing normally, that my belt will be even further off the pulley

 

How do you swap the bearing? Is there just a C-clip holding it in?

 

Yes sir, c-clip holds it in and you can use a 14 mm socket and a hammer to get the old one out. I used the old bearing on top of the new one when tapping the new one in. Worked pretty good

 

You are going to have to space the pulley if there is some misalignment until it is correct. More so the reason why you should run a double bearing roller on it. It's a little more work to run it, but it is ultimately worth it in the end.

 

i would NOT run a belt partially off a pulley. i have the 50mm as sourced by others here. just make sure you do a little grinding so everything is happy.