TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I have a squeak that is originating from my accessory serpentine belt, I gotta replace that and I got a replacement Toyota belt ready to go for that. Gotta put some grease my NST crank dampner pulley while I'm in there, my Delta Joints when I get them hopefully on Monday, and then my OE headlight replacements will be here tomorrow.

Projects.

 

Life will be my deciding factor in motor replacement choice when it comes. Really I don’t see a need for much more than 500whp so a sc 5.7 should be manageable to keep it Toyota. Then again for a similar price I could probably pull 800-1k hp from a LS based platform.

 

Come take a ride in the “race truck” and see what noises are “normal”

 

Yeah but how much more retrofit and Fab will you need to do in order to fit that in? Everything will need changing from cooling system to transmission... Then again I'm sure there are adapters for the bellhousing they sell. I'm sure Hinson makes retrofit engine mounts too for engine swap LS projects too. You have many options open but yeah, life is always a huge deciding factor.

 

I've come to HATE noises. This truck is chock full of them so I am trying to eliminate as many of them as I can.

 

$5-10k was the best damn mod I ever did to this truck and was buying a dd. It’s smooth, quiet, heated damn seats lol. That said I love my damn truck as slow as it is in comparison to one’s like yours. Whiskey is wearing off and it’s damn tomorrow where I’m at and have side jobs to pay for parts in the morning. Stay boosted my peeps

 

Hey all! Hope your all well. Just having a thought, is it possible to put on a smaller crank pulley that runs the sc? I just stuck my head down for a look and wondered if it was possible. Or is it just not possible due to belt tensioner and room for where the belt runs? Your thoughts?

 

Yes, it has been discussed. We looked at a larger crank pulley but there are some immediate clearance issues. You have to go bigger not smaller if you want more boost though.

 

i respect the desire to keep toyota running gear despite it costing more. we all realize cost effective left this group long ago.

 

Yep, this right here. ^^^

It takes too much effort to go bigger given that we already have options available to us to do higher boost while negating slip I personally don't see a need for going with a larger crank pulley and complicating things down the road with the potential of having to go with random not often sold bearings for their respective required replacement idler pulleys.

 

Alright, I'm dumb. I messed something up while attempting to wire my Boost gauge late last night. It is lit, but not functioning properly (i.e. measuring boost or dimming) I ran the red and pink to an add a fuse in the ignition spot, a ground, and the gray wire from the gauge to green wire with the white stripe for the temp control beneath the radio.

The dimming is weird and isn't behaving how it should. Should I be utilizing the solid Green 12v wire somehow? The switch seems to be pulsing brighter to darker when I'm in drive (yet when in park is solid, and does not vary).

ALSO, the boost needle isn't moving. I went straight from the Boost port on the SC to the sensor and did not utilize the supplied "T".


Can anyone tell me where my mistake is (other than being an idiot trying to do stuff)? Before starting the project I tried to search for relevant threads and keep getting lead back here. Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

sound deadening, loud audio, burly exhaust, windows half down is my solution.

 

i have aem. cant quite remember but i dont think i connected any fany dimming lights, or uego controller wires. just the basics. things work fine.

 

I mean 500whp in these trucks would be amazing. And I think that is a very achievable number with the 5.7 tundra motor platform while keeping it very Toyota reliable. Plus everyone and their grandma does an LS swap. This said I hope I don’t have to deal with this decision and project for at least a few years to come.

 

same here. as much of a hp whore i be i realize over 500 would turn our drivetrain into recylcing material in no time. keeping things all toyota/lexus would keep my ocd at bay.

 

Someone who gets my kind of mileage. I was just at 168 miles when I gassed, but I do gas up at 1/4 of a tank. Not sure what the gas light looks like as I try to never let it get below 1/4 of a tank. But doing the math, if I can get between 180 and 200 miles on a "tank" I am where I have been for the last 8 years (most of the time). Towing (6500-7500 lbs) in a heavy head wind or going up hill the whole time I get about 100 miles a tank. Towing normally, not a direct fast head wind and just running 65-70 up the mountain passes I can get 140-170 miles a tank. And I know that I have never been able to go a whole tank without some good boosting. So to know what kind of mileage I would get if I could drive like a "normal" person for a whole tank is completely unknown. And speaking of boost, Tuesday night, wow was the truck running good! Temp was in the mid 30's, half a tank of gas, no extra weight, yeah my son and I had some fun. And I hit 4.2lbs of boost! Yeah buddy. Oh to know the joy of this 8lbs and above that you speak of! LOL

 

Just to clarify, your red (constant 12v) and pink (ign switched 12v) are going to two separate tap fuses?

Do the temp control lights dim? I honestly don't remember but if they don't that could be a reason for the light output problem.

No idea on the sensor routing as I don't have a boost gauge.

 

your mileage is on par for the duty you ask of the truck. low gears, heavy hauling, big tires. takes a certain amount of fuel to move that weight. a full size wont do much different in mileage. might be easier on the rig.

 

The red and pink go to the same fuse (the instructions specified that was ok, but the gauge needle would zero out upon each start prior to reading boost levels).

I found a thread that specified the temp controls have a dimmer:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dimmer-for-boost-gauge.483822/

Still curious why the boost won't read though?

 

Ok since were talking about gauges. I thinking installing AFR gauges. My question is do you need to run two gauge or one? If can can do it which side of imagine should i monitor?