TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

ive been trying to think how to do that for some time. no bright ideas yet. just hesitant about chopping it. josh at afe wouldnt make a new version when i asked.

 

I bet with all the adapter options there would be an existing option without hacking anything. With a flex coupler like below we could allow for some wiggle room/ non standard dimensions.

 

How are you recalibrating the MAF? is @JustDSM modifying an HP Tune for you when you do it?

@findingthingsout , I would imaging that would cause additional unwanted air turbulence

 

Oh boy, look at the Pandora's box I opened up. Lol.

Those douchers won't sell parts individually for some reason. I mean, I sort of get it, like you are sold X amount of parts to assemble X amount of kits and you can't just break it up like that, but still. If you guys make the parts why can't you sell them individually?

The accordion style coupler on the latest gen TRD intake cannot be sold on its own. You must buy the kit if you want it. I know because I checked already.

Yes Justin recalibrates the MAF for the larger tube for you and then makes small scaling tweaks after you send him a log or two.

 

I have both and can tell you. The only part I see is the TRD box is longer than the AFE so that could be an issue. That or you need a longer coupler to make up for it.

 

sooooo I finally had time to make room in the garage and start getting the Taco in and prepped to tear down (removing front plate bumper to help with install of pullies as well as install a lightbar) and start yanking pullies.. and as I getting parked (super tight fit in the garage, no more than an inch of clearance front and back) I heard some BS noise coming from the engine. rattling, clanking.. something loose or sayin see-ya. crawled under and luckily all the skids are off, and could see not only my crank pulley running out like a sonofabitch, but also oil running down and out of the crank bolt...

killed the truck and finished getting it in the garage manually.. I'm assuming my crank bolt finally worked itself loose after I slapped it back together months and months ago when I was modeling up the s/c crank pulley. ya dummy.. This just happened right now too.. and I've been driving it alot, hard too. Daily Driver, boostin around.. a lot, wheeling and camping, ever since I originally got it all back together. Guess the truck decided it was finally time for pullies and told me right then and there. lol sure hope it didnt open the damn hole up runnin out like that.. what say you guys?

 

The AFE momentum GT coupler fits on the tundra 76mm TB. I gotta get Justin some logs.

 

oh brother!

 

pretty much my exact reaction when I saw it.. lol

 

true. thats the setup i have. that tube is 2.86" i wanted to incorporate a 3.5" intake i have. its mating it to that oval opening is puzzling for me. justin will make a sweet tune for sure.

 

This was from this morning. Pulled the tranny, installed the CM TOB, clutch, and lightweight flywheel, then got the tranny remounted this afternoon. Gonna bleed the clutch tomorrow.

 

Please don’t use those rock sliders on real rocks. Sorry, recently rebuilt mine after bending the crap out of them last summer. Those won’t last long under abuse.

 

Oh shit...

The oil pump runs off the crank pulley and everything definitely has to be tight otherwise you will lose all oil pressure.

I hope you didn't damage the engine internally otherwise you will be doing a full rebuild just like @o0opackersfano0o ... What worries me is that you heard clanking.

 

Ive had my cm tob in for a week or so and have been very happy with it!

 

As long as the pulley was still in the key way no issues. Hopefully he just heard the bolt backing out and bouncing around. The crank is obviously not going anywhere and if the main serp belt stayed on then all should be good. Trying to stay positive, I know that sucks. I mocked up a wheel one time for a new axle and then a week later ran on down the highway. I watched the lug nuts fly off in my rear view mirror. Thankfully I was already in a parking lot at about 10 MPH, but I felt like a jackass. It was on a trailer I was towing.

 

The crank pulley has some room for in and out movement on the key. If the bolt didn't back out too much, then all should be fine. You'll know quickly by inspecting the crank pulley upon removal. If that keyway is deformed.

Politely, I'd like to make an adjustment to your comment. The oil pump gears are held in place in the timing cover. They are engaged by a pair of flat notches on the crank. Actually what the crank pulley butts up to. The pulley does not turn the oil pump. So there is no worry there. Oil pressure could be lowered until lost if that seal were wiped out though.

 

Thanks Guys, I think I caught it in time. It literally must have happened right then and there. The previous week I had just did a once over before a camp trip, so Im thankful it let go at home and not out there. No CELs, oil level is fine. Hoping its just loose and leaking from the seal.. I'll find out this weekend.

 

What are your thoughts on why these wont last? Built them myself... always open to suggestion on how to improve them. It's all DOM tubing.

 

glad things are looking better case senerio at this point.

 

going to guess cuz lack of support bars between inner and outer tube