TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

As for the louvers go I was monitoring IAT’s this afternoon on my way home. In similar ambient temps and driving style pre-moving the filter and pre-louvers I was seeing 125-130* IAT’s. Today they were down to 95-100* and stuck there until speeds dropped below 35mph or so. Did reach 120* sitting idling waiting for a train but dropped right back down as soon as I started moving.

 

Any reports on experience? Will be needing similar when I catless headers and y pipe show up. She gonna be stinky.

 

looks nice. expensive too. tells me they are probably worth buying. thanks!

 

i have (a) vibrant cat. mine stinks

 

E85

 

and 103 octane to boot

 

I’ve got 2. Kinda stinks but better than catless.

Vibrant no longer has the rights to those GESi cats I think but others sell them. Kooks has them marketed as “green” cats I believe.

 

i just go faster. today 75*, water temp pre intercooler 83*. moderate freeway driving (spirited) stayed that way. engine temps between 179-185, no a/c used. glycol in motor, water in s/c system. im able to get rid of heat quicker with a free exhaust, the methanol sequence isnt bad either. help you compare.
@12TRDTacoma

 

Today I hit 407.2 grams/ sec or 53.86 lbs/ min at the MAF during gmy latest HPTuner log... The most I have ever recorded and seen coming out of (or rather into) this truck..

Idle is absolutely glass smooth everything seems much happier. I like where I'm at with the new "coolant" and the Ruthenium plugs. I think I'll keep it and experiment longer as the truck really seems to like it as well.

 

I prefer catless but I at least need one of my vehicles (the daily tacoma or the eventual new daily) to at least be somewhat legal. I was thinking of getting afe headers but after seeing the reports on here of blowing out the cats makes me not want to deal with that, plus I'm not sure about the material. these would be cool for two shortie header deal or one large cat in the catback.

 

What rpm did you hit those maf numbers at?

 

I’m not going to get into the details of this out in the open, but the numbers reported are not indicative of actual airflow through the motor.

I’ll let Roberto explain if he wishes.

 

I picked up the gm diode today to test, and sure enough the gauge is working on warm starts also.

I wanted to test before I ordered the HBK fused diode.

I am running an AGM battery hopefully this will help keep it charged. I always thought it was because I did not drive the truck enough.

 

Yes the AFE ones are garbage. I have vibrant highflows on DT shorties and love em.

 

I don’t know any facts on what Robert is running, but calibrating my MAF in HPTuner can basically read out whatever g/s you want according to the amount of voltage input to keep the wire heated. There would have to be a complete baseline reset back to a known baseline, could be stock or not, each time in order determine airflow variances of a different intake. This is also somewhat skewed if you adjust the MAF size or diameter inlet of the MAF housing.

 

You're absolutely right. That's why there's little point to "bench racing" MAF numbers.

But for quick sanity check to validate if the numbers are even meaningful, is to measure the fueling error present at a given MAF voltage (g/sec value). There's more to the picture than this, but generally speaking, if you're commanded fuel value is matched by your observed value, your MAF calibration is probably on point.

 

Apparently there has been a long withstanding issue where Justin is running out of fueling and has been throwing the kitchen sink at my tune in order to try and satisfy my fueling needs. He says he cannot exceed I think it was 12.0 or 12.1 AFR for some reason.

I just checked fueling tonight to see how well my fuel pump was pumping out fuel and at idle with the FPR mod hooked up I was seeing 34-35 PSI @ idle (normal for FPR mod) and reversing the FPR mod I am seeing 42-43 PSI @ idle. When giving the blue turd some juice under boost on WOT stabs I was seeing anywhere from 58-60 PSI. That tells me fueling is up to par and okay at this time. So Justin mentioned either it's going to be a hardware or a software issue. Technically speaking I do have my 2012 PCM still and I need to reverse all that so I can properly disable some items maybe I can do a PCM swap and reverse some other stuff I have disabled to rule out software issues.

 

If the pressures are just from free revving, that’s not going to really tell much.

You need to put the pump under sustained load. We need to verify under operating conditions.

 

Sounds like I gotta hit the shop tomorrow and take this thing on a spin.

I was afraid you would need more than my quick check.

Out of curiosity, when did you notice this issue start happening?

And another thought, is COTP turned off still? Maybe I need it after all as you mentioned?

Just blindly spitballing here.

 

It's too bad there isn't a better way to provide auxiliary cooling when moving slowly. Seems like adding supplemental pusher electric fan would be another failure point and the engine bay is so cluttered who knows how much cooling you could actually do.

FYI, I think you can get more cooling with a few more vents. Plenty of room on that hood and it already has a set of holes, what's a few more. (NM, pic is from an ih8mud thread)