TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Looks like he took it even further than before.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/one-ton-master-cylinder-adapter-kit.553689/

 

i would seach swap meets, offer up, or CL to fine an old industrious unit made in the usa.

 

I just had to smog my junker today and despite all the mods it passed stellar no problem.

Today is a good day.

 

That’s two years of unsupervised tinkering.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/my-2006-tacoma-brake-upgrade-edited.652471/

Booster bolts in, but have to lengthen the push rod clevis. I found a completely bolt in spacer on ebay that made the tundra identically as long as the tacoma was. The master has output ports on the other side though, and might have different thread diameter depending on what year your truck is. So an adapter brake line is needed to connect.

My install went off without a hitch, had the parts ready, bolted it in and bled the brakes. Much improved.

 

No kidding. Though I'll be long gone out of this state before my next smog check.

 

Saving this link for later. Thanks!

 

https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/single-and-dual-diaphragm-boosters

Quoting from there:

Single vs. Dual Diaphragm Power Boosters
Whether you choose a single or dual diaphragm booster depends on how much brake assist your vehicle needs. A dual diaphragm offers the most assist, and is ideal on an all-disc system or a disc-drum combination. If you want to keep your vehicle’s four-wheel drum system, then a single diaphragm booster would be ideal. In this instance, too much of a brake assist would make your brakes too touchy and send you lurching forward every time you engage the brakes.

Booster Size
Power booster size can range from 7” up to 11” in both single and dual diaphragm types. Your booster size choice is often determined by how much room is available inside the vehicle, as determined by hood clearance, valve cover, and engine block size.

How to Choose the Right Power Booster
When in doubt, go with the largest diameter size that will comfortably fit your vehicle. Larger diameters and dual diaphragms generally offer more assist.

With disc brake conversions, we recommend going with a dual diaphragm and as much diameter size as will fit the space.

With all-drum systems, you can’t go wrong with either a single diaphragm booster or a small diameter dual diaphragm booster to give you the right amount of assist without making it uncomfortably touchy.

Power boosters simply make driving your car easier and more enjoyable. Remember, when it comes to selecting a power booster for your vehicle, consider your brake type setup and size of space available in your car. Always go with the maximum amount of booster that will comfortably fit.

 

#metoo

 

I don't know who has a ATRAC truck and who does not. With exceptions, the trd sport has a standard booster and the off road has the specialized master cylinder with electronic booster. If you have an ATRAC truck, you need not participate in the booster discussion, your brakes work much differently and the tundra upgrade does not apply.

I have the trd sport, and always felt my brakes sucked. Not horrible for just mild slowing and such, but completely inadequate for panic stops, at least on my heavy, lifted, larger tire truck. I did the 4 runner brake upgrade, but wasn't very happy with the difference from tacoma. The booster/master upgrade from tundra or sequoia are identical, and did wonders when I put it in. Even though the pedal feels slightly spongy, and I may need to pay a shop to bleed the brakes using the computer, the truck stops hard now, where I can hear the tires start to scuff/howl with what I consider light pedal pressure. I think a rear disc conversion would be even better. Going to look into the SOS rear disc adapter kit.

 

With rear disk and master upgraded w/the stock front disk my truck feels much more safer. Honestly it feels like this is how it should have felt like from the factory. I would say do it.

 

Word on the street is a 5th gen 4Runner with atrac master cylinder/ booster will work for the tacomas with atrac that want to upgrade. Problem is it is quite an expensive system.

Or, get a real front locker and don’t worry about abs and atrac anymore and do the tundra mc upgrade

 

TRD sport here. I’ve upgraded the fronts to the 4Runner stuff and it definitely helped, but I think this booster/master cylinder upgrade would be it even better.

 

If you aren't impressed with the change after you do it, I'll be very surprised. Just have the ability to extend the pushrod, and the ability to adapt to your existing brake lines with the new master.

I was able to pull out, and install the new booster with the master still connected and pushed out of the way (sucked fluid out of reservoir though). Then I installed lines on my new master, and used rubber to loop back to the reservoir, secured with tape. Bench bled it in a vice by cycling it a bunch of times till I saw no air. was able to install the master onto the booster this way, so at this point not a single drop of fluid leaked. Then with rags underneath, disconnected old master and got it out of the way. Bent lines to line up close, and with care, pulled off the rubber line and started the threads on the dripping brake lines and had the line wrench nearby to get it slightly past finger tight on both connections, one at a time. Got myself completely dirty, but was able to do it without spilling any brake fluid on the truck. Bled the brakes twice, the second time I installed speed bleeders and got a bunch of air out because you can pump more fluid more quickly, forcing all those bubbles downward against their will. I am curious if a computer controlled bleed would get anything else out.

I'm quite sure my spongy feeling is due to having no residual check valve in the rear lines (although actually I'm not sure if the tacoma master did). The drum brake springs push back on the fluid more than disk, and they need more fluid to be pushed into them before they engage compared to disc.

 

Whats the recommended torque value for these little guys? Also, are y’all putting a dab of blue locktite on them?

 

I've tightened them with that supplied Allen wrench until I see the end of the Allen starting to flex while the belt is on. Never had an issue with bolts self loosening before doing it that way. Matter of fact the bolts stayed in place so long when I had the 2.3 on that I ended up hearing the confident snapping sound (no sarcasm) when time came to break them loose.

 

Blue lock tight maybe a good thing. I tightened my down till some Allen flex. But one was loose a couple weeks later.

 

I did, to eliminate Murphy L. who seems to follow me around like a little brother, but not in a good way.

 

Apparently results may vary.

I've never been a huge proponent of loctite unless I feel that it is for some reason needed. Blue is a great happy medium between some holding power and nothing at all. If it makes you sleep better at night toss on a small dab on each screw @loginfailed .