TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I am open to suggestions and setups. I would like something very robust that would be mostly maintenance free. Something that would fit in our current setups which have large tanks which would also have easy access to filling the main tank.

This is one arena I am not well educated on.. so please school me boys!

 

Anyone running Snow's stage 4 controller?

 

I almost feel like that is too sophisticated for what it is we are attempting to accomplish here.

For the money, I feel that AEMs water injection setup may be the better buy here, as it has a dial adjustable boost controller. Nothing digital or overly fancy. Just effective input.

 

I just dyno'ed my truck a few weeks ago. 305HP/ 328 TQ to the wheel with all of my mods on a 2.8 pulley. A 2.7 pulley is the blowers sweetspot.

These blowers require a pretty good sized amount of work if you even want to ATTEMPT to scratch the surface of 400HP.

 

So you stepped back up to a 2.8 after running the 2.3 for awhile, if I recall?

I've got about 8,000 posts to read through but curious how the kelford cams have worked out. That was the last major group buy I saw before I logged off

 

A lot of people haven't installed them yet to be honest.

I swapped back from the 2.3 to the 2.8 now down to a 2.7 as of yesterday. The 2.7 rides the efficiency and RPM limits of the MP90 blower while maintaining 48% efficiency on the compressor map. The TRD blower comes stock 50% efficient direct from Magnuson on the 3.0 pulley, so a 2% drop down in efficiency for the extra power that a .3" drop-down in pulley size makes is a great compromise in my book.

 

@JacksonTacoma

 

Same price and has better software (supposedly)

https://torqbyte.com/collections/products/products/cm5-lts-water-methanol-injection-controller

If you have no need for progressive you could go full el cheapo with this (full on/off)

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/water-injection-parts/1-adjustable-pressure-switch.html

For water cooling purposes though I could see a use for progressive. The AEM kit should work fine. Snow stage 2 or 2.5 would be good too.

 

It's going to be a toss up between the Snow Performance Stage 2 VC-20 or the AEM kit for me. The on- off stage 1 kit is too aggressive and would be good if I only lived at the track, bt since it's a daily I would want some variety in spray aggressiveness depending on boost.

 

Stage 2.5 is dual nozzle capable if you ever want to spray meth in the future. Could have a second nozzle come on at peak boost.

 

Anybody running a S&B Intake? Just looking into different options other than what is on pg1

 

I have read of a few different issues with aem when I was first looking into methanol. Pump failures, cracked tanks and controller failures.

I haven't heard of any real issues with snow and meth injection is practically all they do so personally I think they are a better choice.

 

Interesting. I wonder if this is a limitation of the small intake neck of the blower or the compressors themselves being designed for lower rpms than the smaller pullies we've all been running.

I'm still on a 2.5 pulley with 2.3 sitting on the bench along with my larger MAF housing. I dynoed somewhere around 315- 320whp with 2.7 on rich TRD and OVtunes, but with my mods now I'm guessing I'm at least 350whp based on seat of the pants from that last dyno. That's after adding URD headers, jfr y-pipe, 3 inch exhaust,650 FICs, cam gears and hptuner. Seems like 400whp is still on the table maybe with some meth injection, cams and full tuning, including correcting the maf

 

I'm a little bit more inclined to say that it is due to the compressors themselves being designed to run on lower RPMs more than anything.

I think the JFR Y is your biggest power adder out of all that stuff. Water/ meth injection would be another one to net you stellar results as well. It's hard to say if 400HP is on the table on any of these trucks without doing some other heavy duty modifications. At least to the wheels.

 

New hood is finally painted. Going to be interesting tying it in with the new airbox.

 

A real functioning hood skewp!

I suggest after ballpark measurements creatively using foam and chalk dust to figure out what hits what with the hood closed.

 

So I am on the deep dive fast learn with this. I am interested in the potential for low end/low power efficiency gains, overall engine heat load reduction, and higher load power gains.

My early life background was in steam plants and steam/gas turbine power generation. Water has a relatively high specific heat capacity, or how much energy is required to change its temperature, for reference:
Water = 4180 Joules/Kg Deg C
Methonal = 2140 J/Kg Deg C
Gasoline = 2220 J/Kg Deg C

So it requires nearly twice the energy to change an equal amount of water by one degree.

In combustion, while the Gas and meth burn, water requires additional heat, latent heat of vaporization, to phase change from liquid to steam. That's another 2230 kJ/kg (not a typo, kilo-joules) of heat absorption. So that is where significant cooling comes from, the heat is captured by the water for its temperature and phase change.

Add to this, when water goes through its phase change from liquid to steam, for a given pressure it expands to ~1000 times its previous volume. In the fixed volume of a cylinder, that is just additional force to drive a piston, possibly adding some level of efficiency (less fuel needed for same output) when your foot isn't buried in the pedal and top end power when it is.

Aside from being easy to find, this is why water/steam is used in in boiler steam-turbine plants. It has an enormous capacity to capture and transfer heat/energy.

This was also why I was thinking along the lines of cutting or reducing the fueling for cat protection under "heavy" load. We would need a way to rig in an RTD or thermocouple upstream of the cats to pull actual temp data on load runs. Being non-flammable the octane rating is near infinite for detonation prevention, also allowing leaner AFR than without water/meth (if you trust your system to not dropout and end up blowing your engine...)

 

If you are capable of running leaner, then what that tells me is that you can probably clean up running AFR at WOT to 12.5 or even higher under WOT while injecting water. That being said you would have to have a serious method of monitoring water level while running this way, because if you don't and you end up making a WOT run without your water injection, there is a chance of going BOOM.

 

Yep. Running low on mix, or a clogged injector, or a pumps that craps out....

Looks a 1 gallon tank last an average driver 500-1500 miles, so... stop it off at the fill up.

 

Ditto on the stage 4. I'm leaning towards the snow stage 3 for the ease of use and the on-board gauge