TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

haha yah I called them out and they ignored it. really not a drop in.

 

how much?

 

ha yah that would do it. Still riding motorcycles still one of the biggest rushes.

 

I would let it go for $320 I guess. This is starting to be much more expensive to go to the e-fan than the radiator. LOL Maybe I should look into this farther. But let me know if your serious. Also, doing some more research and I just came across COLD-CASE Aluminum Radiators. Anyone seen these? Kinda look like they may be a knock off of the CSF?

 

I already have one (with FJ shroud and coolant tank), but my friend with a 2010 FJ and Magnuson blower may be interested.

 

That being said, do I just say screw it and get the shroud. Is the Tacoma one, that much better being dual core versus the FJ single core?

 

If you're thinking about the electric fan, I'm not sure if/how it would work with the thicker CSF, let alone the different sized FJ one…

 

That is true, but I am sure there are lots of people that already have the CSF of either sort that are jumping onto the e fan ship right now. I don't think it will make much of a difference really. I am just trying to decide what route is the best route for me and in what order. It seems when I have time to install the radiator it is in the winter and I don't need the cooling so I put it off. In fact a better functioning radiator might not be good in the winter. In the winter my trans temp rarely goes over 100 as is. LOL Maybe need to reroute the trans to not go through the radiator or put in the trans thermostat I have on the shelf too. I have too many irons in the fire. LOL

 

@MESO already did it. Still saves room.

 

so much want for this part. yet...so many to have installed. im in if theres a round deux.

 

Should be fine it mounts inside the shroud so plenty of room.we shall see. I’m On the the list and have a CSF Tacoma version.

 

Ah yes I forgot he got the Tacoma CSF. More room left than with clutch fan.

 

Question for you guys about the 170 degree thermostat that URD offers. Is it, in addition to opening at a lower temperature, also higher-flow than stock when fully open?

 

I dont believe it is higher flow than stock but idont have any data to prove so. I say this because i think the stat that URD provides is a run of the mill type that you can find at autozone and if it did flow more than stock, Gadget would have hyped it as such.

I also want to add that i am using his 170deg kit but my coolant temp reads 185 on my UG when its at operating temps.

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction on a few questions? I was told this was fully rebuilt (but no receipts). No other hardware for installation. my questions are:

1. What is this worth?
2. Where could one go about getting the hardware to installing?

 

1. Not sure what it's worth. I can tell you I'd probably pay $4000 for it, since that's about what a rebuild of my own unit would cost me.
2. I'm not sure you can get the fit kits any more. I could send you a PDF of the contents of a fit kit though, and you could potentially piece everything together yourself.

Edit, I'd also ask if he did any upgrades like a ceramic coating on rotors or porting.

 

Further to that, without receipts, I'd either want to take it apart to check the condition, or have him ask the vendor for another copy of the receipts. That should totally be possible if he did get it rebuilt.

 

There is no such thing as a "high flow" thermostat. They provide as much flow to the engine once open as necessary when it reaches a certain designated temperature by design but just because it opens at 170* does not mean it has reached it's fully open position. That simply means it has opened and allowed coolant to begin flowing more freely through the block. The majority of thermostats usually allow 10-20 more degrees of temperature raise before they are fully open. This, however, does not mean the amount I indicated which raises above open temperature will not continue to rise as the engine sees hotter external temperatures or more severe workload duties like towing or wheeling.

Example: I have a 160* thermostat. I usually see nominal temps of 167-172 while driving, but during hotter days typically 80* out or higher I can see as high as 188-192 while driving. An item like the supercharger which is a heat convector raises the nominal temps above that which NA would usually be at just based on the simple fact that it's generating additional heat at any given point.

I hope somewhere in my incoherent rambling I made sense.

 

Yep makes sense, thanks. I was aware that a thermostat opens progressively up to a max at about 200 degrees (at least this is what my car does, I've never seen that high in my truck). Was just curious if performance thermostats are higher-flow AT that max point at 200 degrees, or wherever the max is.

I was also thinking that a thermostat that opens "wider" probably wouldn't make a difference anyway, because the fluid losses throughout all the other components of the system is the limiting factor, not the thermostat itself.

 

Silence!