TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Did you tell OV your mods and he tailored a tune?

 

Welcome to the club!
An incorrectly adjusted bypass valve will cause low boost.
How hard is it to gain access to view the butterfly?

 

Thanks! Even though I'm not sure if everything is right it still feels a lot better than N/A. There's no way in hell you could see the thing without a borescope, which I have and haven't tried. But I did scoot the mount to both extremes of it's adjustment and it didn't seem to make a difference. But I haven't tried adjusting the set screw for the stop (which seems like it just controls the fully open position)

 

On the v6 superchargers the stop screw adjusts the closed position. I would think they are all the same.
Keep in mind the bypass valve will be closed when engine is off. Its opened by vacuum.
Without looking at the butterfly you can still adjust it by sound. Dont adjust it too far or the stop screw could fall out.
I never messed with the main mount bolts but I imagine it has to do something for adjustment. Make sure you get that adjusted correctly first!
This adjustment is with engine off.
First manually open the butterfly and let it spring back quickly. Note the sound.
To adjust the butterfly stop screw, turn it the screw in whatever direction allows the stop lever to move more, probably counter clockwise. Turn the screw 1/4 turn or so (make sure you count the number of turns you do so you have a means for going back if required) and repeat sound test. When the butterfly fully closes against the supercharger it will make a different sound. IIRC you hear a tink sound when the screw is hitting the stop and a less distinct sound when the butterfly fully closes.
When you hear the sound change, turn the stop screw the other way until you hear the tink sound again. Then turn the screw another 1/8 to 1/4 in to prevent the butterfly from getting stuck in the bypass port.
Hope this makes sense!

 

I was told y'all were pretty knowledgeable on our superchargers, 1st or 2nd gen. My supercharger is still pissing me off. Not sure what it's supposed to respond like seeing as I've never driven in anyone else's supercharged truck, but the low end doesn't seem like it picked too much compared to the top end. From idle-3.75k it seems marginal over stock. From 3.75-red line it's a whole different beast. Starts screaming, ass end sits down and the front lifts up. It's like hitting boost with a turbo. I've already checked for the bypass valve restrictor. I had to replace the entire bypass valve and I put in new hose in as well and never saw the restrictor.

 

The restrictor is most likely in the bypass valve right where the vacuum line connects to it.
See the post above for bypass valve adjustment.
We need to know more info about your setup.
What engine?
Do you have a boost/vacuum gauge?
What tune do you have?
What supercharger pulley size?
Did you just install the sc?
Why did you have to replace the bypass valve?
Etc, etc.....
The more info you can provide, the more accurate diagnosis that can be provided.

 

I realize you're dealing with two of us novice SC owners now haha but I followed your instructions to adjust the bypass valve and I'm not sure if it had any effect. While out and about today I saw a single peak of 5psi on a pull up to 5k rpm. But for the most part it seems to be staying pretty low, like to hover around 3-4. How much can intake piping affect the boost level?

 

Let's see..

5vz with 1st gen blower
Yes
I have the URD 7th injector with my own very generous fuel map with some timing pulled on the high end.
2.2 inch pulley
It was installed like 2k miles ago
Replaced bypass valve trying to find an awful whistling that was found to be the TB being not torqued down.
Does NOT have the dynamic tensioner

 

It can be huge! Blowers dont like inlet restriction. How is your air filter? Is the rest of your intake restrictive?

 

I'm not familiar with that particular engine or supercharger so not sure how much I can help but I'll give it a shot.

Is this a new condition or has it always been this way? Maybe this is normal for your configuration?

Are you getting good boost at lower rpm's?
Is timing retarded in lower rpm range?

 

I've been constantly ironing out problems with this setup haha. @Speedytech7 helped me actually get it running and I've been improving from there. This is the most power it's had but I feel like it should have more in the low end. I'm assuming the timing is retarded in the lower range. I don't wanna try and add more fuel in the low end with how generous the map already is. On the scanguage timing should ideally be around 20 degrees correct?

 

Timing advance will vary according to many factors. I have no idea on your engine. What are your afr's?

 

AFR in open goes below 11.9 and that's as far as the scanguage will see. Closed is 14.5-14.7

 

Scangauge.. i wouldnt trust it.

 

Just basic stock tubing, two resonators hanging off the pipes but nothing in any of the pipes. Biggest physical blockage would be the air filter and maf id think. I swapped air filters out to a shitty (but likely more free flowing) K&N unit but that really didn't seem to do anything.

 

Nothing you can do about tubing size at the mat. If you increase diameter at the maf you will throw it off. You might want to clean the maf though. On the 1gr engines many many stories of people using oiled filters which leave oil on the maf and jacking things up. The fix is clean the maf and change filter to non oil type.

 

I just dont know the characteristics of that engine so I dont know if it's normal to have the power characteristics you have.

 

Get and AFR gauge for certain. AEM is the easiest to install.

When you are at low RPM and floor it, does the AFR instantly peg 11.5?

Does your S/C have an intercooler?

 

I'm not expecting it to plaster me to my seat. My issue is that it shouldn't feel like a turboed setup. I've ridden and drove several of my buddies turboed rides and that's what it seems pretty close to.

 

I'm waiting on money for one lol. Low rpm.. well it sounds like the truck chokes and bucks for a second and all sound from the engine stops. When I'm monitoring the loop status and the AFR, closed loop drops to around 14 flat and then when it transitions to open it drops to below 11.9. As for an intercooler, no. I have the 7th injector kit with a generous fuel map. I had to add a lot to get it to stop the cough/buck I was explaining earlier. I'm planning on adding water injection and maybe even water/meth if I can actually find a place to get methanol around here.