TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You added a second tap? I bet the -30 mix works better. More alcohol.

 

This is sort of indirectly supercharger related. It has probably been covered before but here are a few pics. I swapped out the oil filler neck with one from a Tundra. This gives a little more clearance to remove and install the oil cap.

Part numbers:
12196-38010 Tundra oil filler tube seal
12185-38011 Tundra oil filler tube
PTR04-12108-02 TRD oil cap

The Tundra filler neck is nice and short compared the the Tacoma one.


The Tundra filler neck has a deflector made into the bottom. The Tacoma one doesn’t. I’m not sure if it matters one way or the other, but I used a coping saw and cut it off.

Before


After


Finished comparison. Before:


After. The oil cap bling wasn’t necessary for the swap, but I accidentally? added it to my cart.

 

I will be adding a tap to the washer tank, need to look at some videos to do it right

 

Wouldn't uncertain fuel distribution of the 7th injector be an additional disadvantage of having it?

 

How is the distribution uncertain? It is sprayed in the intake tract well before the rotors so by the time the air/fuel from the 7th makes it past the rotors I am sure the mixture is a nice homogenous vapor.

 

@Torspd @Roostfactor Here is the pic of the timing map

 

As well as this. I have the bottom one.

 

Sorry man I cant help you with this one. I have no experience with it.

 

All good. I was just showing I had the maps correct. I have an interesting theory on my timing. I have about 3/4 of a tank left. I'm going to go to a gas station that carries VP 110 unleaded and try mixing 2-3 gallons. Should put me at 94-95. If I get my timing back, I may have to invest in water meth after all.

 

Your timing map is different than the stock map I got from URD. Yours looks more like the way he says to do it in the U Tune guide.

 

I did this a long time ago. Also helps with keeping the condensation buildup under the cap down alot

 

Yeah both stock maps my truck didn't like

 

To be clear, those positive numbers signify 'adding' timing? Or 'pulling' timing?

 

Those are degrees of timing pulled.

 

Unless the guide lied to me that's degrees of pulled timing. And just to clarify from earlier, it only does the -5 thing when I have to downshift going wot. If I'm in the gear I go wot in and don't have to shift it will drop to 11 and climb from there

 

are you saying swapping to the tundra filler helps, or cutting off the baffle under the filler is what helps?

 

Are you in California? How many miles does your truck have? Which grade fuel do you use?

 

I agree... The distribution is fine once it runs through the rotors especially at 10 psi. The thing to keep in mind is puddling at the throttle body for the lower boosted like under 8/9 psi. Cause higher max boost the better window you have to spray in the upper Lbs of psi and therefore have less puddling. I think the ideal place to spray would be at the first 90* turn on our blowers. I think being further away from the MAF and throttle body the better. I’m curious about this aem maf controller to spray. Even though boost controllers are simple they are not always exact every time they spray.

 

Yes but it's an Arizona truck. Just broke 180k miles, and she takes whatever is highest at the pump. Minus race fuel of course lol.

 

Alright. Next questions. When last did you change your fuel filter?

How much boost does it make again?

What size injectors does it have?

Has the fuel pump been upgraded?